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Slow platterspeed on Dual 1009 ??

Ok now the turntable is back in its beautiful base... I soldered the new interconnect cables and it works fine...for some reason I dont get any hum at all and Im NOT using any separate groundwire between chassis and amp, not a problem of course.

It plays very well now...the speed is not "dead on" stabile but it ok...the slight differnece in speed is so little that I cant hear it but only measure it with the strobomat on, maybe a new idler wheel would do the last trick, If I could find one I would like to try it with another wheel...

I did feel bad in a way for removing the automatics... but It was so many things I didnt know where to start...auto return/stop didnt work att all... it refused to stay in the manual mode, as soon as I let my finger go it would go back to stop, auto start only worked every three times or so, and sometimes when it did work it suddenly stopped in the middle of a record for no reason.

there is one outlet (see pic) that I just wondered whats the purpose for, anyone know? it can also be seen in the service manual so it must be original...

dullexzt8.jpg



and a couple of pics of the TT, inside the plinth its printed " 2 NOV 1965" probably the date when the turntable was manufactured 41 years ago :D

I wonder what kind of people bought this type of turntables when they were new... where there "audiophile" type people back in those days or just ordinary people, families that enjoyed listening to records...? :scratch2:

also I wonder about the plexi glass used in the dustcover its different from anything else I have seen, first its vey thick(5mm) but also its very clear and glistening almost like real glass...and you cant really see scratches in it not even those light ones you normally see in dustcovers when light hit the surface from a certain angle... is this a special type of plexi/acrylic glass ?

dual1dr8.jpg


dual2xk2.jpg


dual3xs8.jpg
 
If the outlet is switched, the only thing I can think of is for running a phono preamp.

P.S. It looks wonderful!
 
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A simple connectivity check with an ohmmeter from each prong of the power cord to the chassis (with the motor switched on) will show any motor grounding problems.
 
Dyna&Sansui said:
If the outlet is switched, the only thing I can think of is for running a phono preamp.

P.S. It looks wonderful!
Click to expand...

Yes thats probably it, never thought of that, thanks.

I think these Duals in the wooden plinth with woodpanels also in dustcover are the most beautiful Dual ever made, not sure if these bases were also sold in the US (?) because whenever I see a 1009 or 1019 etc. on US Ebay they are almost always in the United Audio plinths which I think its a different plinth and not a Dual original, but I might be wrong...

anyway Im waiting to receive another Dual in a similar base, its a 1019 not 1009. This time I intend to get everything to work, including the automatics, hopefully I will now have a little experience from messing with this 1009 which may make it a little easier...

also im not 100% sure which position for the bearing in the pics are correct... didnt pay attention to it when I removed it and now I dont really know... think it should be like in pic A. or ? can someone please guide me here, the drawing of the bearing in the service manual dont make any sence to this...

aas8.jpg


bnz6.jpg
 
Since you have completely decimated the auto-mechanism, you may want to remove the aluminum trip-rod, as it presents extra friction for the arm.

Seth
Forever Analog
 
NoTransistors said:
Since you have completely decimated the auto-mechanism, you may want to remove the aluminum trip-rod, as it presents extra friction for the arm.

Seth
Forever Analog
Click to expand...

Yes! now the trip-rod also gone.

Now I noticed that the platter wobbles back and forth a little, not much but it can bee seen If you follow the record spin... whats most likely to cause this? the main bering is now cleaned and oiled but maybe its worn to the point its causing the platter to wobble ... :scratch2:
 
If you took the bearing apart, did you reassemble it right?

The wear-marks on the washers must face the balls. This is because these faces are hardened and polished.

The washer with a bigger hole goes above; with the smaller hole, below. There are 2 different washers.

Also, the platter might just be warped. Dual and Thorens platters are zinc, and this stuff can warp. Thorens waited a while, before packing their platters, Dual did not. If the platter did not warp in the 1st week, it never warped.

Seth
Forever Analog
 
NoTransistors said:
If you took the bearing apart, did you reassemble it right?

The wear-marks on the washers must face the balls. This is because these faces are hardened and polished.

The washer with a bigger hole goes above; with the smaller hole, below. There are 2 different washers.

