Sony c89es belt source...

[Heatvent]

This Ebay listing has replacement belts and lists a couple of compatible models. The pictures in the listing match and I checked the manual for the CDP-C801ES and part numbers are the same as the CDP-87ES for the table/carousel. FYI, the manual is also a little more detailed and might be a good resource as much of the construction looks to be the same.

SONY CDP-C801ES CDP-87ES CDP-C89 Platter BELT replacement rev. 2.5 "REAL BELT"

I think I might get this belt and also keep an eye out for the 7 series models to see if I can find a broken one with a good plastic platter if the belt doesn't work.

 

[Heatvent]

BTW, here is another spot that looks like the gear tore out the cogs on the belt. You can also see the gear is fairly dirty with remnants from the belt.

Not sure why Sony didn't make the plastic gear a little wider, it basically cuts right through the belt. A little more surface area seems like it could be helpful.

 

[Heatvent]

Finally, just wondering if anyone found a replacement for the ribbed belt that opens/closes the table/carousel?

Would be good to replace this while I have it apart. Haven't looked at it yet but assume it will go someday and would at least pickup a replacement.

If not, one thing I did think of would be could you just use 3 normal belts, one in each rib? Or a perhaps a flat belt or some combination of the two?

Just a thought for anyone trying to replace this.

 

[Heatvent]

Below are models that I believe have the compatible plastic carousel (Sony part number 4-926-383-11)...

CDP-C8ESD
CDP-C700
CDP-C800
CDP-C77ES
CDP-C701ES
CDP-C79ES
CDP-C69ES

Probably want to confirm in the service manual but these are the ones I found.

 

[Heatvent]

I checked on the tray belt and it seems to be in OK shape. It's a plastic-like material (maybe urethane?) that has a small amount of stretch but much less stretch than rubber belts. It is a bit loose but I think that is how most drawer belts are fitted, although it may have stretched a little. I measured at approximately 170mm circumference and 3mm width. Below are pictures.

Would be great to replace while I have it open but I am not seeing any options available for this belt.

 

[Blue Shadow]

The earlier CDCs also have compatible trays. The C705 has a plastic tray 4-926-383-01 which is smooth plastic. Don’t know if it swaps to the CDP-C75ES and -85- models which both use the 4-926-383-11, mentioned. This one has what appears to be flocked plastic, not smooth, something to make the tray quieter. I have a 705 and 75 with the 75 having a few other mechanical noise reductions incorporated, metal front piece to the tray and chunk of bitumen glued to the inside of the top. Makes it a heavier unit.

I haven’t compared the two sonically but did upgrade the output chip to vast improvement in the 705. The 75 has different output electronics. These three all use the same service manual

 

[Scotophor]

It is a bit loose

From your picture, I think it's too loose. If it's 170 mm now, you should probably be looking for a 165 mm belt if you can find one in urethane, maybe 160 mm in rubber.

 

[Heatvent]

Below are models that I believe have the compatible plastic carousel (Sony part number 4-926-383-11)...

CDP-C8ESD
CDP-C700
CDP-C800
CDP-C77ES
CDP-C701ES
CDP-C79ES
CDP-C69ES
CDP-C75ES
CDP-C85ES

Updated for the 75/85 models.

 

[Heatvent]

The earlier CDCs also have compatible trays. The C705 has a plastic tray 4-926-383-01 which is smooth plastic. Don’t know if it swaps to the CDP-C75ES and -85- models which both use the 4-926-383-11, mentioned. This one has what appears to be flocked plastic, not smooth, something to make the tray quieter. I have a 705 and 75 with the 75 having a few other mechanical noise reductions incorporated, metal front piece to the tray and chunk of bitumen glued to the inside of the top. Makes it a heavier unit.

I haven’t compared the two sonically but did upgrade the output chip to vast improvement in the 705. The 75 has different output electronics. These three all use the same service manual

I left off the -01 variant because in the CDP-C87ES manual it says the C715 uses this but also lists a different tray number. I might work but because the tray number was different I wasn't certain. For the -11 variant, the same tray number is also used so I was sure the -11 variant would work.

