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So, anybody ever get physical with an Ohm Walsh?

If you have a similar tweeter, you can even swap it in and see if it makes noise. Otherwise, the suggestions by moebuster and ericj are spot on. Based on my own unhappy experience with the tweeter in a Walsh 3, I'm making frowny faces at the tweeter. But I hope it's something easier/cheaper.
 
yeah i mean this ain't brain surgery.turn the volume down turn the balance over to the side your using the speaker wire on and touch the leads to the tweeter polarity wont matter -positive /negative.it's just a test to see IF the tweeter is the problem of elsewhere in that barrage of fuses...

whatcha waitin on!:boring:
 
yeah i mean this ain't brain surgery.turn the volume down turn the balance over to the side your using the speaker wire on and touch the leads to the tweeter polarity wont matter -positive /negative.it's just a test to see IF the tweeter is the problem of elsewhere in that barrage of fuses...

whatcha waitin on!:boring:

Lol! Done this to a pair myself. Very doable.

Might I suggest if it's not the Tweets and your not overly confident in your abilities.. I would consider having them worked on. Those crossovers have a lot going on. Could get messy quick.
 
here's a spare walsh 2 i got today.
sort of a Darth Vader meets Mickey Mouse vibe...
IMG_1292_zps3675c789.jpg

a little bit different from my other 2's-
the rear deflector is plastic as opposed to cardboard and the
electrics are different as well.
IMG_1291_zpsc673e025.jpg

IMG_1290_zpsb98bdec8.jpg
 
It never ceases to amaze me all the variants of OW's there are out there, at least with what is on the inside of the cans anyway. Same model, different tweeters, deflectors, foam triangles, Tufflex etc. Regardless, I still like the music they make when working properly.

2325 Veepster-where did you go? Get your Ohm tweeter working yet? Your speaker there looks like an earlier CLS driver, maybe S1 in an "F" cabinet, there were a few variants of the modified F, but a couple of them had the bass vent on the top driver mounting board. Hard to get a handle on the actual cabinet size you have, as looking at the driver that is in there, it even almost looks like it could be an "A" cabinet as it makes that driver seem fairly small, but I doubt it. Interesting though! If you are still out there, update us and maybe get some more pics of the cabinet/driver. Have fun! Tim

Actually, that is an F cabinet, forgot about the A's top board being a bit different.
 
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Yes there is a mind boggling array of different configurations - a few things to consider:

Yes "inside the can" might look kind of ugly, that's surely one reason for the can (and to protect whats inside). Each pair/each speaker is tested at least twice before it's sent out. You get a pretty long "in home trial". When somebody brought one of the cheaper old Ohm models to a DIY gathering listening event it was widely considered by the listeners to have better imaging than even the best/most expensive speakers that were auditioned.

Ultimately, what's most important is how do you like the sound of them in your listening room.
​
I worked at Ohm for a few years (not since 2003, except for occasional trips back to visit). My favorite current (my last visit was about a year ago) model is the 1000 for it's combination of size, overall sound quality, and bass output (relative to it's size). It's not the best model for a low power tube amp (I expect the largest models to have the highest sensitivity for that application, despite their larger "power rating" listed on their website).

DIY adventures may be successful - but it's going to require a lot more ingenuity (or luck) than a typical DIY box speaker design.

It is partially because of the wide variety of different configurations, even in the same model, over the last 30 - 35 years, that Ohm generally asks you to send back BOTH drivers when doing repairs or upgrades.
 
The upgrade is not the only path on Ohm's site. You can also go the repair route(listed as high or low repair) for much less.
About people's feeling of sneakiness regarding the presence of the cans and the use of drawings vs photos, I'll say this: first, ask anyone you know who produces(or repairs) a product containing multiple parts about the butchered stuff that comes back with some service/warranty requests; second, have you noticed those disclaimers in ads with photos- you know, the suv is not included with the pressure washer, or the camera with the filter; so if you get a slightly(or rather) different bunch of stuff 'under the hood' you shouldn't freak out- it was not a literal representation of the included parts.
 
Yes there is a mind boggling array of different configurations - a few things to consider:

Yes "inside the can" might look kind of ugly, that's surely one reason for the can (and to protect whats inside). Each pair/each speaker is tested at least twice before it's sent out. You get a pretty long "in home trial". When somebody brought one of the cheaper old Ohm models to a DIY gathering listening event it was widely considered by the listeners to have better imaging than even the best/most expensive speakers that were auditioned.

