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Sir.Byrd's 2226H based super speaker project

An older couple once invited me into their home (I'm pretty sure they were a couple I did yard work for). He showed off his system, which I'm now thinking was a JBL paragon (maybe), powered by McIntosh and a TT I can't recall.

That experience gave new meaning to Hi-Fi. Prior to that everything was just "music", if it wan't live that is.

We just need to open our doors, wisely of course, so that we can enlighten more youth, so that they too can appreciate good sound or if they're lucky great sound!
 
I use hot-glue, fast applying and fast setting and re-heat to remove! Unless of course I'm a dinosaur and this is not a good practice anymore?
 
FYI on drilling holes. A very cool tool offered through most woodworking supplies is a starter bit. It has a tapered seat and a bit that runs through the center. The seat rests in the hole and centers the bit. When you press down the bit passes through the seat and drills a perfect starter hole. This way holes are not only perfectly centered, there is no risk of damage to the object (in this case speaker frame). Follow up with the correct size bit and you are all set.

If driving wood screws no need to follow up with larger bit, just run the screws in.

They're available in many sizes and sets. Cheap and save a lot of time drilling holes and starter holes.
 
"Talking Heads" good tunes to listen to. Love the video "Stop Making Sense". Have it on DVD but would like on Blu-ray, if it's available.

Nice work so far!
 
Sorry, I have display Treaded Mode, allows me to see posts attached accordingly. This does screw me up sometimes since others don't necessarily post "under" the post they're referring to.

In any case, this is a cool post.
 
dumptruck said:
Sir Byrd, it's been fun following this one! Now, when do the poor things get some clothes?

Copa, what the heck?
Click to expand...
You can display posts/threads in three ways (Display Modes). If you write a message that message will post directly below the message you are viewing. Threaded mode is Hierarchical, so subsequent posts appear indented and below the message viewed. For me this makes things a lot easier to follow, and usually makes more sense. It's also chronologically correct, as long as people post a response to the message "displayed", otherwise it becomes another level of hierarchy.

Others rely on "quotes", whatever. I have no trouble figuring other posts out when they are not sequentially correct, so why give me grief?

I'm not going to make everyone happy, oh well.
 
A huge majority of members use linear mode, by simply quoting, it makes it easier for a large portion of the community to follow what you are posting. It still makes sense in your mode, as well, and makes things far easier to follow. Just a request, you can do as you like, just don't expect people to understand your posts or who they are directed to.
 
Byrd, these are SO FREAKIN' COOL! That's all I have to say.

Well, that and I'm jealous of the owner … :D
 
Copa1934 said:
FYI on drilling holes. A very cool tool offered through most woodworking supplies is a starter bit. It has a tapered seat and a bit that runs through the center. The seat rests in the hole and centers the bit. When you press down the bit passes through the seat and drills a perfect starter hole. This way holes are not only perfectly centered, there is no risk of damage to the object (in this case speaker frame). Follow up with the correct size bit and you are all set.

If driving wood screws no need to follow up with larger bit, just run the screws in.

They're available in many sizes and sets. Cheap and save a lot of time drilling holes and starter holes.
Click to expand...

We used one of those for the woofer holes.

stoutblock said:
cool looking speakers!

what room are you testing these in? size? you are using the crown 150? what pre?
Click to expand...

Fairly large room, maybe 15x40. We are no longer using the crown 150, and we did not use a pre because of the adjustable inputs on the amp, but we will need an active one in the future because we need an extra gain stage, at least for that amp, to get the max out of it.

truth seeker said:
Well done! Those are quite the posers...er, the speakers.

How "into" building an amp do you want to get?

ostripper over on DIYAudio has developed and continues to refine some fine high-power candidates.

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/169590-mongrel-supersym-ii.html
Click to expand...

Find my build thread
 
dnewma04 said:
A huge majority of members use linear mode, by simply quoting, it makes it easier for a large portion of the community to follow what you are posting. It still makes sense in your mode, as well, and makes things far easier to follow. Just a request, you can do as you like, just don't expect people to understand your posts or who they are directed to.
Click to expand...
Request graciously excepted and I'll try a little harder to quote where I'm referencing something.

Really enjoyed this nicely detailed journey. Can't wait to see what they look like after they have there new "skin". Leather or whatever covering....
 
Got a couple of amps to bridge mono for these @ 345 watts/8 ohms. Free. Looks like we'll have some extra dough for this subwoofer project.
ACE.
 
DONE
DSC_0007.jpg
 
They look great! :thmbsp:

Will,

Would you be interested in giving a special demo at the Club's July meeting? We'll be discussing the feasibility of a pair of high efficiency speakers for the club and your design would certainly be a great example of what's possible.

Best Regards,
Terry
 
Yes, I will just have to secure an EQ, these need a bass boost to fill a large room, as I discovered today.
 
Sir.Byrd said:
Yes, I will just have to secure an EQ, these need a bass boost to fill a large room, as I discovered today.
Click to expand...

What is the box Fb? They should take plenty of boost at Fb since that is an excursion minimum for the driver.
 
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