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Sansui Throne

mrdeckmonkey

New Member
My first post, no I didn't introduce myself but I've been a long time lurker... Like years. I've gone from a basic system with my first turntable to a full on system I'm intending to restore on this thread with documentation. In this thread I intend to document the restoration of a CA-3000, 2 BA-3000s(used as monoblocks) and a TU-9900 and a couple surprises up my sleeve. I'm not normally one to brag but I do understand this is a rare set up and one that many would give a lot to have. I look forward to your inputs as I've only restored a marantz for a buddy of mine in the past.

My background is similar work professionally with the Navy working on communication and navigation equipment so I'm not a total newb to this but I know this is a big task.

I pieced together this system from eBay over the course of 2 years/2 deployments and many work trips. I got the first BA and the CA 3000 from grand children who's grandparents passed away. The preamp produces a electronic burning smell which I haven't investigated yet. The amp seemed the easiest to start with so Im digging into it first. I bought all the capacitor restore kits from eBay from the hifiaudio store. So far so good so if the owner is here, props to you!

Anyways, I'll be posting pics as I go, hopefully you guys enjoy!
 
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The first BA-3000. Glue hasn't been too much of a hassle, it's just been scrapping off with an orange wood stick. The unit has been gone through in the past, and the tech didn't clean up too well. We'll fix that though. First two boards done, more to come. If you guys want higher res photos, let me know!
 

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Hi,

Welcome to the club, you might want to also refer to numerous posting at audiokarma where many have done restorations on those models. There is a Sansui section
 
@mrdeckmonkey , yes welcome.

As for the infamous Sansui glue, you can try to moisten the glue first with IPA soaked Q-tip. Let the IPA soak in a bit and it will soften up the glue. Makes it easier to remove. Good to hear you are using a wooden stick to pry it loose.
a screw driver blade will eventually scratch the top board surface if used, so a wooden dowel piece is a better choice.
 
Yeah I definitely forgot about the Sansui thread. If someone wants to move this, that's fine.

@mcgjohn , thanks for that tip.

I encountered something questionable today doing the power protector card F-2511. Seems someone put a cap in a resistor spot. Anyone seen this before?
 

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Alright, I got the rest of the boards all replaced with their caps for the first BA-3000. I ran into some more problems though. I think it was the right side DC offset could only be adjusted down to 1mA which is still in spec, and forward bias could only be adjusted down to 29ish mA. I flipped the unit around and noticed that the meters were almost pegged out to the right and wouldn't adjust lower. I dropped their adjustable resistors as low as they could go, checked the plugs to make sure I didn't do something backwards and found nothing wrong with my work so I continued on to see how audio sounded and got through a whole record, it sounded great! Switched to casual Bluetooth listening and when I did, the VU meters started working as they were supposed to but then the left channel audio became distorted pretty badly. I think the problem is something related to a transistor somewhere performing poorly when hot. Just weird it happened right after switching the source. I tried bypassing the pre amp and reversing the rca inputs. Problem persists with the left side. Pots were cleaned really well and no scratchy sounds through the speakers when rotated. The degraded audio persisted for the rest of the day after waiting for it to cool a couple times. Firing it up the next day, so far it sounds good. I'm puzzled. The VU meters continue to operate properly although the left seems a bit more excited than the right side.
 
I decided I was content for now with my first BA-3000 for now. I went through Lee stereos resto and ordered all new transistors and some other goodies to throw at this thing. It's definitely a great piece to listen to. The second BA-3000 has a sizzling sound through the left speaker. I went to adjust the DC offset which was way off and then went to adjust the forward bias and am noticing some big differences here... I'm not sure if this is a tech or if these models changed so much that the boards were reconfigured. Your looking at the top right. It's missing two boards that extend horizontally from the bottom of the F-2512 board. The service manual doesn't reflect this second BA-3000. They for sure added fused lines. What do you guys think?
 

