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Sony TA-4650 Restoration

ahess

Member
I'm glad to be adding something to the forum after having followed so many posts!

This is a restoration project for my first-ever audio purchase--a TA-4650 from an enlightened stereo person who brought me into the audiophile world when I was 16. There is a lot of love in this device!


Background

I’ve been using just the amp section, connected to a tube-modified Logitech Transporter as a preamp. The Sony stopped working, then later I heard a “pop” from the speakers. The speaker protection circuit doesn’t kick in anymore--no “click” 5-10 seconds after turn on. I probed voltage on the power board according to the schematic and it seems okay (values are higher than listed (e.g., ~100 rather than ~78, but I understand that there are reasons for that). I’m assuming, then, that the power amp board is where the problem is. The vfets seem good: S-D measures ~1.6 ohms and S-G and D-G pass the diode test. I’ve taken the vfets out.

I’m a self-taught electronics/DIY guy. I can measure continuity, read resistor bands, solder, discharge capacitors, but don’t understand much of the schematics of the Sony. I’ve combed the posts here and gained an enormous amount of information about this amp and what to do, I also have the manual, schematics, board diagrams, and service bulletins for setting bias, replacing 1.5k resistors, and testing the vfets.

I started testing components (sorry, I forgot to take a before pic). I quickly found that some of the resistors that are in a line on both edges of the board were burnt--measuring over 30k instead of 22k and one was completely open. My theory at this point is that these resistors increased in value (I understand that happens over time) and then one finally burned out. That’s all I’ve found and I’m hoping that is all that’s wrong with the amp.

Echowars has recommended that I try to determine the cause of the failure rather than just replacing everything. If you can offer any insights, I’d greatly appreciate it. At the same time, I would want to upgrade the components, so have decided to go ahead with that (2 birds, and all that). If you can offer suggestions for my plan, that would be really helpful:

Plan
  1. Test all the resistors, capacitors, diodes and transistors out of circuit for the power amp board..
  2. Replace all power supply and power amp caps, resistors, pots, and the death diodes. I’ve started putting together a Mouser parts list. Here it is.
  3. Replace four 1.5k resistors with four 3.3k resistors, as per service bulletin.
  4. Set the DC bias to max, install the vfets (new insulators and grease), then set bias to 50v, as per service bulletin #62.
  5. Replace the 2-prong electrical plug with a grounded 3-prong.
  6. Have a beer and listen to music.
  7. Later, maybe replace the power supply/power amp plugs with soldered, wire-wound connections.

Questions
  1. Any thoughts about what actually happened, and other courses of action I should take?
  2. When ordering components, can I go up in voltage for caps (e.g., 10v instead of 6.3v) and in watts for resistors (e.g., 1w instead of 1/4w, 3w instead of 2w)?
  3. Does my plan make sense? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can offer. I’ll post pics of the finished work!

Andrew
 
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Echowars has recommended that I try to determine the cause of the failure rather than just replacing everything

Absolutely - sounds like you are onto it by removing the VFETS. Check and replace those dodgy resistors first then replace the death diodes - you will no doubt be aware of the many threads on AK about VFET amplifier troubleshooting. Yes identify the problems first, then upgrade.

Set the DC bias to max

Is this correct?
 
I'm glad the VFETs are ok, as it sounds like they are. It sounds like you lost a driver on one channel. It is likely now shorted. If so, you will have a large DC bias on the emitter (well, source) resistors. These resistors are usually big white square ceramic/concrete power parts although I don't remember what they look like in a 4650.

There a double-diodes in the bias circuit (and a third in the diff amp current source IIRC) that are always replaced. Two series 1N4148s do the job nicely.
 
Right. I'm on to the double-diodes.

The "bias to max" comment should have been "dc bias adjust resistor to max" based on the bulletin Here. Then it seems you install the vfets and reset the dc bias (I've got to learn what that means) to....50?
 
Sorry, my post should read "If so, you will have a large DC voltage...." instead saying DC bias. Too confusing. Anyway, once you find out which channel is acting up and the polarity of the voltage, it should be easier to find the problem from there.
 
So I've almost finished swapping out all the electrolytic caps and resistors. I'm fairly proud of my soldering skills at this point. The power supply runs without exploding and the voltage more or less matches what is listed on the schematic.

Questions

Are these or these okay to replace the two bias pots and the pot on the power supply? They are 1k but the originals are listed as 2.2k.

The resistors (many of them) were higher ohm than they were listed at, and the caps were also higher uF (e.g., 134uF instead of 100uF for all of the 100uF caps). Any thoughts on why?

This weekend I expect to put in the remaining power amp components, measure and calibrate, then listen to the result.

Thanks,
A

Oh, and pics are forthcoming.
 
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Dammit!

I finished all the caps and resistors for the power amp. Checked all the traces. Then, when I powered it up, transistor Q405 (I think that is part of the speaker protection circuit) smoked and popped a hole in its side.

Help!!

