so what about scratched records?!
- Thread starter thes
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Wigwam Jones
Caesar non supra grammati
First, one has to be sure it's scratches and not dirt. So cleaning the records is in order. Use the method that best suits you; I wash them in the sink, other use record cleaning machines.
Second, use decent equipment. Poor playback equipment can make bad sound worse. Of course, sometimes good equipment can do the same thing, so it might be a tossup. In general though, sometimes the use of a different stylus shape (conical, elliptical, etc) can find a spot in the grooves that isn't as damaged, and therefore make playback sound better.
Third, there have been people who have attempted to fix flaws using a variety of methods. I've lightly experimented with a couple, and so far, all I can say is no, they do not work for me. Scratches are not (generally) fixable if they are in fact scratches.
However, there may still be hope. Recording a scratched record to digital, there are some very nice free or cheap (and some nice expensive) tools that can remove some level of scratches in software, giving you a nice clean file you can play back. Not for real-time listening in most cases, but it's good for last-ditch efforts at preservation.
And sometimes the dang thing is just beyond saving and you throw it away.
KentTeffeteller
Gimpus Stereophilus!
It is simple to fix a scratched up record which is annoying if not caused by grit particles, get rid of it and upgrade.
Jim West PA
Well-Known Member
Good to the point question thes. I've often wondered this myself.
I have 'fixed' a few skips before by knowing when it's coming and applying finger pressure to the head shell. In Essence, used the stylus to 'cut' thru the scratch/skip.
I'd NEVER do that with the carts and styli I have now.
My Sony USB TT with it's no name cart/stylus is a good 'tool' for this.
I also do not recommend you try this.
Good response Mr. Jones.:yes:
I'm gonna watch this thread.
I have 'fixed' a few skips before by knowing when it's coming and applying finger pressure to the head shell. In Essence, used the stylus to 'cut' thru the scratch/skip.
I'd NEVER do that with the carts and styli I have now.
My Sony USB TT with it's no name cart/stylus is a good 'tool' for this.
I also do not recommend you try this.
Good response Mr. Jones.:yes:
I'm gonna watch this thread.
Jim West PA
Well-Known Member
Or.......
put it in the pumpkin.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6XP4IX3ETM&feature=c4-overview&list=UUQCSz1bn0dqN_7Ot4aNMqWQ
pdm4606
Super Member
scratch
The problem is the tick or pop at a scratch.
I found that using an old cart with a new stylus tracking at 25 grams clears the pop by smashing a new track wall slightly. The deformation clears the vinyl away at the pop.
It is damaging to the rest of the record but works wonders on an old lp. I have an old Rolling Stone lp that was not playable. After 2 plays with the re track Shure M-7 set to 25 grams I can at least play the record and hear tunes. Not perfect but an improvement. I even tilt the cart at an angle to help with the re track.
First tilt to one side then tilt to the other side.
Paul
The problem is the tick or pop at a scratch.
I found that using an old cart with a new stylus tracking at 25 grams clears the pop by smashing a new track wall slightly. The deformation clears the vinyl away at the pop.
It is damaging to the rest of the record but works wonders on an old lp. I have an old Rolling Stone lp that was not playable. After 2 plays with the re track Shure M-7 set to 25 grams I can at least play the record and hear tunes. Not perfect but an improvement. I even tilt the cart at an angle to help with the re track.
First tilt to one side then tilt to the other side.
Paul
Once again, take the tip of a common everyday toothpick and massage the area of the suspected tick. Sometimes you may have to do this in both directions. The wood is kinder to the groove yet is strong enough to clear the groove. I haven't lost a record yet with this technique.
Things I have tried which are not near as effective: more weight on the cartridge (too much and the stylus can deform the groove), more weight plus playing the record backwards (AT-PL120 with scratching cartridge), an X-Acto knife (only for the steady of hand).
Things I have tried which are not near as effective: more weight on the cartridge (too much and the stylus can deform the groove), more weight plus playing the record backwards (AT-PL120 with scratching cartridge), an X-Acto knife (only for the steady of hand).
Last edited:
Jim West PA
Well-Known Member
Pretty cool 'tip'.
I can see this working.
IF, your eyes aren't ancient like mine and can actually see the effected area.
I'm still gonna try it.
Exactly Ken! Make a list of your stuff and let (keep) the hunt exciting!
Multiplex
Appease my earhole.
25 grams?! You should be able to hear both sides of the record at once with 25 grams VTF!
Addition: Although... that is an interesting thought. You'd think, for the most part, most scratches are going to create burs and divots near the top of the groove wall. I wonder if dragging a far wider 78 RPM stylus with a lot of weight through the upper part of the groove would help clear the junk near the surface? That way, a lower-riding LP stylus might not be as likely to encounter the noise or groove damage. :scratch2:
Last edited:
Pretty cool 'tip'.
I can see this working.
IF, your eyes aren't ancient like mine and can actually see the effected area.