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Yeah I definitely forgot about the Sansui thread. If someone wants to move this, that's fine.
@mcgjohn , thanks for that tip.
I encountered something questionable today doing the power protector card F-2511. Seems someone put a cap in a resistor spot. Anyone seen this before?
It is not unknown in Sansui gear, however it is always worth questioning things like this, especially with a picture as you have done, as the 'hive mind' of AK often has answers for such questions. ;)
 
I encountered something questionable today doing the power protector card F-2511. Seems someone put a cap in a resistor spot. Anyone seen this before?
The capacitor is not shown on the PCB/ parts list section of the service manual but is identified on the schematic as C905 10µF 50V, fitted in place of R22. It is factory fitted, possibly as 10µF 25V, between the base of TR04 and ground. You might find that there are other factory variations on F-2511 as well.
 
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Thanks for the tips guys! No concern there then. I'll show you what is a concern though... So as of now one BA-3000 is recapped, the other one I got working but still needs to be gone through. The CA-3000 hasn't turned on since I got it though. I finally pulled it apart today and it looks like some resistors took some serious heat here. On their way out the PCB was also damaged so we got some major surgery to do here.
 

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The capacitor is not shown on the PCB/ parts list section of the service manual but is identified on the schematic as C905 10µF 50V, fitted in place of R22. It is factory fitted, possibly as 10µF 25V, between the base of TR04 and ground. You might find that there are other factory variations on F-2511 as well.

Also, it is not uncommon for the C905 (10uF /50V) capacitor to be installed on the solder side of the F-2511 board; nevertheless, the replacement can be installed on the component side.

F-2511 C905.jpg

F-2511 Original2.jpg

F-2511 Restored2.jpg
Pictures originally posted here: https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...ade-of-a-sansui-ba-3000.974952/#post-15127347
 
Lee! Thanks for chiming in. I actually have been studying your restores and ordered all the transistors based on your restore. What diodes were you using? Wasn't sure what rating they should be.
 
Realistically any of them. Not sure how you can decifer what diode is required. In your posts you said you replaced the diodes in board a b or c but i wasn't sure how you gauged the rating of them.
 
I’m back boys! Two deployments later, and a divorce… but you know what? I got to keep all the stereo equipment and tools! Im back on my feet and even have a lovely new girl who enjoys the stereo. Unfortunately, so much time has passed and with everything in storage, some of the vintage gear isn’t happy. But that’s alright, just motivation to get it going again! I have a beer pong table set up going through the CA-3000. As I dug in, the memories of it not working and why started to come back. I wanted to do an initial testing but with the damage it had, it wouldn’t turn on and I didn’t want to risk burning up more components as I dug into why. I ended up breaking my cardinal rule of one card at a time and test and just tore it all apart. So first up, the power supply board, which had 3 blown resistors and a bad capacitor with a bubbled top, I think we know why this wouldn’t turn on. Also, several torn eyelets on the underside from the heat. I did the best I could with the equipment and consumables I have and everything works in theory using a multimeter. Closely following Lee’s restore so thanks for the detailed post Lee!
 

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So all the boards have now been gone through. I got it all back together last night and I got it to turn on for the first time since I’ve had it! I got the dc bias good to go too. Going to try to give a listen tonight. I do need some help identifying where the phono ground terminal wire goes. It’s that black wire hanging down in the pictures. I’d assume it’d go to the phono card or something but I can’t tell. From other photos online it seems like it routes under the input board but for the life of me I can’t determine where it is supposed to connect to. Anybody have any tips or clues?
 

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Ok I’ve got some updates. Some unfortunate lessons learned, and some information that most of you can probably use. I posted in another thread out of frustration with this system. These units are getting up in age and it’s hard to know what’s actually working and what isn’t. Where I left off was a CA-3000 with a weak right channel, a BA-3000 (#1) being used as a mono block that would cut out after about five minutes, and a second BA-3000 (#2) that had a lot of static at start-up.

