s-petersen
Scott
OK, I'm at work, I'll have to do it when I get home
Scott 290-272 build
- Thread starter s-petersen
- Start date
s-petersen
Scott
I am having trouble with file sizes, I will try dropbox with the 272 schematic if you want to download it directly change the last character in the link from a 0 to a 1
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgozp21qmdqkxvi/hfe_hh_scott_272_schematic.pdf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tgozp21qmdqkxvi/hfe_hh_scott_272_schematic.pdf?dl=0
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chandlerh2
Active Member
awesome project i am a sheet-metal worker by trade and can make you anything out of metal if you need it .
s-petersen
Scott
The problems I am dealing with on this amp is trying to get a finish on the aluminum chassis, I was trying for a look like the Scott faceplate, kind of brushed brass, but I was not able to find a place to do it, and doing the silkscreen, or water slide decals.
If you were closer, I had need of sheet metal work when I built this:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/i-am-starting-a-conn-mullard-5-20-project.679030/
and my first scratch build:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...-pilot-aa-920-conversion-to-power-amp.627169/
If you were closer, I had need of sheet metal work when I built this:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/i-am-starting-a-conn-mullard-5-20-project.679030/
and my first scratch build:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/in...-pilot-aa-920-conversion-to-power-amp.627169/
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chandlerh2
Active Member
That finish is tough to reproduce but we use scotch-brite to get a brushed finish on Stainless Steel . I have not tried it on aluminum but i would think it would work very well also . . Yes that was one very cool project for sure . you do awesome work .
s-petersen
Scott
This is the latest, I think all of the cutting and drilling is done.
chandlerh2
Active Member
looks fantastic did you use a uni-bit for your holes or a punch also used a countersink . great post i will be watching .
s-petersen
Scott
I used an automatic center punch, drill bit and countersink
When the time comes, you will definitely want to include the EFB Screen Grid regulator, which will improve performance significantly, and allow you to dispense with the 25K bleeder resistor as well.
The chassis looks beautiful!
Dave
The chassis looks beautiful!
Dave
s-petersen
Scott
Thanks, Dave, I certainly would like to get rid of the heater, and the chassis should make an excellent heatsink
I have to turn in, 3:45 comes early, later....
I have to turn in, 3:45 comes early, later....
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s-petersen
Scott
It looks like I will try to anodize it myself, I wasn't able to find anyone that does it one at a time.I bought the dye, and the sulfuric acid and DI water are easy to get. I will not be able to do bright anodizing because that needs strong boiling(Nitric and phosphoric) acid to do.If it doesn't work out I can paint it instead.