• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

sme 3009 rewiring service, any experience?

Has anyone with a SME 3009 tonearm gotten the sme rewire upgrade service? here is the link for the service http://www.smetonearms.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=2, seems like a good deal for the work done, my 3009 is a little beat up and has no wires/din connector and needs a few other replacement parts, it does however have the dampening trough, a nice addition. I would like to see if anyone has had this service done and what they thought of the experience. thanks so much
 
Register to hide this ad
I haven't- do you know the cost?

I do my own re-wires on these (and other) arms. Big thing with the SME 3009 II with removable headshells- the collet is easily damaged- ask how I know....
 
yeah it is $350 for a complete rebuild with 1.25 meters of cardas wire w/ rcs's and replacement of any and all worn/broken parts, the collet on mine spins due to stripped threads. plus a few other things need attention and a few broken bits
 
The collet alone runs $120. The new RCA plate is about $37. Cardas wire cost me $35-$50 (with shipping).

Re-wiring these are one of the easier arms, in my opinion. I don't know what parts you need replaced though, so it may be a viable thing to do.
 
If you can get the parts you need (SME in the UK can supply every part for the 3009 still) and you are able to solder fine wires -- and you have a bit of patience when securing the ground wire (tricky) this is not difficult to do yourself.

If you are patient, some people sell good parts from otherwise damaged arms.

In my experience, it is worth replacing the whole wiring harness as the little spring-loaded contact pins do wear out.
 
Yes, I've dealt with Alfred Kayser, who owns SME 3009 Tonearms, and is great guy. He is not only an SME 3009 expert, but is very knowledgeable about everything you would ever want to know about tonearms and turntables and is likely the greatest repository of information, knowledge and spares for Micro Seiki in NA. Do not hesitate to do business with Alfred. He will take excellent care of your tonearm and you will be very pleased with his work.
Here is a pic of a DDX-1000 that he took apart and polished every surface. Stunning.
 

Attachments

  • 13.jpg
    13.jpg
    74.7 KB · Views: 93
I picked up a butchered SME 3009 tonearm, that in need of rewiring.
Is there a trick to removing the collet and soldering it?
attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1469.jpg
    IMG_1469.jpg
    37 KB · Views: 220
  • IMG_1470.jpg
    IMG_1470.jpg
    57 KB · Views: 222
Tighten the screw before loosening it. Be careful and do this with a light hand. Biggest issue is upon re-asembly, folk over-tighten them and strip out the soft aluminum pilot hole of the collet. The collet, by design, allows for one to rotate azimuth with a very small amount of twisting force. That's why the screw sits in an oblong hole, not a round one.

When soldering new wire, use a metal headshell installed in the collet as a heat sink. I also attach cheap wire or headshell leads in the headshell to further act as a heat sink. The plastic of the collet easily melts, and the pins can readily pop out. I've tried saving a few for folk, but it's not ever been successful. New factory collets run $118-$125 and up.

Collets can also fail with age- the springs lose their spring, or break. I've had a few examples cross my desk with collet springs "un-sprung".

These arms can take the thicker Cardas wire and work well, unlike many a japanese arm that prefers the thinner Isokinetik Litz.

A trick- SME "experts" and supposed dealers stated to me that some of the SMEs came with cotton or linen (and even balsa wood) in the arm tube for damping. I add a small amount of cotton batting- it's nominal in weight.
 
I add a small amount of cotton batting- it's nominal in weight.

One of the local craft shop has silk batting for a very inexpensive price.

They are pretty good for putting inside coil springs for minor damping.

I will send you some sample for experimentation next time I get some.:music:
 
One of the local craft shop has silk batting for a very inexpensive price.

They are pretty good for putting inside coil springs for minor damping.

I will send you some sample for experimentation next time I get some.:music:

Sounds great (pun intended)!
 
I just finished taking apart the SME. need to find a place to buy tonearm wires and good RCA. and ideas?
attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0328.jpg
    IMG_0328.jpg
    49.4 KB · Views: 180
  • IMG_0329.jpg
    IMG_0329.jpg
    81.6 KB · Views: 171
  • IMG_0330.jpg
    IMG_0330.jpg
    46.6 KB · Views: 169
this looks great , I went with smetonearms.com for the rewire, I would recomend them in a second, however it looks like you got it covered. good luck!
 
Read post #1 in this thread. You could/should also upgrade the bearings while you have it apart.

Can I ask why?

I've only seen two with abused knife edge bearings- from the arms taking a hit from the top- looked like the tables were stacked one on top of the other, with nicks/mars on the arms.

the pillar bearings, I've yet to see an issue. Unless the arm was used as a handle or stacked as above, I'd not worry about the bearings.
 
No concern about the collet I'm not going to solder to them I'll use sockets pre wired

Soldering them is going to be a lot stronger. Be quick, watch the temperature, and use the headshell as heat sink and you should be fine. Using clips is an inferior connection.
 
Back
Top Bottom