I’ll start with the bad news. I sourced all of these units over time specifically to be 120v. Unfortunately BA-3000 #1 had been rewired at some point in its life, probably by the crummy tech that left a sticker on the back from Ohio. Lesson learned here is that even if your Sansui powers on, you absolutely need to verify the transformer wiring, especially if it’s a multivoltage unit!!!!!!!!!! When this amp recently started having trouble turning on, an output driver failed and took the right channel output transistors with it. I replaced the outputs and drivers, but the amp continued blowing resistors on the main power board from excessive current draw. When I compared voltages to BA-3000 #2, they were completely different, so I’m confident in my call on the transformer. That amp is now off to the side and I honestly don’t know what I’m going to do with it. Part of me wants to keep it for parts to keep BA-3000 #2 going long term, but I’m still undecided.

The second BA-3000 remains untouched internally and was working great aside from the static at start-up.

The biggest headway was made on the CA-3000. Originally every wire in the unit had been soldered directly to their connector pins, and yes, some in the wrong spots from someone else. I’m guessing a previous tech stole all the original connectors. Over the course of a couple months I pretty much purged eBay of Sansui connectors at a great cost lol, but it was absolutely worth it from a serviceability standpoint. This unit ended up having a couple different issues that was fixed through trial and error. All the troubled resistors that you guys talk about were replaced for longevity and every capacitor replaced. I re-flowed all the through holes, but the right channel was still weak. On top of that, if any meter was selected, there was severe static introduced into the signal path.

The first problem turned out to be on the meter board. The original TA7136P meter amp ICs were replaced with NJM2068D op-amps using BrownDog SOIC-8 to DIP-8 adapters (BrownDog 970601). Once those were installed, all of the meter-related static disappeared completely and all meters began operating identically and silently. No more noise being injected into the circuit just from selecting a meter.

I have no doubt that my second Sansui BA-3000 is suffering from the same meter IC issues. Do yourselves a favor and buy a handful of these ICs for the future. They are literally drop-in if you can solder.

The second problem was the HA24N reed relay, which ended up being the source of the weak right channel. Specifically for CA-3000 owners, if you know your meters are adjusted correctly and you still hear an audible difference in output, the output meter select is monitoring the signal just before this relay. If your meters read perfectly but your audio does not, you can be pretty confident in what it is and not even have to use an oscilloscope.

Now replacing the original HA24N, I installed a Standex-Meder 9007-05-00 reed relay (5V SPST) using a simple adapter setup. The relay itself is a Standex-Meder 9007-05-00, mounted on a DIP-8 style adapter to match the original footprint, with standard 0.1-inch pin spacing. No PCB traces were cut and no board modifications were required. Once installed, the right channel immediately returned to normal and the left channel also improved noticeably in depth and clarity. The improvement was big enough that I’m now considering replacing the HA24N reed relay used in the phono selector as well but that will require loosing the adapter plate and I'm sure it will fit due to height. The replacement drops cleanly into the Sansui board and made the sound return to as good as ever!

As an update to my system, I’ve also been trying out some new speakers. I went to a couple of high-end audio stores and, to be honest, I would stack this Sansui gear against all of it. If you’re a Sansui fan, it’s as good as, if not better than, the three or four $50,000 systems I listened to. If you're not, good stay that way;) I trialed a set of Wharfedale Super Lintons for about two months and a pair of Revival Audio Atalante 5s. The Super Lintons were returned. They were great, just not on the same level. This did present a problem though, these speakers are a 4 ohm load, which the BA-3000s aren’t quite happy with.

With the loss of BA-3000 #1, I mourned the loss with an upgrade to a BA-5000. It’s a 100v unit that I thought could be rewired to 120v, but it turns out it’s an early variant without that option. I picked up a proper step-down transformer and I cannot describe how happy I am with this setup. If you have not experienced a ba-5000 but have a ba-3000, it is without a doubt a next level. Opening up the BA-5000, the engineering is definitely a few steps above the BA-3000 to say the least.

