Should I plug the Mac amp directly to an outlet

[egay]

I have always plugged my SS amps directly on my dedicated outlet and always had much better results compared with when they are plugged into my Audioprism Foundation...my amps lasted like forever; even my Krell FPB-200c, which is an electricity guzzler likes it that way (probably the only way).

This changed, however, with my tube amps (Sonic Frontiers Power 2 and/or Cayin 300b/845) which performed better plugged into an Audioprism line conditioner... [I've long given-up on tube equipment, BTW]

I'm still waiting for the delivery of my 252 that will replace my JRDG 102s, and like I always do: plug it in directly into my wall socket :thmbsp:

my thoughts,
.e.

 

[anton]

Anyone tried Mac amps with Shunyata Hydra? Everybody says it doesn't kill dynamics even with big amps but I'm yet to audition it.

 

[Victor]

Anyone tried Mac amps with Shunyata Hydra? Everybody says it doesn't kill dynamics even with big amps but I'm yet to audition it.

I have the Hydra 8. I had my MC501s plugged into the Hydra for over a year. I plugged them in for the electrical protection and did not give it any thought for a long time.

Then I decided to do some comparisons and I found things sounded better with the MC501s plugged directly into the wall. Keep in mind at my usual listening levels my MC501s are usually putting out under a watt. There was more detail with the amps plugged into the wall. It was not huge difference but is was enough of a difference that I have only plugged my amps into the wall since then.

Where the Shunyata Hydra is best is when used with digital sources. The Hydra and VX power cables greatly improved the smoothness of all my digital sources. I think this is because CD players and other digital sources emit a large amount of RFI which gets into the other equipment through the power lines, the Shunyata seems to block this interference.

 

[braminator]

Are you using the factory Mac cords?

 

[jdandy]

htsource.......One of the best things you can do to protect your audio equipment, including amplifiers, from surges is to protect your entire house circuitry by installing a panel mounted surge arrestor. A good industrial strength surge arrestor will keep you from having to use the rinky-dink little surge strips, ect., at each outlet, and offer serious surge protection at the panel, shunting surges to ground before these surges travel through your house wiring system. I use the Ditek DTK-120/240SA http://www.ditekcorp.com/product-details.asp?ProdKey=104 .

Protecting your entire home's electrical system at the panel means you can plug your amps directly into the wall without worry, and without current limiting devices between the amps and the AC source. An added advantage is your other electronic components are protected, too.

 

[anton]

Are you using the factory Mac cords?

Freebie cords give you less than half the sound your amp or source is capable of. A serious Hi End power cord gives you sonic upgrade worth of upgrading your amp to the one costing twice as much IMHO. The only problem is finding the right cord...

 

[Victor]

Are you using the factory Mac cords?

If you are asking me: No, I'm not using the factory power cords. I'm just using PS Audio Power Punch power cords on my amps and preamp. They are basic cheep shielded power cords. I like to have some shielding on all my power cords.

One of these days I may try some other power cords for the amps but for now I put all my best power cords on the digital sources.

 

[Bassmantweed]

Freebie cords give you less than half the sound your amp or source is capable of. A serious Hi End power cord gives you sonic upgrade worth of upgrading your amp to the one costing twice as much IMHO. The only problem is finding the right cord...

this is just an opinion not fact and subject to many variables

 

[ss77]

Freebie cords give you less than half the sound your amp or source is capable of. A serious Hi End power cord gives you sonic upgrade worth of upgrading your amp to the one costing twice as much IMHO. The only problem is finding the right cord...

+1
I tried a Kubala Sosna Emotion AC chord and heard a tad bigger difference then the Emotion interconnect between the CD and Pre-The location I heard the biggest, largest difference and improvement in all of my other trials w/other cables, in otehre locatiions. (suprised I did not hear as much difference in the pre to amp???)
Much more smoothness, sweetness, and more quiet in the AC for the amp...
I could really hear everything I paid for!!!
I was shocked on the improvement.
Prior amp AC chord changes made subtle improvements...not so this time...
it definatley was a "WOW" moment.
Ya' just gotta try and trust what you hear...and remember just because you hear a difference...it ain't neccessarily "better"..just different...
ss77

 

[anton]

+1
I tried a Kubala Sosna Emotion AC chord and heard a tad bigger difference then the Emotion interconnect between the CD and Pre-The location I heard the biggest, largest difference and improvement in all of my other trials w/other cables, in otehre locatiions. (suprised I did not hear as much difference in the pre to amp???)
Much more smoothness, sweetness, and more quiet in the AC for the amp...
I could really hear everything I paid for!!!
I was shocked on the improvement.
Prior amp AC chord changes made subtle improvements...not so this time...
it definatley was a "WOW" moment.
Ya' just gotta try and trust what you hear...and remember just because you hear a difference...it ain't neccessarily "better"..just different...
ss77

In my experience most cheap power cords (below $1000) only colour the sound in different way and sometimes reduce the dynamics. The serious power cords however like Shunyata Python and Acoustic Zen Gargantua blow you away immediately and it's not subtle. Much bigger soundstage, radically improved tonality, transparence and smoothness etc. It really souds like a serous component upgrade, say from integrated to separates. But I'd go as far as to suppose that 6900 with Shunyata Python CX will sound bettter than 46/402 combo with stock cords.

 

[jstang]

Keep in mind most Power amps develop a high Peak current spike on the AC source side. RMS values are almost meaningless on the AC supply side, other then to size the breakers....even that is needs to be over sized.

The peaks in current draw peaks on the AC side are directly related to load on the output side. Large RMS power spikes/blasts on the output create very large Peak current spikes on the AC source for a brief period time the AC secondary voltage of the transformer is above the DC rail voltage.