View attachment 461175
I'm still gonna try it.
Magnifiers or an eye loupe do help. If you watch your record as it plays you can get a general idea of where the defect is by track number and a clock number (1 to 12 O'clock ) based on label orientation where 12:00 would be out from the top of the label. Remember you have to count backwards from 12:00 due to the record's rotation.
BuddhaBob
Active Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=0r7iae2rjWE
This guy uses a variety of methods. Including sandpaper. It looks real. Check it out for yourself. Makes me squeamish to watch though, you've been warned.
This guy uses a variety of methods. Including sandpaper. It looks real. Check it out for yourself. Makes me squeamish to watch though, you've been warned.
Agree with the toothpick 100% - have fixed a lot of damage with a toothpick - a good friend to lp's! Also, I learned over on Vinyl Engine a few years back that you can fill in deep gouges, etc. with a wax pencil - this has greatly softened a rouge ride when the stylus passes through.
fips152
Well-Known Member
I've successfully used the toothpick method on about dozen second-hand records. For a few of them the pop completely disappeared, but for most of them it reduced a loud pop to a faint pop.
The goal is to break or scrape off the part of the scratch where what should be a clean, pointy ridge, like an upside-down "V" at the top of a groove is more of an overhang like an upside-down "L". We want to remove the overhang and make the groove a continuous slope from the valley floor to the top of the ridge, more like a slash or reverse-slash character.
Figure out which band has the pop and about how far through the band it is. Then figure out where the scratch is by watching the label and noting the orientation of the label when the pop happens.
Turn off the turntable and reposition the record to that orientation to see what the "clock" position of the stylus is on the record when the pop occurs. I then pick up the record with a fingertip positioned right where the stylus would cross over the outer edge of the record to keep track of the "clock" position of the pop.
Set the record down on a flat surface and use a toothpick to polish away the pop. Hold the toothpick lined up with the groove as if you're trying to press the length of toothpick down into the groove, except that it's at an angle of about 30 degrees from the plane of the record, with the tip being pushed down into the groove as if you're going to run the toothpick around and around counterclockwise. Go back and forth with the tip of the toothpick over the pop, reposition the toothpick a groove or two further in, then further out, then further in, et cetera.
I usually use a fair amount of pressure and the tip of the toothpick gets mangled in the process, so I use the thicker round toothpicks, not the lightweight rectangular ones. I can almost always feel the burr of the overhang and can tell by feel when I've removed it.
WASH THE RECORD when you're done with the toothpick. You don't want the broken-off burr on the record when you play it.
Of course, if you're going to try this, try it first with a record you won't mind damaging if you mess up or if my instructions are faulty.
The goal is to break or scrape off the part of the scratch where what should be a clean, pointy ridge, like an upside-down "V" at the top of a groove is more of an overhang like an upside-down "L". We want to remove the overhang and make the groove a continuous slope from the valley floor to the top of the ridge, more like a slash or reverse-slash character.
Figure out which band has the pop and about how far through the band it is. Then figure out where the scratch is by watching the label and noting the orientation of the label when the pop happens.
Turn off the turntable and reposition the record to that orientation to see what the "clock" position of the stylus is on the record when the pop occurs. I then pick up the record with a fingertip positioned right where the stylus would cross over the outer edge of the record to keep track of the "clock" position of the pop.
Set the record down on a flat surface and use a toothpick to polish away the pop. Hold the toothpick lined up with the groove as if you're trying to press the length of toothpick down into the groove, except that it's at an angle of about 30 degrees from the plane of the record, with the tip being pushed down into the groove as if you're going to run the toothpick around and around counterclockwise. Go back and forth with the tip of the toothpick over the pop, reposition the toothpick a groove or two further in, then further out, then further in, et cetera.
I usually use a fair amount of pressure and the tip of the toothpick gets mangled in the process, so I use the thicker round toothpicks, not the lightweight rectangular ones. I can almost always feel the burr of the overhang and can tell by feel when I've removed it.
WASH THE RECORD when you're done with the toothpick. You don't want the broken-off burr on the record when you play it.
Of course, if you're going to try this, try it first with a record you won't mind damaging if you mess up or if my instructions are faulty.
Jim West PA
Well-Known Member
Thanks folks. All this talk of cleaning up the grooves of my records justifies me buying one of these.
http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Del..._2742273011_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381535258&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/Celestron-Del..._2742273011_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381535258&sr=1-1
Retired now with a lot more free time but when buying used records if there are any noticeable scratches the record goes back in the bin. With a few exceptions most records were pressed in the millions of copies and few would be worth the effort or pain to bother with scratched/dented records.
Son-of-Vere
Super Member
SoundsAlike
Super Member
There is some buzz around using sand paper ... don't believe me? Here's a good write up...
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bring-Ruined-Records-Back-to-Life/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Bring-Ruined-Records-Back-to-Life/
