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Scott LK-48B

I see some for sale online,,, usually a pair tho,,, I'd rather have an original Stancor, if I can find one or swap the Fishers,,, seems they used this one in a few different models...
 
got the first can cap replaced and working,,, two more to go,, when I can find teh caps they use...
 

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Hi Paul
C202 4 x100/75V,,, C203 4X20/475v Guess I'm looking for 100 and 500VDC respectively.. Going to look at Mouser,, and Digi key, but DK doesn't have free shipping anymore,,, and I get lost in Mousers site!! Think I'll window shop at Tubes and more, but they sell retail plus shipping..
Guy next to us at K'town is a cap/resistor dealer, but I didn't know what I needed for teh Scott when I was there,,, May have to wait til Sept to get parts !!!
 
22uf would be easier to find maybe?
It might be worth checking out Partsconnexion. I was able to find some odd value and voltage caps for that big guitar amp I restored for my son that I couldn't elswere. They were a known good brand from Japan. Partsconnection has been a big help a few times.
 
Good to hear you're making progress with this Scott. If you haven't already, it's well worth looking at the restoration threads by Dave451 on this model and the similar 222C. Lots of good information there (as elsewhere on this forum).
 
Lavane said:
22uf would be easier to find maybe?
It might be worth checking out Partsconnexion. I was able to find some odd value and voltage caps for that big guitar amp I restored for my son that I couldn't elswere. They were a known good brand from Japan. Partsconnection has been a big help a few times.
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Yep,,, I used 22uF to replace teh 2x20, 2x25uF caps in the can I just finished,,, I cut up another can to use to stuff the 4X100/75V caps in this afternoon,,, Then I found a bag of 100uF/100v Chemi-con caps that I forgot I had,,, so I'll stuff that can tomorrow!! That will be teh Common Positive can for 12AX7 heaters, I would like to replace the 18R/1W resistors also if I have em,,, if not I'll just tack the old Rs in until I can replace them... The last can will be the 4x20/475 caps for B+ looks Like I'll need to order them someplace,, I'll probably get 500V...
 
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Dandy said:
Good to hear you're making progress with this Scott. If you haven't already, it's well worth looking at the restoration threads by Dave451 on this model and the similar 222C. Lots of good information there (as elsewhere on this forum).
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I try to post my progress here, and all are welcome to join in!!! I watched a few videos of a guy rebuild these also,, Seems they either buy premade cap cans or put single caps anywhere they find room under the chassis,,, I want to try to keep everything where Hermon placed em!!
 
Thanks Paul,,,
I made a couple tools to work on the box full of old can caps I hoarded up,,, One holds a cut/empty old can from the inside, to chuck in a drill press and polish the outside,,, they come out nice,,, I made another hole saw type cutter to drill into teh off cut base and leave room to take the insulation and old lugs out in one piece... The hole saw leaves side clearance for the stuffed can to slide back in deeper so its easy and secure to glue together...
It takes a while but I like doing it,, and can get any can cap config I need!!!
Sorry for the lousy pic,,, the camera is not focusing very well any more,, and then there's me and computer crap!!!!
 
Happy Fathers Day !!!
Got the new heater can cap and resistors installed and changed the other cap in that ckt also,,, Really make a difference in the preamp ckt sound, so far,, still need some more coupling caps... Next, some output tubes to try out that stage,,,
 

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I have 3 pair of 4.7uF caps,,, any reason not to them for the 4uF cathode caps for the 6U8s in this guy?? they measure 4.2 to 4.6
TIA
 
The difference between 4uf and 4.7uf is a little over 15%.
If your getting 4.2 and 4.6 it's right at about 9%. Maybe within the tolerances of the original caps?
 
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With the many Scott amplifiers that I have worked on, I have several removed FP type capacitors available for rebuild in advance. With the four-section capacitor, which includes two sections of 25 µFD @ 25 VDC and two 10 or 20µFD @ 450 VDC, is move the cathode bypass section (25µFD @ 25 VDC) right to the tube socket as well as the cathode resistor. Makes it a lot easier to rebuild the capacitor. Small 22µFD axial lead capacitors fit nicely at the tube socket as well as the 2.7KΩ resistor. Of course many variations are out there.
 
Lavane said:
The difference between 4uf and 4.7uf is a little over 15%.
If your getting 4.2 and 4.6 it's right at about 9%. Maybe within the tolerances of the original caps?
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That was my thinking also,,, and 4.7 may be the closest modern replacement for 4uF,,, its gotta be better than 62 YO caps! may add a touch of Bass/block Treble,, but they ae easy to access if I dont like em,,, but what would ya change em to???
 
kvflyer said:
With the many Scott amplifiers that I have worked on, I have several removed FP type capacitors available for rebuild in advance. With the four-section capacitor, which includes two sections of 25 µFD @ 25 VDC and two 10 or 20µFD @ 450 VDC, is move the cathode bypass section (25µFD @ 25 VDC) right to the tube socket as well as the cathode resistor. Makes it a lot easier to rebuild the capacitor. Small 22µFD axial lead capacitors fit nicely at the tube socket as well as the 2.7KΩ resistor. Of course many variations are out there.
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I actually thought about doing that ,,, but since I had the empty cans ready to fill,, and teh new caps fit easily in em,,, I decided to to try to keep part locations as close to original as possible... Not sure how much it really matters tho, as its done now!!
Thanks for the input!
 
knockbill said:
That was my thinking also,,, and 4.7 may be the closest modern replacement for 4uF,,, its gotta be better than 62 YO caps! may add a touch of Bass/block Treble,, but they ae easy to access if I dont like em,,, but what would ya change em to???
Click to expand...
I found aome 4.3uf polypropylene film caps doing a quick search at Partsexpress. Less than $2 each for the Dayton brand. I used Daytons for coupling caps once and in several speaker crossovers. They measured pretty close.
 
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