• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Sansui SP-200 speakers

I agree you can save the most by using a npe cap for the woofer crossover shunt .
I am not so sure that the quality of that cap has no effect on the sound or signal seen by the woofer. Maybe less so than if it was in series but it will effect the signal seen by the woofer.
 
I agree you can save the most by using a npe cap for the woofer crossover shunt .
I am not so sure that the quality of that cap has no effect on the sound or signal seen by the woofer. Maybe less so than if it was in series but it will effect the signal seen by the woofer.
So I finally got the Caps that rkgren1 showed me and I opened up the SP200’s. Oddly enough their SN’’s are far enough apart they have completely different Coils on the crossovers and slightly different cap values. 2 vs 2.2, 3 vs 3.3 and 24 vs 22.

SP200 S/N: 91806031?
2uf =~3.7uf, 3uf =~4.4uf, 8uf=~13.4uf and 24uf =~30.4uf. Her is pic before and after recap with the 3 & 24 being 2 in parallel. I also cleaned and lubed the switch contacts.
upload_2018-5-16_19-57-57.jpeg
upload_2018-5-16_19-58-45.jpeg

SP200 S/N 918069808:
2.2 =~2.25, 3.3 =~7.2, 8 =~10.4 and 22 =~34.3.
Before
upload_2018-5-16_20-5-23.jpeg
After:
upload_2018-5-16_20-6-56.jpeg

The older one with exact match on original caps definitely got better sound. Tighter bass for sure and a bit better definition (for lack of better description).

But the higher SN one did not gain any improvement and may in fact have less bass response then before. Quite muted compared to the other one. But I’m thinking it had this issue prior to the recap. Does anyone think the 24uf bs the 22uf that was in it would make any difference? They didn’t looki like high end caps to begin with. Any thoughts on what I can do to “wake up” this woofer?
Thanks, JD
 

Attachments

  • upload_2018-5-16_20-6-0.jpeg
    upload_2018-5-16_20-6-0.jpeg
    106.4 KB · Views: 10
Doubt if caps are the issue. The caps are not directly in the signal path for the woofer. My feeling is there's some condition issue with that woofer--maybe the surrounds stiffer or something. A config change on woofer construction in the higher number unit might have resulted in surrounds that didn't age as well. Or the bad unit may have spent more time in more traumatic conditions, like a very hot attic or something. Likewise, it may have suffered coil damage at some point.
 
Doubt if caps are the issue. The caps are not directly in the signal path for the woofer. My feeling is there's some condition issue with that woofer--maybe the surrounds stiffer or something. A config change on woofer construction in the higher number unit might have resulted in surrounds that didn't age as well. Or the bad unit may have spent more time in more traumatic conditions, like a very hot attic or something. Likewise, it may have suffered coil damage at some point.
Thanks for the input, yea both these surrounds are very stiff. But are fully intact. Some kind of treated material (not rubber) with no flaking or rot evident. Just very firm with Very little deflection if push evenly on the cones lightly. The one with less bass output is just slightly more rigid. Is that enough to make a difference? The better one can move about 1mm with slight force and the worse one takes slightly more force. The better one just sounds better all around just more noticeable in the base. If no remedy I think may have to pass these on or try to find a crossover of the same vintage as to better one.
 
Make sure all your drivers are working. The tweets on these are vulnerable. Listen to each through a paper towel tube to isolate.
 
Sounds like a plan, apologies in advance to the neighbors. :rockon::rant:
Running them with my 2050B with Pandora on Chill House with Loudness on and Bass cranked up on low volume.
Edit: hooked up my Signal Generator to AUX I n and set to 20hz. Running at high Bass and low volume. Gets a nice vibration on the speakers. Will leave that for several hours today.

DrBiggles, I read some of your threads on this subject from 2016. I’m wondering if an application of Toluene would loosen up and restore flexibility? Or will it just go back as was once it drys? Or should attempt to remove old substance and apply something to provide flexibility.
 