I added the C75/85ES to the list. Thanks!

 

[Heatvent]

From your picture, I think it's too loose. If it's 170 mm now, you should probably be looking for a 165 mm belt if you can find one in urethane, maybe 160 mm in rubber.

Agreed. I didn't use it much but the drawer did seem to open/close fine. If I have problems, however, I was thinking of trying 3 rubber belts probably somewhere around 160-165mm. And possible also getting a flat belt to go around those.

Another alternative would be to 3d print a new pulley that's a little bigger or try to put in some kind of belt tensioner to take up the slack. I don't think these belts are supposed to be very tight because it takes a little effort to remove the belt in its current state. In other words, it doesn't just fall off an I have to carefully stretch and slide it over the pulley.

I am going to leave for right now and see how well the drawer works. If it gets to a point where it is not working / frustrating to use, I will try some of these other options. Of course if someone knows where to get a direct replacement, that would be the best option.

Thanks!

 

[Scotophor]

The way to get these belts off/on easily is to work it over the edge of a pulley (the large one is usually easier) while rotating the pulleys. Sometimes you can take off a pulley from its shaft, or pulley and shaft (pulley and motor, etc.) together, but that's rarely easier or necessary.

 

[Heatvent]

The way to get these belts off/on easily is to work it over the edge of a pulley (the large one is usually easier) while rotating the pulleys. Sometimes you can take off a pulley from its shaft, or pulley and shaft (pulley and motor, etc.) together, but that's rarely easier or necessary.

That's exactly what I had to do. So the belt may be a little looser than new, but it's not loose enough that you can slide off the pulleys. You have to work it around and rotate which makes me think it's not too far out of spec. If it were a lot harder to do this I am not sure the belt has enough flex to get over the pulleys. It is possible that it did loose some stretchiness as well.

Without a good replacement, this is what I have to work with anyway.

Thanks

 

[HBTim]

I found an 89 at Goodwill for $25, only to find that the tray won't rotate. I stumbled on this thread and think that the belt must be the problem. The step-by-step instructions from @HBTim are great....except in those instructions, the main tray is already removed from the chassis. I can't figure out how to remove it and don't want to force it and break something. Can anyone help?

Hey bud, look at the picture I provided in the begging of this thread, maybe 4th one down, with the flat blade screw driver. The tray seemed to be held under the tab portion of this part. I wedged a flat blade in this position in the picture and pried it slightly against the tray to just pass the retaining lip of this plastic part. I was able to create just enough space to remove the tray. Let me know if you need more info on it.

 

[Heatvent]

Update...

So I ended up purchasing the platter belt off of Ebay. It is OK and seems to work. My main issues are it was expensive and there is a seam. This is a T2.5 (or 2.5GT) belt that is 6mm wide (the original is actually 7mm but should work) and the seller made by cutting a little long, cutting the teeth off the overlap (maybe 5 teeth) and then gluing together. Obviously, this leaves a bulge where the seam is at and may not be the strongest / could separate or break over time. Also, a little concern whether this puts additional wear/tear no the gear.

I did look around and could not find a custom made belt that could be used. The specs you would be looking for is a 6 or 7mm wide GT2.5 or 2.5T belt with 420 teeth and 1050mm in length. FYI, if you take 420 x 2.5 = 1050. This is the same as per the post referenced below...

https://www.tapeheads.net/threads/c...d-changers-are-available.81549/post-775494052

It's possible there is someone who makes custom belts that could be better. Or you can easily find 6mm wide GT2.5 timing belt on Aliexpress/elsewhere and make your own. Just need a strong rubber adhesive for the seam. You may also be able to find 7mm wide belt but 6mm is more common.

I am waiting to put together as I am waiting on the belt for the carousel (ordered) and looking into options for the tray belt (ribbed belt). There is a company called West Coast belts that say they can possibly make the belt but I am waiting on confirmation as well as a price. If they can at a reasonable price, I will probably order a few sizes to see what fits best and will update the thread with what I find out.

Thanks!