I’ve got a couple more upgrades coming once the base system is fully ironed out. If you made it this far, thanks for reading and happy listening. If you find yourself in a similar situation with the meter ICs or reed relay issues and want more details, feel free to shoot me a message. There wasn't too much support from a technical level here so happy to help!!! I'm just not an avid forum user anymore.

There's defiantly more to come here with a BA-5000 restoration coming soon(parts in the mail) and some stuff I know is not well documented as far as rarity is concerned......(Sansui tube to be a teaser!!!!!!)
 
While I'm in a chatty mood, I'll share how I got into Sansui. In the Navy, stationed in Whidbey Island, I did a lot of volunteer work. I helped clear an estate for a deceased wife to one of the local thrift stores. And there it was. Some black unit that I had never heard of... I had a completely modern setup. If you're interested in knowing, I can find the models but to my ear, they all sound the same. I didn't feel quite right asking in the moment, dropping off some dead woman's stuff to buy a stereo unit... So I waited patiently until the next day. I went upstairs to the room where they filter incoming stuff. They told me the unit had not been tested yet, I said thats Ok, I dont mind if it works or not. She was frustrated and we had a back and forth and I just killed her with kindness. I explained the situation and how I saw the unit and she finally folded and said fine out of frustration, I'll jut throw on a price of $10. To be honest I would have paid more but at this point I had zero clue to what it was. I just always liked stereo's and wanted it regardless of how it sounded. She handed it to me and to be honest, this was the first piece of vintage gear I had handled. I couldn't believe how heavy it was... I took it downstairs to the register and the older lady said, "oh I just remember when everyone had to have one of these... Now everyone is getting rid of them! But luckily for you it's 50% off. " The unit was marked for $10... I got a Sanui AU-717 for $5. I brought it home and had to go through with DEOXIT because it sounded horrible. But afterwords... I sold every bit of modern equipment I had for vintage. I dont think I would do that if I had no confidence. Over time I bought the tools to do the testing of it. The equipment as taught me a lot that I didnt learn from work and to be honest, it has been very forgiving of my mistakes. Also of note, if you aren't familiar with repair of these units... Use ChatGPT. It can read schematics and give you a general starting point. Right now I started a "project" labeled The Stereo and periodically, I update it with issues I've had and I have it keeping track of my units by model and repairs. It's even keeping a running account for the purpose of creating a memoire for my kids, which aren't born yetXD, but it's all there for me to reference and for them to find one day. It is the only way I would have found the modern replacement for the reed relay and IC chip replacement! So if you find yourself in a similar situation, use it or reach out. Whatever helps keep these out of the garbage bin. They are truly better in every percievable way.
 
Alright, after enjoying the new BA-5000 for a bit the right VU meter stated to peg out so I unplugged them and finally got some time to dig into it. It took me a while to figure out the autoformers. I learned that the thing draws crazy watts if you don’t have the audio signal wire connected to the driver boards. So if you’re restoring one of these, mae sure that those two wire connectors are in. I started with a generic recap kit from hifi audio made for the BA-5000 and recapped the whole thing and it sounded great! I replaced the troublesome transistors in the predriver board and driver board. I also replaced the output transistors with modern day replacements, I kept the originals in a safe spot to to preserve them. I want this to be a reliable daily driver which is why I made that decision. But it was bothering me that the kit was missing some stuff so I started doing some research and pretty much did another full recap. I used Panasonic caps for anything power related, nichicon gold and black for audio path, and Wimas in appropriate areas. That honestly made a huge difference from before for some reason. And to experiment some more, I wanted to see what would happen if I just replaced ever single capacitor on the board, even the ceramics so I replaced them all with polypropylene or COG rated caps and that’s where the biggest change to sound stage and imaging happened for my setup. It was such a difference that it’s having me itch to go through the CA-3000 again. Another interesting thing I noticed was that through each revision, the bias would have to be adjusted down which I found to be quite interesting even though everything was replaced with exact speck.
 

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