Greate URL that explains the issue.

http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Design/dcpsu.htm

I do my best to provide the lowest voltage drop under load for my amps.

Now a lot of this depends on the type of power supply your Mac has. The above applies to bridge rectifier power supply. Switching supplies behave differently.

I found that with very demanding speaker loads & high power out settings benefit from every improvement on the AC sources side. Also the reverse it true too...small degradations on the AC source side can be heard with very demanding speaker loads & high power out settings.

Johnk

 

[egay]

htsource.......One of the best things you can do to protect your audio equipment, including amplifiers, from surges is to protect your entire house circuitry by installing a panel mounted surge arrestor. A good industrial strength surge arrestor will keep you from having to use the rinky-dink little surge strips, ect., at each outlet, and offer serious surge protection at the panel, shunting surges to ground before these surges travel through your house wiring system. I use the Ditek DTK-120/240SA http://www.ditekcorp.com/product-details.asp?ProdKey=104 .

Protecting your entire home's electrical system at the panel means you can plug your amps directly into the wall without worry, and without current limiting devices between the amps and the AC source. An added advantage is your other electronic components are protected, too.

I've been wondering about this fr years - thanks, jdandy!... unfortunately, i've ye to find an electrical contractor or supplier here in Manila who can provide me this device. I've talked to 2 contractors and they are recommending the BIG AVR+SURGE PROTECTOR++ that measures around 36"H x 72" L, similar to the ones i use in our office :sigh:; ridiculous... i'm probably not clear in explaining to them.

Anyway, i'm currently hunting this and would let you all know my progress.

At the moment, my amps are direct-to-wall (dedicated circuit for my audio system) while my sources, et. al. go into my AudioPrism Foundation. All cables/PCs are Acoustic Zen.

Works very well for me.

.e.

 

[egay]

Keep in mind most Power amps develop a high Peak current spike on the AC source side. RMS values are almost meaningless on the AC supply side, other then to size the breakers....even that is needs to be over sized.

The peaks in current draw peaks on the AC side are directly related to load on the output side. Large RMS power spikes/blasts on the output create very large Peak current spikes on the AC source for a brief period time the AC secondary voltage of the transformer is above the DC rail voltage.

Greate URL that explains the issue.

http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Design/dcpsu.htm

I do my best to provide the lowest voltage drop under load for my amps.

....
Johnk

Hi JohnK - how do you exactly do this?
I'm ready to call my contractor to review my house circuits, especially my audio room, but i don't know WHAT to ask or tell him to do exactly :saywhat:

TIA!
.e.

 

[Tranquil]

htsource.......One of the best things you can do to protect your audio equipment, including amplifiers, from surges is to protect your entire house circuitry by installing a panel mounted surge arrestor. A good industrial strength surge arrestor will keep you from having to use the rinky-dink little surge strips, ect., at each outlet, and offer serious surge protection at the panel, shunting surges to ground before these surges travel through your house wiring system. I use the Ditek DTK-120/240SA http://www.ditekcorp.com/product-details.asp?ProdKey=104 .

Protecting your entire home's electrical system at the panel means you can plug your amps directly into the wall without worry, and without current limiting devices between the amps and the AC source. An added advantage is your other electronic components are protected, too.

This is an excellent precaution. I had an Open Nutral incident on my home some mts. ago where quite a few appliances were damaged. A surge suppressor on my sons computer literally burst leaving black stuff all over the wall and a hole in the surge suppressor, the computer was also damaged. The refrigerator also had damage.
The devices with multiple outlets we call surge suppressors might be convenient for plugging in multiple devices but they do not give much protection from an actual electrical surge.
Jdandy, Would the surge arrestor you are recommending have seen that unbalance load on the incoming lines and shut down the power before it got past the electrical panel, resulting in more protection for my Mc Intosh Equ. and general appliances?

Anthony

 

[jstang]

Hi JohnK - how do you exactly do this?
I'm ready to call my contractor to review my house circuits, especially my audio room, but i don't know WHAT to ask or tell him to do exactly :saywhat:

TIA!
.e.

So there are tons of good threads on power improvements...via dedicated circuits.

But I use a 20 amp 240V circuit with a 10 gauge wire, my amps can run 240V.... I have ugly in efficient loads on my amps. But a dedicated 20amp 120v 12 gauge would do it in most cases for the amp with a hospital grade outlet.

I do run a power conditioner ( exact power for the source & pre amp ). A surge protector is a good idea on the amp or whole house, but I do not have one right now.

The uglier the speaker load...the more the AC source current will matter, voltage drop on the AC source causes voltage drop on power supply rails. . Of course AC noise line stink too.


johnk

 

[Donnx]

I plug my Mcintosh amps, subs into the wall. Sounds better to me. My power conditioners dulls the sound and narrows the image.

But I do fear, what happens if they get surged? Oh...I will be bummed.

So my question is ... what can I put in between the amps and the wall that won't change the sound?

 

[tjnif]

I plug my MC2000's direct to the wall (dedicated 20 Amp) as does my MC352... When I tried plugging the MC2000's to a PS Audio powerplant premier it just "dulled" the sound, to much "sag". Sort of like comparing a solid state rectifie mArshall amp to an older Marshall JTM45 tub rectified. More Bloom, and softer transient attack to the strings.....,blah,bah,blah.... I might add that whenI introduced Kubala emotion cables it was EYE opening!

 

[pleeson]

Put a whole-house surge protector in your electrical box.

 

[chuckworkb]

I plug my MC352 directly into a PS Audio Soloist Premier outlet, and all the other gear into the PS Audio PPP. All on dedicated lines.

 

[Westy56]

Outlet-Regulator-Sequencer-Conditioner-Amp.

I don't have the luxury of a dedicated line yet.


Steve