Last edited:
Well that didn’t take but about 20min to develop a buzz in the woofer. Pulled it out and don’t see any separation of spider and buzz only happens on heavy base notes. Seems to be from under dust cap.
I’m guessing the voice coil is rubbing. I can hold the cone steady and still get the buzz with the bass tones. Does not seem to diminish if try to push come o e way or another. Guess I’ll pop the cap and have a look. Any other suggestions? I’m a bit of a novice at speaker issues although have successfully replaced surrounds in my Marantz HD 77’s. Any direction is appreciated.
JD
 
I have a pair of Sansui SP-3500 speakers I picked up about a year ago at the thrift store for 60 bucks and they sound amazing. I'm not handy with a soldering iron nor do I understand audio electronics so very reluctant to try a recap. One speaker was missing logo so order a replacement and need to replace the grill cloth. I feel that might be a job I can handle.
 
I have a pair of Sansui SP-3500 speakers I picked up about a year ago at the thrift store for 60 bucks and they sound amazing. I'm not handy with a soldering iron nor do I understand audio electronics so very reluctant to try a recap. One speaker was missing logo so order a replacement and need to replace the grill cloth. I feel that might be a job I can handle.
The recap was easy but yes soldering skills come in handy.
 
Hey man,

Did you try rotating the woofer 180 degrees and try again? These Sansui woofers are notorious for stiffening surrounds. AK member doctorolds and I were working on a solution years ago. I think he actually did try the toluene to loosen up the surrounds a bit, with success. Not sure if he resealed them or not. It's not necessary to reseal though, they're ported speakers and don't rely on sealing the cabinet.

Biggles
 
Well that didn’t take but about 20min to develop a buzz in the woofer. Pulled it out and don’t see any separation of spider and buzz only happens on heavy base notes. Seems to be from under dust cap.
I’m guessing the voice coil is rubbing. I can hold the cone steady and still get the buzz with the bass tones. Does not seem to diminish if try to push come o e way or another. Guess I’ll pop the cap and have a look. Any other suggestions? I’m a bit of a novice at speaker issues although have successfully replaced surrounds in my Marantz HD 77’s. Any direction is appreciated.
JD
Another likely source of such a buzz in vintage speakers is a signal wire coming unglued where it passes through the cone. You'll have to sacrifice the dust cap to find out though.
 
Another likely source of such a buzz in vintage speakers is a signal wire coming unglued where it passes through the cone. You'll have to sacrifice the dust cap to find out though.
Here is pic looking directly down the VC. I see a wire up top. Should I attempt to push it back around the coil? Could this be my issue?
The cone seems centered On the VC. I can her a very faint tic when push down on the cone like it may be rubbing the wire.
upload_2018-5-19_11-22-24.jpeg
DonQuixote99: here is zoom on the signal wires. Looks intact.
upload_2018-5-19_11-24-15.jpeg
 
I did not try the 180 rotation, but can do that. The wires are soldered to the speaker connections So was a bit reluctant unless required. But can do that if above is not the problem.
I did get some better movement with several applications of Xylene to the cloth surrounds. Did seem to loosen them up a bit. That and the 20hz that I realized was probably not such a great idea. Hope did not destroy them. Spider is good. All glue looks great.
 
That loose wire is definitely causing a problem. The voicecoil wire is on the outside of the coil former tube , so not sure what it could be. If it is from the voicecoil your speaker is not long for this world anyway. I might try to gently lift it out, maybe it’s not connected. It will rub in the gap and break soon anyway.

I guess it is possible the coil is wound on the inside of the former, but not likely.
 
Last edited:
Well, if you were lucky it was going to be the signal wires.

That wire you see belongs on the voice coil, of course, and it got pushed there by rubbing events. Don't think rotating anything is going to cure your buzz. Test by just turning the whole speaker upside down for a while, if you want. But as a practical matter, I think the only path to restoration here will be a good woofer out of another SP-200.
 
I would be very careful using a solvent to loosen the suspension and over exercising the speaker( long excursions) I did that once and ruined a good woofer. Just use the loudness button or bass control and play it normally . Mine have all come around that way .
 
Back
Top Bottom