Metalownz
Audiophile? Getting there
Ah ok makes sense. So whoever cut my armboard botched it im guessing.It's cut into the board. You'd need to put a wooden plate over it, with another pre-drilled oval.
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Ah ok makes sense. So whoever cut my armboard botched it im guessing.It's cut into the board. You'd need to put a wooden plate over it, with another pre-drilled oval.
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Or it's set up for another tonearm. The one on mine is thin 3/8-inch plywood. It would be easy to fabricate a couple with different pivot points and/or slots for different arms.Ah ok makes sense. So whoever cut my armboard botched it im guessing.
I wish i knew someone that knew how to do this. Lol. Im good with refurb but not that portion of it. LolOr it's set up for another tonearm. The one on mine is thin 3/8-inch plywood. It would be easy to fabricate a couple with different pivot points and/or slots for different arms.
You need to follow the arm manufacturer's template to get the best range of adjustment.
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Anyone on your street with woodworking machines? He could prolly crank out 5 in two hours, all spec'ed to whatever you needed.I wish i knew someone that knew how to do this. Lol. Im good with refurb but not that portion of it. Lol
Oh that part i know. But to spec it to the exact distance pivot point to the platter has to be precise.Anyone on your street with woodworking machines? He could prolly crank out 5 in two hours, all spec'ed to whatever you needed.
Most tonearm companies have 1:1 templates you can follow (or find online). It doesn't have to be to the 0.1mm, but the closer, the easier it will be to do the node point adjustments.Oh that part i know. But to spec it to the exact distance pivot point to the platter has to be precise.
I play with the lid down and never paid attention to it but if it hit before I would think I have noticed.Can you play an LP without the counterweight hitting the dust cover? My 3009 with the heavier weight barely makes it. I never play with the dust cover on, anyhow.
You'd sure have a big skip in the record.I play with the lid down and never paid attention to it but if it hit before I would think I have noticed.
I also forgot to mention that when i bought my PS-2251 the guy threw in this armboard. I believe its for an SME arm although im not sure which model. But id be willing to buy an SME arm to put on this table. Its that good. Anyone know what possible arm could have went with this board?
How is the adjustment range on the tonearm's knurled knobs?It is for any SME tonearm.
Sometimes the cut is done in that way, not "slanted".
I have had two turntables adapted for SME where the oval was set up vertically, like in your example.
This is good news! Im thinking of getting an SME arm. Now that im confident that ill be able to use this board im going to expedite the process.It is for any SME tonearm.
Sometimes the cut is done in that way, not "slanted".
I have had two turntables adapted for SME where the oval was set up vertically, like in your example.
This is such excellent info. Thank you for sharing it!If you want to use your unipivot, there are SME adaptors on Ebay for under $50. That way there is no need to recut the arm board. I would just make sure that the size of the hole in the adaptor is large enough to fit the tonearm. The current cutout should also fit any SME 9" toneam, the 12" arms definitely not, and the 10" 3010R and M2-10 might not fit either.
And good luck whatever arm you choose
I have zero experience with that Rabco arm. To make it 100% reliable would be a whole new learning experience for me.My "new" 2251, with Rabco SL8e linear tracking tonearm. Filthy and sad.
And a big shout out to Mr Boochie, his excellent photo sans arm board at the beginning of the thread confirmed that I cannot use a long tonearm without metal cutting. Thanks so much for saving me a lot of grief.