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Solen caps in NHT SuperZero make trumpet sound harsh and ear-hurting

I ended sticking with the Solens. They sound a lot better now and are not as harsh. They are actually pretty open and spacious sounding. They definitely help with the rolled off treble Dynacos are known for. That said, if you want an extended treble from these speakers go for it. I know I'll get a lot of crap from this post for supporting the Solens, but its my ears, gear, and opinion.
I certainly won’t you found a combination that works
Awesome!
 
I've used Solen caps and Mills resistors since about 1992 and never had anything to complain about with the combo. I've built high end single amp and multi amp systems with elaborate passive networks that were in world class SQ competition cars with Solen, used them in Polk SDA SRS 2's, Klipsch CF-3s, Heresys, AR11b's, Infinity RSIIIb's & Quantum 3's, and maybe 20 other pairs . Hell, I'll probably go with them in my L1230's and call it good as I won't hear the $70+ difference from them to higher end caps...thankfully.
 
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There are few "period" situations in audio. For sure not in a topic like this.
I know I ignited a couple of heated discussions here, but I am not upset about it. Debate is what gets us closer to the truth. I am not averse to replacement of caps, resistors and whatever. I am just not going to do it as a matter of course if I like what I am hearing. That be said, I have a pair of Castle Durham speakers that sound dead, even though the drivers are working. They probably do need a recap and someday I will get there. They will be my first recap project. But my ear has not found any reason with the previous dozens of speakers I have had to feel I have had to recap any of them. Now, if delving deeper into every pair of speakers you acquire floats your boat and you need to recap them, more power to you. Just a long as we appreciate the sound no matter how we get there. Cheers!
 
Driving equipment, listening room, overall system resolution will all make difference-as some system can/do emphasis certian frequencies, as well as listening room.
Not to mention differences in what each of us hears.
Their are certainly differences between crossover caps.
With the Great Heil-for example fairly easy to hear.
As I have found out, and was surprised by as well-the more carefully designed, more expensive caps seem to sound better.
Not always-but they tend to, especially as your system moves up in quality and resolution.
IMHO-no need to apologize for having good success with more budget caps.
But if you have a few extra bucks, and feel like experimenting take a look at Gee's reviews.
And think about your overall system tendencies, and your goals for the speakers.
I really like the Mundorf Evo Oils-and they are budget friendly-just a few extra bucks.
They are what I'm recommended now with ESS AMT3' rebuilds-
They also mix well with smaller value, and less expensive Jantzen Superior Z's, and a upgrade for the 3's overhaul.
They make the sound even fuller and sweeter-with out losing any clarity of the Evo oils.
I can't tell you why-but it simply works!
I think a bright system/speaker would benefit from a more neutral sounding cap-other then Solens-and when I read similiar post that have a harshness issue after recapping with Solens-that seems what they have.
Like smaller speakers-that can easily be out balanced tweet wise due to their smaller cabinets/woofers.
Just as a experiment-if your used to using Solens-splurge a bit on your next rebuild and try some Mundorf Evo Oils. A 16uf Solen is $7-The Mundorf $22. A $14 dollars difference-easy to save up for IMHO.( Or for example a more neutral cap Jantzen Standard Z caps are $12.30-$5 dollars difference.)
I think you will be thoroughly impressed.
And these probably aren't really high end caps-just good ones.
 
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I know I ignited a couple of heated discussions here, but I am not upset about it. Debate is what gets us closer to the truth. I am not averse to replacement of caps, resistors and whatever. I am just not going to do it as a matter of course if I like what I am hearing. That be said, I have a pair of Castle Durham speakers that sound dead, even though the drivers are working. They probably do need a recap and someday I will get there. They will be my first recap project. But my ear has not found any reason with the previous dozens of speakers I have had to feel I have had to recap any of them. Now, if delving deeper into every pair of speakers you acquire floats your boat and you need to recap them, more power to you. Just a long as we appreciate the sound no matter how we get there. Cheers!
Audio is a hobby for many here. Understanding, and improving what one has is part of it.
Not always just buying and consuming "as-is".
Speakers (usually vintage) are one of those components, that can be easily improved-not just with caps-if you have a understanding of your particular product-and what changes might improve it.
I agree-randomly throwing any parts into a component, and expecting improvement, is not wise.
But hey you might learn something as well.
But this thread-we are seeing-caps types/brands do make a difference. Good/bad-in between-but a difference never the less.
So understand what your doing, and be willing to do some experimenting/swapping if the first few tries are misfires.
Yep, time and money will be spent-like any other hobby/venture.
Not that different then the original designers of the components. Usually a few swings and misses before the final design that was marketed.
 