 

[Scotophor]

If you make your own belt by cutting longer belt material, there are a couple of options to make a smoother and stronger transition at the seam, providing that you have a sharp enough knife and possibly can make a jig to guide your cuts. One is to cut diagonally across the belt like the first drawing below. Another is to cut diagonally through the thickness of the belt like the second drawing. A third option would be the most difficult, to combine these angled cuts into a compound miter joint. Alignment is critical with the first and third versions, so the belt's ribs are straight and not offset across the seam.



Finally, the seam could be reinforced on the back with a low-stretch thin fabric, such as bed sheet or pillowcase material, to have minimal effect on the belt's overall thickness but be tough and flexible.

 

[Heatvent]

For what it's worth, I verified the length and teeth for the platter belt. 420 teeth, T2.5, 7mm wide and 1050mm long are all correct.

I haven't found a premade replacement. Only thing I found that was close on AliExpress was a 6mm wide 1070mm long and 428 teeth belt. That obviously wouldn't work and they didn't have the 1050mm size. Most other premade belts were much shorter around 500mm long.

The Ebay belt seems to work or as mentioned above, you can track down T2.5 6mm rubber timing belt to make your own using the techniques described.

 

[Heatvent]

For what it's worth, I verified the length and teeth for the platter belt. 420 teeth, T2.5, 7mm wide and 1050mm long are all correct.

I haven't found a premade replacement. Only thing I found that was close on AliExpress was a 6mm wide 1070mm long and 428 teeth belt. That obviously wouldn't work and they didn't have the 1050mm size. Most other premade belts were much shorter around 500mm long.

The Ebay belt seems to work or as mentioned above, you can track down T2.5 6mm rubber timing belt to make your own using the techniques described.

The Ebay belt actually didn't work for me, it was too thick where it was mended together to make a loop and was binding the gears. I am attempting to make my own and I think I have stumbled on the original is not exactly T2.5, maybe something slightly less. If you use T2.5, from what I can tell, you want to use maybe 418 teeth or at most 419 teeth, otherwise the belt might be slightly loose. I need to experiment with this but I think 418 teeth gives a really tight fit.

 

[Heatvent]

The Ebay belt actually didn't work for me, it was too thick where it was mended together to make a loop and was binding the gears. I am attempting to make my own and I think I have stumbled on the original is not exactly T2.5, maybe something slightly less. If you use T2.5, from what I can tell, you want to use maybe 418 teeth or at most 419 teeth, otherwise the belt might be slightly loose. I need to experiment with this but I think 418 teeth gives a really tight fit.

Ok, I made a belt yesterday out of T2.5 6mm timing belt from Amazon with 420 teeth and it seems tight enough. I built a small jig to cut out the parts where the seam overlaps and used a small square file to try to make everything fit well. I thought I had a pretty good seam, but it does bind slightly on a couple of the teeth so it must be a little raised. I will need to take the belt off and try to take a little material off to see if I can thin it out by the seam to get it to move smoothly. There seems to be a fairly tight tolerance to work with here. So spending your time to get a very clean seam on the belt is critical.

I will be glad to have this part done, but still need to turn my attention to the table belt which appears to be in good shape but a bit loose. I may try to 3D print some kind of tensioner or try to print a replacement belt out of TPU. Not sure how well the latter would hold up and printing the fine details of the belt is a bit difficult on a 3D printer so this will take some trial and error for sure.

 

[Heatvent]

The belt seems to work but you do have to file or sand down the inside of the belt where the seam is at quite a bit so there is absolutely no bulge at the seam. Otherwise, the motor will bind when the gear gets to the seam.

You should push the belt to the bottom of the slot in the plotter since the gear aligns with the bottom of the platter.

 

[Heatvent]

Below are models that I believe have the compatible plastic carousel (Sony part number 4-926-383-11)...

CDP-C8ESD
CDP-C700
CDP-C800
CDP-C77ES
CDP-C701ES
CDP-C79ES
CDP-C69ES
CDP-C75ES
CDP-C85ES
CDP-C67ES

Updated for the 67ES model.