I'm going to go over all the resistor values to make sure I didn't screw up there. But what would account for this?

What are the chances I've blown more than that transistor? What should I look for?

Also, the transistor is 2SA678. What is a suitable replacement? I'll check the other transistors, but should I replace all of them, just in case? The others are:

2SC634A
2SC926A
2SC1124

Help?
 
Update:
Q404 and Q406 both seem dead. They are measuring either .02 or open on all leads. Q407 and Q408 seem okay.

Again, help?
 
Okay. I really need some help with this. Here's the latest:

I was optimistic that the burnt transistors were just in the speaker protection circuit, and that the neighboring components tested okay. I figured that either I had gotten the wiring wrong, put in a faulty component, or maybe fried the transistor by soldering too long (I'm pretty quick with the gun - :)). I've triple checked the wiring, and gone over all the caps and their orientation.

With just the power supply plugged in, I get readings that are in the ballpark but higher than listed on the schematic:

listed/actual
-43/-47.5
75/97.5
130/140
100/104.5
78/102.8 - to the A board
20/19.6
36/42.5
-75/-92.5

I get from another post that this isn't too abnormal. But then I connected the power amp board and - with the blown speaker protection transistors out of the board - I got REVERSE readings:

76/-40
-38/27.5
75/-40
-75/47.5
-38/27.5

Then, while I was puzzling over this, I saw smoke and cap C420 started bulging. *&%$#@%!!

How does the voltage go negative from power supply to power amp?
Do I now have to test ALL the amp components to make sure they aren't fried?
Please advise.

Schematics

Latest pics: amp1, amp2
 
Wow, I feel for you but I have absolutely no idea what is going on with your amp. I suspect something fundamental has changed. No chance you got one of the connectors backwards?
 
Triple-checked those as well. The only things replaced were resistors, caps, and diodes. All are aligned.
 
I hate Sony's schematic markings...they changed a few times over the years, and it's maddening.

Here, the cap symbols have NO +/- markings, except the way the symbol is drawn. This style I call the 'cup and plug'. Look at the symbol and you'll get it. The 'cup' is negative, and the 'plug' is positive. At any rate, you need to power it up with the amp board removed. Verify that you can get proper voltages from the supply before going any further.

C420 is a simple filter, and gets voltage from the main high-current unregulated supply (negative side) through a 1K resistor. If the cap smoked, the resistor is probably wasted as well. The supply voltage coming directly from the big 4700uf 50V caps should be in the upper 40's at the worst, unless you have a multivoltage model set to the wrong voltage. Please check this (small removable rectangular cover on the back panel). About the only other way is that it was installed backwards.

Oh, and the output of Q402 should be around 97V ([82K/22K]+1) x 20.6V = 97V & change.
 
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I've follow the cup and plug markings, but the pcb also has a - marking, so I've been able to confirm the cap orientation.

I did power up with the amp removed and got these voltages:

listed/actual
-43/-47.5
75/97.5
130/140
100/104.5
78/102.8 - to the A board
20/19.6
36/42.5
-75/-92.5

This post talks about voltages being higher. The AC coming into the amp is 125V, so maybe that also accounts for something? Are these differences too far off?

The supply voltage coming directly from the big 4700uf 50V caps is the first reading in the list -- 47.5 (and -47.5, depending). I just checked the resistor and it reads okay (0.99k)

As far as I can tell, the Q402 output is listed at 78, but is in fact 102.8. This is the lead that connects out to the A board, right?

My BIG question: how can the numbers for the power supply running alone be in the ballpark (see list above), but when I connect the power amp the listed voltages on the amp board are inverse/negative? I swear the wire connections all line up.

A
 
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OK then...what kind of caps did you buy?

And did you really replace the 2.2K bias pot with a 1K??????
 
I got Nichicon Fine Gold or "KT" caps. Do you recommend another brand?

No, I figured out that 1K isn't the same as 2.2K. :) Good thing I was saving that for the second wave of upgrade!

About the voltage: a repair shop 35 years ago (you read that right) removed the voltage selector and soldered the wires (pissed me off, too). So the voltage has been okay for the past 35 years.

Updated diagnosis (taken out of circuit):
Bad: Q404, 405, 406, 407, R415, R416, C416
Good: R414, 417, 418, C418, Q407, Q408

Does this mean the damage is contained?
 
If you have 102 VDC coming from a 78 VDC regulator I would say the regulator has a problem. The output of the regulator should be constant no matter the input, within reason of course.

Maybe I'm blind but I can't find C420 on the schematic, where is it?

Craig
 
I just pulled a TA-4650 off the shelf and sure enough it's 102VDC to the A board.

Craig
 
C420 is right in the middle of the F board on the schematic. On the mounting diagram it's right above the pins.

I replaced just about everything on the power supply. I'll double-check the values. But the power supply voltage adjustment (page 4 of the schematic link) was pretty right on--19v instead of 20.

Still, would this account for the voltage reversing on the amp board?
 
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