Also, the platter might just be warped. Dual and Thorens platters are zinc, and this stuff can warp. Thorens waited a while, before packing their platters, Dual did not. If the platter did not warp in the 1st week, it never warped.

Seth
Forever Analog
Click to expand...

Thanks for advices Seth, I want to learn about these Duals so your information is valuable to me.

I took apart the bearing again and doublechecked it, it appears to be in order and assembled correctly.

Most likely I have a warped platter...so now I need another one... but are "perfect" ones difficult to find? if its not the platter maybe something in the mechanism that holds the shaft could be slightly bent. Anyway a straight platter must be one of the "basics", no point in trying to tweak this table and get some sonic benefits if the platter is wraped :no:



bearinghn2.jpg
 
I posted a reply yesterday, but apparently A.K. was being serviced, as my reply is nowhere to be seen.

Your platter was used on several models, so securing one is not difficult. But is it worth it?

The base is spectacular, so why not find another ten incher to fit? Something a bit better like a Dual 1019.

Seth
Forever Analog
 
NoTransistors said:
I posted a reply yesterday, but apparently A.K. was being serviced, as my reply is nowhere to be seen.

Your platter was used on several models, so securing one is not difficult. But is it worth it?

The base is spectacular, so why not find another ten incher to fit? Something a bit better like a Dual 1019.

Seth
Forever Analog
Click to expand...

Maybe Im easily pleased cause I already think this Dual sounds good with the Shure cartridge that came together with the TT when I boought it :)

I already gave this turntable a lot of time, soldered on some expensive interconnects etc. so now I wanna go all the way...
If I cant find a "perfect", not warped, platter anywhere else
, do you have a spare one you can sell me? Im in Europe so I know shipping would be quite expensive... but I prefer to buy a platter that I know is OK in advance rather than just keep buying 1009:s of German ebay hoping to find one in good condition

Whats the main differences between 1009 and 1019 ? arent they very similar?
in what way is 1019 better?
 
I do not have any spares for these models.

The 1019 has a heavier platter, a better arm with anti-skate and cueing, synchronous motor, etc.

There were three variations of your model. At least one has no cueing or anti-skate. The 1019 is the best ten-incher that they made. If it wasn't for the sort of heavy, sort of short arm, it could easily compete with the 12" 1219/1229 models. Also, the longer tonearm of the 12" models works better with eliptical-shaped styli.

Seth
Forever Analog
 
NoTransistors said:
I do not have any spares for these models.

The 1019 has a heavier platter, a better arm with anti-skate and cueing, synchronous motor, etc.

There were three variations of your model. At least one has no cueing or anti-skate. The 1019 is the best ten-incher that they made. If it wasn't for the sort of heavy, sort of short arm, it could easily compete with the 12" 1219/1229 models. Also, the longer tonearm of the 12" models works better with eliptical-shaped styli.

Seth
Forever Analog
Click to expand...

OK, thanks for this info. Im waiting to receive a 1019, in a similar base, in a week or so.
 
Hi all,

Not meaning to thread-jack here. Great work on your 1009 BTW!

I just aquired a console stereo with Fisher electronics and a DUAL 1009 record-changer. I have yet to tear into it, but I was wondering what might be a better idea: R&R the 1009, or replace with another(probably 1970's model) changer mechanism? Is the Dual '9' in their model numbers, representative of a changer? I would like to keep the changer option. I have a BSR mech. from an older SONY all-in-one, but it was a noisy beast. I've never owned a DUAL, and I would like to stay as 'original' as possible when restoring this console. Anyone?
 
NoTransistors said:
The base is spectacular, so why not find another ten incher to fit? Something a bit better like a Dual 1019.

Seth
Forever Analog
Click to expand...

Something tells me that the 1009 and the 1019 have different cutouts, or is my memory defective (as usual)? In the 12 series, they certainly do: 1209 1219, that is.
 
Does anyone know what would be interchangeable with the 1009, as far as its' base cutout goes? I can purchase a cutout diagram, but they are $20 each on eBray, and it might be a bit co$t prohibitive to go that route.
 
anyone have a serviceable idler wheel for a dual 1009? i just got one from a neighbor out of a console in nice shape all functions fine but idler is cracked and hard
 
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