radioactive
tube gear fanatic
Well that sucks and as I said angle is everything when taking pics.
Should I return this dustcover?
- Thread starter gary7
- Start date
Once I tried out a car buffer doing by hand is history. Except for the wet block sanding if needed. Using a buffer most plastic polishes will do the job.
I have a pretty good system for doing them. Five gallon bucket right side up with a thick piece of foam placed inside of the of lid. Top up to be buffed. Then I sit on my mechanic stool my legs around the bucket. Then start buffing away. It can be messy so take that into account, eye protection apron old cloths ect......
It should turn out nicely for you doing by hand.
Just takes longer.
I have a pretty good system for doing them. Five gallon bucket right side up with a thick piece of foam placed inside of the of lid. Top up to be buffed. Then I sit on my mechanic stool my legs around the bucket. Then start buffing away. It can be messy so take that into account, eye protection apron old cloths ect......
It should turn out nicely for you doing by hand.
Just takes longer.
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Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
That will only cut the finer scratches. But it will cut. The normal plastic polishes didn’t really cut the scratches much at all.
The results you get will depend on how much effort you put in, meaning different amounts of cutting, then polishing. Those making scratched but not gouged dust covers look new have done a multi-step process to get those results.
Going with something like Plast-X would be a good first use to allow you to see how much improvement can be had on the good part of the cover and show you how much deeper you need to cut for the scratches that are not removed. Hopefully, the damage is just very light scratches and they come out.
vinylkid58
Super Member
I do have 850 to 3000 grit wet sandpaper. The ones I've done seemed to work better with some plastics compared to others.
Quality stuff. I use them with excellent results on old motorcycle windshields.
Both these posts are gold. It all depends how much better you want it. Better to go ahead and do it right, I would advise.
I must be doing something wrong. This other cover I have had some scratches. A few little deeper. Used wet paper at 800 to 3000 grit. Then used PlastX and cloth and foam buffer. The surface feels smooth yet there are visible scratches that look to be under the surface. Most weren't there when I started.
Spitballing here, but did you jump up in grit too soon?
Sorry, man. Im sure someone will chime in.
Sorry, man. Im sure someone will chime in.
Ok. Started with 800 then1500, 2000, 3000. Then the buffer pads and PlastX. Did I need some more grits in between.
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Any residue at all on your pads will have an effect. I’ve polished out a dust over before and got great results with your method. But I had brand new pads for each level. Maybe a bit of overkill, but I can be that way.
I bet plasticX doesn't have enough cutting medium to remove the wet sanding swirls.
Thats why I use automotive polishing compound, the use a finer cut polishing compound, flower by a wax, or better yet a cleaner wax . The cleaner wax has even finer cut than the fine cut polish plus it has a wax.
I had a cover with just as much wear on it as yours and it came out crystal clear.
Also you have to wet sand it down till the entire surface is dull with only the 3000 grit swirls left in it.
Your pic looks like there is still more corse scratches than a 3000 grit would leave.
And the buffer needs to be a very high speed , not sure how many RPM's your buffer does. I used a drill with a wool pad on it. and also a foam pad as well with the finest cut polishes .
Athanasios
Thats why I use automotive polishing compound, the use a finer cut polishing compound, flower by a wax, or better yet a cleaner wax . The cleaner wax has even finer cut than the fine cut polish plus it has a wax.
I had a cover with just as much wear on it as yours and it came out crystal clear.
Also you have to wet sand it down till the entire surface is dull with only the 3000 grit swirls left in it.
Your pic looks like there is still more corse scratches than a 3000 grit would leave.
And the buffer needs to be a very high speed , not sure how many RPM's your buffer does. I used a drill with a wool pad on it. and also a foam pad as well with the finest cut polishes .
Athanasios
restorer-john
Addicted Member
Just put in the effort and restore the dustcover for goodness sake. Not hard. Might take you an hour or two.
The TT is a million years old and you are incredibly lucky to obtain an original lid that isn't cracked, destroyed or melted.
The "entitlement" these days means so much of what we want, spare parts, unobtainium, will disappear into landfill because people (sellers) just can't be bothered with the drama. Mores the pity.
The TT is a million years old and you are incredibly lucky to obtain an original lid that isn't cracked, destroyed or melted.
The "entitlement" these days means so much of what we want, spare parts, unobtainium, will disappear into landfill because people (sellers) just can't be bothered with the drama. Mores the pity.
Sage advice if the OPs post was asking for advice on how to bring back an item to like new.
Though it isn't,read the title.
It is not an entitlement to expect a purchased item to arrive as described.
waggs098
Super Member
I have done it before on a couple TT covers. Mine came out great. It looks like maybe not enough time spent on each step?
I also started with steel wool 0000 grit. And also used bar keepers friend. It's a brass and steel polisher. It's been a while since I did it and can't remember the exact steps.
I also started with steel wool 0000 grit. And also used bar keepers friend. It's a brass and steel polisher. It's been a while since I did it and can't remember the exact steps.
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