• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Soldering issues

kidthorazine

kidthorazine

Active Member
I'm trying to unsolder this exploded cap on a marantz but its not giving. I've used a radioshack desolder pen (the expensive one) and the wick stuff but the damn thing refuses to budge. I'm trying not no burn up the board or get pissed and throw the whole thing in the trash so any help would be nice.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
you need more heat to melt those big globs!

be quick though and don't burn the board
 
Flux

kidthorazine said:
I'm trying to unsolder this exploded cap on a marantz but its not giving. I've used a radioshack desolder pen (the expensive one) and the wick stuff but the damn thing refuses to budge. I'm trying not no burn up the board or get pissed and throw the whole thing in the trash so any help would be nice.
Click to expand...

Put a dab of flux on the glob first, it will help heat transfer.
 
I'm using a 30 watt iron which is the biggest I have. So your saying I need to go out and buy 1 of those Weller pistol type irons ? If thats the case I see a dumpster in the marantz's near future.
 
try using the entire side, and not just the pointy tip of the iron. Make as much contact with the solder as you can. You'll need to remove the solder once it melts, the best way with a larger amount like that is with a desoldering tool(solder-sucker), either manual spring-loaded or electric will work
 
a regular soldering gun(not soldering pencil) would melt that solder in no time flat
 
Is the solder actually melting? If yes and you can't rock it a little to each side as you melt it the the cap is glued to the PCB and you'll need to be a bit more aggressive with the ol' finger pressure.
JimB
 
you have to remove ALL the solder

then use pliers to twist the tabs straight so they'll fit through the slots

then try and rock the cap, if it doesnt move, you'll need to get some acetone or similar at the glue to soften it (careful with acetone as it can blind you, it will eat plastic on contact)
 
Do you have a blob of solder on your tip, or are you using the tip dry when you try to melt the solder? It's important to have a well tinned tip with a blob of molten solder as it helps transfer heat to the joint. A dry tip is a bad thing. The blob of solder not only helps transfer heat, but also protects the tip from corrosion.
 
Take a deep breath and come back another day. As someone who has a lot of old projects around if you aren't finding satisfaction or enjoyment just step away. I know you aren't serious about the trash but that marantz will teach you to solder properly even if you never fix it.

Now I'm going to guess the tip is too small, not pre tinned or the glue thing. Have you been keeping the tip clean? The flux will start oxidizing the tip if you don't clean after use. Which keeps it from heating properly. You probably are rolling your eyes thinking you know all this but no one is there so these are guesses.

Anyway you will have these type problems with any gear (try removing a heat sink with 6-8 attachment points) so don't blame the marantz. :mad: Just work on it when you aren't stressed and look at it as training. Remember when you figured out that math problem at midnight that you'd been working on for an hour? Oh that's how you do it! Same thing.:yes:

Seem others have said the same thing while I typed so good luck.
 
First, see if there is a "macro" setting on your camera. If so, it's very useful in allowing the camera to focus correctly at short distances so that we can get a better look at what you're trying to show.
Second, if the cap is trashed anyway, get some flush cutting pliers (preferably shear cutters) and nip those leads off as close as you can to the circuit board. You may be able to cut the leads clear of the PCB pad, letting you just melt the lead stubs off the pads so that you can deal with removing the remainder of the cap without worrying about trashing the copper.
FWIW, it's just possible that it's leaked electrolyte sticking the cap to the board. Some electrolytes set up like resin once they're exposed to open air.
 
:lurk:

Sounds like you need to spend some quality time with that unit, a soldering iron, and some pliers. Don't stop till you get it out. Sometimes things just take time. Keep at it. You have my post of support.
 
It appears to be very "glued" to the board, tried flush cutting pliers but no go can't get them into position on either side. Gonna let it go for now as its going to take alot more then just unsoldering a couple pins and I am less then happy about this piece of crap
 
flux, flux, flux - Your iron is actually too much imo, I would not be applying even more heat.
My preference is the wick, but whichever way you use, always put a dab of flux on it before desoldering. If it does not get it all, put some more flux on it - easier to clean off excess flux then to start messing up the trace or other components because of too much heat.
 
Have you tried solder wick yet ?


Barney
 

Attachments

  • fba4064564c210d4.jpg
    fba4064564c210d4.jpg
    4.2 KB · Views: 5
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom