JP
7480 74111110101115
Seems no one will ever know - absolutely nothing of any relevance to his testing is disclosed.
Solid copper vs stranded copper speaker wire?
- Thread starter Lossless
- Start date
Seems no one will ever know - absolutely nothing of any relevance to his testing is disclosed.
bimasta
Addicted Member
Whoa. Deep, man.snap, snap, snap . . .
Sorry man. People have very different thresholds for aerobullosis and I should have considered that. I'll keep it in the wading pool in future, promise.
Mister Pig
Pigamus Maximus
JP
7480 74111110101115
I’m not - have well seasoned materials science and physicist friends that have hands-on knowledge on the subject matter. Skin effect alone as the reason for their subjective difference is an extraordinary claim.
Mister Pig
Pigamus Maximus
JP
7480 74111110101115
I didn’t get the memo that I’m not allowed to contribute my knowledge, observations, or opinions if they don’t fully align with yours.
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Mister Pig
Pigamus Maximus
I use a flat Straight Wire cable with many smaller gauge solid conductors. I’ve had it for years, nothing has really topped it for a nice smooth presentation. And what’s more, I never feel like I’m missing anything. I’ll upgrade, sure. But half of that may be to have prettier wires, so there’s that too. It’s ugly.
It’ll cost to really better this stuff, considering what I’m hearing right now. Sleeper wire.
It’ll cost to really better this stuff, considering what I’m hearing right now. Sleeper wire.
woofercooker
Well-Known Member
For me, I use 16 gauge stranded speaker wire for my vintage "mid-fi" speakers.. For my newer bi-wire type speakers I use Nordost blue heaven "Flat type" speaker cables. I guess they would be somewhat stranded.
Blue Shadow
Waiting for Vintage Gear from this century
Will we have these same arguments when we go wireless and have to maintain the atmosphere to a certain chemical percentage range, humidity and temperature for the ideal transmission of the signal? Is what was Bell Labs working on that yet?
Not to resurrect my old post, but only to clarify JoeESP9 was the one belittling and comparing my solid copper core 4 conductor speaker wire to generic .43 cents a foot Lowe’s home wiring, only because he uses signed DH Labs Q-10 signature series super superior silver plated $100 per foot speaker wires. At $100 a foot you would hope they were solid silver and not just silver plated.
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Dr. Ears
Super Member
I use Dueland 2.0, but I have not tried their latest wire 3.0, which is a heavier gauge.
They are both four nines silver ribbon wires, which feature natural silk dielectrics.
The first natural silk dielectric is embedded with oil at high pressure, the second natural silk dielectric is embedded with a chemical designed to repel moisture.
I use their 1.0, which is a smaller gauge than the 2.0 for hook-up wire.
My entire system uses one of the 3 gauges.
Their wire is nothing short of "magical".
I terminate the speaker cables with KLE pure silver bayyonets.
My interconnects use the pure silver ribbon wire for the positive lead only.
I use a stranded copper wire for the ground.
CRITICAL: the leads meet only at the KLE pure silver Absolute Harmony RCA plugs.
All of the ingredients can be purchased from Parts Connexion.
If, I couldn't hear a difference, I wouldn't spend the money.
Both my speaker cables and interconnects were created after I tried dozens of types of wires and terminators.
I don't believe that the price you pay has much to do with the sound quality.
For the record, my favorite pre-amp / tube buffer is the Japanese version of the FX Audio, which only costs $68.49 delivered, which reinforces my comment that the price you pay doesn't have much to do with performance.
DIY speaker cables and interconnects make a lot of sense because the OEM only keeps about 20% of the list price, which means you are not paying for the other 80%.
They are both four nines silver ribbon wires, which feature natural silk dielectrics.
The first natural silk dielectric is embedded with oil at high pressure, the second natural silk dielectric is embedded with a chemical designed to repel moisture.
I use their 1.0, which is a smaller gauge than the 2.0 for hook-up wire.
My entire system uses one of the 3 gauges.
Their wire is nothing short of "magical".
I terminate the speaker cables with KLE pure silver bayyonets.
My interconnects use the pure silver ribbon wire for the positive lead only.
I use a stranded copper wire for the ground.
CRITICAL: the leads meet only at the KLE pure silver Absolute Harmony RCA plugs.
All of the ingredients can be purchased from Parts Connexion.
If, I couldn't hear a difference, I wouldn't spend the money.
Both my speaker cables and interconnects were created after I tried dozens of types of wires and terminators.
I don't believe that the price you pay has much to do with the sound quality.
For the record, my favorite pre-amp / tube buffer is the Japanese version of the FX Audio, which only costs $68.49 delivered, which reinforces my comment that the price you pay doesn't have much to do with performance.
DIY speaker cables and interconnects make a lot of sense because the OEM only keeps about 20% of the list price, which means you are not paying for the other 80%.
JoeESP9
ESL's & tubes since 83
Not to resurrect my old post, but only to clarify JoeESP9 was the one belittling and comparing my solid copper core 4 conductor speaker wire to generic .43 cents a foot Lowe’s home wiring, only because he uses signed DH Labs Q-10 signature series super superior silver plated $100 per foot speaker wires. At $100 a foot you would hope they were solid silver and not just silver plated.
Sorry if you thought I was belittling your choice. I wasn't. My apologies if you think I did so to lord it over others. I moved from Kimber TC8 to the Q-10 fifteen years ago. The move was made because I thought (still do) Silver plated Q-10 sounded better. The 20' lengths of TC8 were moved to my surround speakers.
Frankly, I don't care what you use. I tried solid core cable and decided that my TC8 sounded better.
Lighten up!
Please note: I've never mentioned the price of anything.
FWIW: My Q-10's are 6' long with banana's on both ends.
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Apologies accepted, but I hope you understand how it could have be taken for condescending demeanor.
JoeESP9
ESL's & tubes since 83
In the posts you've quoted where is there any mention of the cost of Q10? In any case, 15 years ago it was quite a bit cheaper.
IMO the important part is where I said that solid core cables were stiff and not easy to manipulate. They didn't sound better to me either.
Am I still just as condescending if I mention that your post contains screens from a phone? I don't use a phone for this sort of thing. A computer is simply a better way. If only for the screen size.
FWIW: I've tried lots of speaker cables before settling on the Q-10. I even braided a pair of the "full bore" CAT-5 cables (32 twisted pairs). It has a relatively high capacitance and causes high frequency oscillation in some amplifiers.
Warning: Don't use it with Adcom power amplifiers. Their wide bandwidth and lack of protective circuits allow them to produce high frequency oscillation. Some Nordost cables cause the same oscillation. In both cases a Zobel network solves the problem.
IMO the important part is where I said that solid core cables were stiff and not easy to manipulate. They didn't sound better to me either.
Am I still just as condescending if I mention that your post contains screens from a phone? I don't use a phone for this sort of thing. A computer is simply a better way. If only for the screen size.
FWIW: I've tried lots of speaker cables before settling on the Q-10. I even braided a pair of the "full bore" CAT-5 cables (32 twisted pairs). It has a relatively high capacitance and causes high frequency oscillation in some amplifiers.
Warning: Don't use it with Adcom power amplifiers. Their wide bandwidth and lack of protective circuits allow them to produce high frequency oscillation. Some Nordost cables cause the same oscillation. In both cases a Zobel network solves the problem.
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I don’t think that the convenience of using a iPhone rather than my iPad or laptop for AK makes me lesser or better than anyone. It’s just easier for me and my personal preference to use my iPhone. If you prefer a using a computer, then that is what you feel works best for you. That’s not a condescending attitude.In the posts you've quoted where is there any mention of the cost of Q10? In any case, 15 years ago it was quite a bit cheaper.
IMO the important part is where I said that solid core cables were stiff and not easy to manipulate. They didn't sound better to me either.
Am I still just as condescending if I mention that your post contains screens from a phone? I don't use a phone for this sort of thing. A computer is simply a better way. If only for the screen size.
Now, if you were to say something like, “My $2195 MacBook Super Pro is what I use for AK. But just to let all know that can’t afford a MacBook Super Pro like mine, $29 prepaid internet capable cell phones are available for those kind of people that can only shop at discount stores.” That would be a condescending attitude.
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Yes, I have a great sense of humor. I just have learned in life to confront offensive behavior so that we can have mutual respect for one another. That’s all.
Now for the sour Apple products; I just liked Steve Job era products like the iPod 5.5 classic, which was their best sounding iPod that used audiophile DACs manufactured by Wolfson. Apple products are not innovative like they were when the original iPhone was introduced. The Apple logo nowadays is more of a status symbol, than a mark of innovation. Blue color text indicates that you’re an overpriced iPhone owner. What, Your text are green? Your’e not worthy using that cheap Android phone.
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