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Some interesting 60's? speakers I picked up...

Interesting find... you could have fun with those and the price was right! :yes:

Scott
 
Zilch said:
"Bottom" like mine are set up, or in the horizontal orientation?

It matters with respect to what's appropriate to load in them....

Vertical like yours. The bottom is unfinished and has casters on it now, but there are old screw holes there too.
 
Manitoulin said:
Capacitor

That's what I thought...I can't find one. :scratch2:

And I listened to them again. I don't hear any sound out of the tweeters.

I also just noticed that on one of the speakers, the one shown in the pics, the front woofer hole is cut out more to fit the size of the woofer in there now. On the other cab, the woofer is too big for the hole. So these have definitely been played around with a bit.
 
I like "UTAH"'s. But I love those cabinets......
Would you be interested in loading them with
12 inch Peavey Black Widows?
Cast baskets, 4 inch voice coils, 8 inch magnets.
:guitar: :guitar: :guitar: :guitar: :guitar: :guitar:
 
mxlews said:
Hmm..don't think I really want to spend much money on these.
If you heard these, it'd likely change your mind about that....

speakerlust said:
Would you be interested in loading them with
12 inch Peavey Black Widows?
And how would you address the box tuning?

With random toilet-bowl-cleaner-can ports like the previous owner of these? :thmbsp:
 
Woofers are from JBL L100s, plenty available on eBay, prices vary. 123A, -1, -3, 2213, H.

Horn is JBL Progressive Transition waveguide, $10 apiece.

Compression driver is BMS 4550, $115 apiece.

Throat adapters, $6.50 each at Parts Express.

Front baffle, a friend made for me for two Twix. I gave $15 for the material.

Crossovers, DIY, $100 in parts for both, as I recall.

Grilles I don't know yet, so,

~$550 - $600 the pair, when I'm done.
 
Those cabs are beautiful, and well built.

You have a myriad of options with them, including the Utahs.

Great find.:thmbsp:
 
I'm still wondering if the Utahs are any good, and how I fix the tweeters. The tweeter wires seem to be soldered to the metal ring on the woofer basket and that's where they end. No cap. ???

I'm also wondering about my options for the future of these speakers.
 
mxlews said:
I'm still wondering if the Utahs are any good, and how I fix the tweeters. The tweeter wires seem to be soldered to the metal ring on the woofer basket and that's where they end. No cap. ???
Remove a Utah from the cabinet so you can inspect them better. Do the wires not exit the rear of the basket? Nothing about that model on the internet?

mxlews said:
I'm also wondering about my options for the future of these speakers.
I linked you to how just about anything might be put in them. If you look on the inside behind the insulation at the front, you'll likely find the screws securing the baffle to the box. If they go together like mine, all you need is a new baffle for whatever driver load you want.

The boxes are 3 cuft. That defines an "alignment" for woofers. The Utahs may or may not be appropriate, but it's for certain that someone who didn't have a clue what they were doing stuck those in there. I seriously doubt that was the original load by the builder.

http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/Debertin/utah.htm

I'm starting to suspect they are acoustic suspension woofers, maybe. :dunno:
 
Zilch was referring to me as the other AKer, the horns are $20 or so, the compression tweeters are around $260 for the set and the 123A-1 woofers are $125 or so for a pair. Crossover component would be around $60 or so
So far i've only built the baffles and don't have the compression tweets yet.

Zilch, those look better and better everytime I see them. I need to get working on mine, but time is so limited and summer semester will be even worse this time. :(
 
I agree with Zilch -- you could make those into some pretty nice speakers. Load them up with the proper JBL drivers and I don't think that you'll regret it. Would love to find a pair like that to add on to my endless project list. :D
 
I removed the drivers and checked out the tweeter wires. One wire goes to the positive post on the woofer, and the other wire is grounded to the basket. No cap to be seen.
 
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