I've used Solen caps and Mills resistors since about 1992 and never had anything to complain about with the combo. I've built high end single amp and multi amp systems with elaborate passive networks that were in world class SQ competition cars with Solen, used them in Polk SDA SRS 2's, Klipsch CF-3s, Heresys, AR11b's, Infinity RSIIIb's & Quantum 3's, and maybe 20 other pairs . Hell, I'll probably go with them in my L1230's and call it good as I won't hear the $70+ difference from them to higher end caps...thankfully.
Is not hearing the difference a assumption-or from actual experience? High end vs entry level film caps.
Solens vs what for example?
In say a Klipsch Heresy?
 
as a few posters noted, if you speakers seem to be rolling off the highs, then the Solens may be a good choice for you. will help bring out some of those high frequencies. But if you have a speaker that is already pretty open on top, then the solens will be a bit much.. besides direct replacement, the other option is to add film bypasses to your existing caps. Assuming their are in good condition, the Nichicon XY series avaiable from Mouser and Digikey are fine options and very nice nice sounding. they can be purchased anywhere from 69 cents each to about $1.50 each. They are well made. Back in the days when I was in the sand camp (solid state) used a ton of them in SS circuits. They sound very good and are very reliable.

The MILLS wirewound resistors are also quite good. besides crossovers, they also work extremely well in tube gear to replace a dropping resistor...
 
Is not hearing the difference a assumption-or from actual experience? High end vs entry level film caps.
Solens vs what for example?
In say a Klipsch Heresy?

Let's see...I've used Dayton 5% & 1% with good results, Clarity Cap CSA, Sonicaps Mundorf, Bennics, and some others. I've never felt the need to spend the stupid amounts of money on higher end caps to squeeze that last .01% out of something. It's just not worth it to me. But like everything, we are all different.

Original Heresy tweeters, K-77's, needed all the help they could get on top end. Unless you swapped them for something better.
 
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Let's see...I've used Dayton 5% & 1% with good results, Clarity Cap CSA, Sonicaps Mundorf, Bennics, and some others. I've never felt the need to spend the stupid amounts of money on higher end caps to squeeze that last .01% out of something. It's just not worth it to me. But like everything, we are all different.

Original Heresy tweeters, K-77's, needed all the help they could get on top end. Unless you swapped them for something better.
Sure.
However, switching out to Mundorfs from Dayton/Bennics on my AMT3's where far from .01% improvement.
Broad brushing "expensive caps" as a only .01% does not make a lot of sense from my experience-and what I read here-other as well. Perhaps a case by case basis?:idea:
As mentioned earlier, some caps are only a few extra "stupid" dollars to make some good improvements..
If your repairing for customers/others-probably not worth experimenting--and going with a know cap/characteristics would make more sense.
 
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Going back to the original post, trumpets can sound harsh because -- often -- they are.

For two years in college, I had a fabulous player sitting directly behind me in set. (I played trombone, she played trumpet.) She was always in tune, always in time, letter perfect tones, and shrill as f*ck from four feet away.

It can be in the recording.
 
I went to a jazz concert last year and the whole horn section sounded good but was very shrill. It's just the nature of horns.
 
Going back to the original post, trumpets can sound harsh because -- often -- they are.

For two years in college, I had a fabulous player sitting directly behind me in set. (I played trombone, she played trumpet.) She was always in tune, always in time, letter perfect tones, and shrill as f*ck from four feet away.

It can be in the recording.
Sure-I'm assuming he would be talking about a recording he was very familiar with
 
Let's see...I've used Dayton 5% & 1% with good results, Clarity Cap CSA, Sonicaps Mundorf, Bennics, and some others. I've never felt the need to spend the stupid amounts of money on higher end caps to squeeze that last .01% out of something. It's just not worth it to me. But like everything, we are all different.

It is really no different than drag racing. That last fraction of a second dramatically increases costs and may not even be necessary, especially in sportsman classes where you are shooting for an index.

Also, like drag racing, one needs good "timing equipment" to access the value of any changes. You cannot rely on "the seat of your pants" if you want to be a contender.
 
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It is really no different than drag racing. That last fraction of a second dramatically increases costs and may not even be necessary, especially in sportsman classes where you are shooting for an index.

Also, like drag racing, one needs good "timing equipment" to access the value of any changes. You cannot rely of "the seat of your pants" if you want to be a contender.

True...I agree with that. I'm just not out chasing rainbows and unicorns or the checkered flag at the end of the drag strip. We're all different....we hear different...we have differing tastes.
 
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