Ultimately, what's most important is how do you like the sound of them in your listening room.
​
I worked at Ohm for a few years (not since 2003, except for occasional trips back to visit). My favorite current (my last visit was about a year ago) model is the 1000 for it's combination of size, overall sound quality, and bass output (relative to it's size). It's not the best model for a low power tube amp (I expect the largest models to have the highest sensitivity for that application, despite their larger "power rating" listed on their website).

DIY adventures may be successful - but it's going to require a lot more ingenuity (or luck) than a typical DIY box speaker design.

It is partially because of the wide variety of different configurations, even in the same model, over the last 30 - 35 years, that Ohm generally asks you to send back BOTH drivers when doing repairs or upgrades.
I agree here, regardless of what they may look like on the insides, they do indeed sound very good. I too think the 1000 and 2000 are a great point within the lineup. I have to say that when I had my 3000's and MWT,s, I probably enjoyed the little MWT,s just as much, I used to think they have no business sounding this good! Fun little speakers!
 
It never ceases to amaze me all the variants of OW's there are out there, at least with what is on the inside of the cans anyway. Same model, different tweeters, deflectors, foam triangles, Tufflex etc. Regardless, I still like the music they make when working properly.

2325 Veepster-where did you go? Get your Ohm tweeter working yet? Your speaker there looks like an earlier CLS driver, maybe S1 in an "F" cabinet, there were a few variants of the modified F, but a couple of them had the bass vent on the top driver mounting board. Hard to get a handle on the actual cabinet size you have, as looking at the driver that is in there, it even almost looks like it could be an "A" cabinet as it makes that driver seem fairly small, but I doubt it. Interesting though! If you are still out there, update us and maybe get some more pics of the cabinet/driver. Have fun! Tim

Actually, that is an F cabinet, forgot about the A's top board being a bit different.

Hey! Wow sorry for the really late reply! (and reviving an old thread)

I did end up putting another silk dome into the can to get it working... but now I'm thinking of going a different route like wualta, but I'm trying to determine if the tweeters are worth it or not. I'll upload pictures of the can with the silk dome swap, the one with the original, and also the Heil from a Lafayette Criterion 3001. I was original excited, but after reading all the threads about the little heils now I'm not so sure if it's worth the money.... any thoughts?

With the cab, it's marked an F and I think it's a very early swap from the original design. They are big, but not as wide as the A from what I can tell in pictures. There should also be a shot of the label plate. I can always take more pictures of you want!
 

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Mine wasn't making any sound, I think they're oil dampened too, if I remember the dead one was leaking... I have it kicking around somewhere. I kept it on the thought that maybe it would be something simple to replace. Ultimately just swapping the working silk dome in was the easiest solution. I am still in the process of deciding if I should just replace the other side with the second silk or buy these Heil coronas and try them (or something else).
 
Veepster-Wow, I too had totally forgotten about this thread. And I haven't been on AK much lately, I happened to get a bit lucky today and saw this. Good for getting your tweeters redone, at least you have that regardless of if you or don't go with the Heils. I really won't comment on the Heil, I think it is one of those things you have to do the swap and see if it is to your liking. I would say this, if you don't swap for Heils, I would at least make sure your tweets on both speakers are the same. At any rate, have fun with them and enjoy your music!
 
Mine wasn't making any sound, I think they're oil dampened too, if I remember the dead one was leaking... I have it kicking around somewhere. I kept it on the thought that maybe it would be something simple to replace. Ultimately just swapping the working silk dome in was the easiest solution. I am still in the process of deciding if I should just replace the other side with the second silk or buy these Heil coronas and try them (or something else).

Do you have a speaker measurement system setup? If you don't, I imagine someone living near by who's into the speaker hobby would be willing to help.
 
Just found this older thread. Anyone ever listen to Ohm Walsh with and without the cans? Specifically the older 3/300 series or any for that matter. Due to the nature of the can construction, and from my experience in building speakers, They surely can't be providing any damping to the woofer. It can provide some attenuation to the tweeter and upper mids. Thoughts please. Thanks for your time.
 
yes,i have and they (the 2), are a little bit more"airy" but boy they sure are ugly without the mesh top.
the glue around the joint at the base has to be softened with a solvent and then with much heaving and hoing pulled apart.
try not to bend them-
 
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