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Sony TA-F6B Resto

BentoFrance said:
Can anyone answer me about the specification of the light fuse in the vu-meter, both are out and nothing is write on this to give me clude.
thanks.
after having changed all the caps of the PLPS I always had the problem of ignition, I think that it comes from transistor HITACHI 2SB655 and 2SD675, are they easy to find?
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I've been looking for those fuse lights forever, to the point where I'm thinking about hacking up my amp :no: :tears: If you find them, tell me where! They're 46V fuse style lamps, if I remember right.

I don't know about the transistors, though.
 
SONY TA-F6B bulb

hello all, I am back on this post to say I found someone who has the bulb to the vu-meters for my TA-F6b.
So mine is working on 220V so I dont know what it done in 120V !!:scratch2:
I can give the name of the person who save my amp.
mailto:dwojo@earthlink.net
He is a reel pro so just ask and he find:thmbsp:
 
tri-comp said:
A sound advice would be to ABSOLUTELY DO A RECAP of the switched-mode power-supply. I had a lot of 'fun' with something similar in a TA-N86 / Class-A amp. until I finally did the full re-cap.
TA-N86 -> http://www.thevintageknob.org/SONY/sonyesprit/TAN86/TAN86.html rgds, /tri-comp
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Just sold my TA-F6B/ST-A6B pair last month. Excellent gear. Especially the 7-gang tuner. Also, having owned the TA-N86B for many years (also sold the TA-E86B/N86B pair last month to a fellow in Japan) I will state that the PLPS in the two amps do not operate at all like one another in real-life. That is, the TA-N86B PLPS demands 105C caps to be happy and long lasting due to the very high temp it operates at in Class A (also quite warm, but not hot, in Class A/B). Hot enough that one cannot hold their hand on the PLPS module after 15 minutes of operation. The TA-F6B PLPS module, on the other hand, barely gets warm to the touch when driven hard. While the 105C caps would supply some additional insurance, the TA-F6B would survive well with only the 85C caps.

Too bad about the case being in such sad shape. Having the info and block diagrams on the case tops was a nice touch. The TA-F6B I sold could have stood to be refinished, but I held off as I did not want to harm the excellent graphics. The buyer was most pleased and simply waxed the case to do the best possible.
 
thefragger said:
I've been looking for those fuse lights forever, to the point where I'm thinking about hacking up my amp :no: :tears: If you find them, tell me where! They're 46V fuse style lamps, if I remember right.
I don't know about the transistors, though.
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They are not fuse lamps. They are simply 6v axial lamps and sold by AK member dgwojo and Parts Express (I buy from dgwojo as he is very helpful on all my lamp needs). If you want the lamp to be a bit dimmer, but last much longer, then get the 8v axial lamps. You can break the ends off the old lamps (new ones do not have the caps on either end) and drill a small hole in the center and slip over the new lamp leads and solder, if you wish. However, I just wrap the leads around the clamp at either end and solder.

Be careful removing the high temp clear tape that is used to hold the plastic meter cover in place once you pop the meters loose from the back side of the faceplate. You will want to reuse it as regular 'Scotch Tape' will not take the heat and will change color.

Here are a couple of pic's without a flash.
 

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Hi folks!

First post here - amazed at the combined knowledge on display here, and hoping I'll be able to contribute in time.

Have managed to score a Sony TA-F6B which I should be receiving within the next couple weeks. Been told it's a minter, BUT one day it went pop and hasn't worked since, so I've managed to get it for the price of postage plus a donation to a charity of the seller's choice.

From reading this superb thread, I'm assuming the PLPS will need a complete recap - no problem there. I also gather that the thermal fuse in the PSU board will probably need replacing too. I'd be grateful if somebody could let me know of a suitable replacement and I'll get that ordered, so hopefully I'll have some spare parts to hand for when the amp actually arrives.

Cheers,

- John
 
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Wow--you got a hell of a deal! I found the part at a local store--it's a standard thermal fuse that I think trips at 109°C and it's pinched between two power resistors near the IEC socket at the back.

I just checked; it's a 10A 109°C thermal fuse. Hope that helps!
 
Hiya!

After a thorough go with the search tool on here, plus Google (which went straight to one of your posts!) the Sony part number is: 1-532-496-00.

However there appears to be a recommended replacement which is: 1-532-496-21.

Typically I cannot find anywhere in the UK that stocks either of these parts, though I imagine any brand of thermal fuse which meets the original specs you quoted would be suitable for the task, though I'd prefer to get the original Sony part if possible.

Cheers (and thanks for the PM :) )

- John


P.S. You still using your F6B - still sounding good after you got her working again?
 
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ST70fan said:
After a thorough go with the search tool on here, plus Google (which went straight to one of your posts!) the Sony part number is: 1-532-496-00.

However there appears to be a recommended replacement which is: 1-532-496-21.
Click to expand...

Well, that's pretty dang cool :D

Another Google search turned up this

Code: 
1-532-496-21 FUSE THERMO 109C/10A/250V

The part looks like this;

thermal%20fuse.jpg
 
Yeah I saw that too at Encompass parts - if I have no luck in the UK I'll shoot them off an email and see if they sell individual components to non-business users.

- John
 
Just making a preliminary list (from the service manual diagrams) of the essential caps to replace, which is everything in/related to the PSU so far.

I intend to use very low ESR Rubycon ZA/ZL caps for the PLPS, but there are two caps in there which have a high voltage rating and aren't available in this series:

C604 - 22uF/400V
C613 - 33uF/350V.

These are the only decent caps I can find, but not sure if they're suitable low ESR types?

http://uk.farnell.com/rubycon/400bxa22mefg12-5x25/capacitor-22uf-400v/dp/8126798

I have a feeling anything is probably better than the current 30year old caps in there, but I'd like to make the right decision straight away.

What caps did you end up using in your restoration Philip?

Many thanks,

- John
 
I'm pretty sure I used Panasonic FC and FM in the audio sections and Nichicon PW in the power supply parts.
 
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You can't go wrong with those Panasonic caps - superb value for money. I'll probably use those for the signal sections, and use the Rubycons in the PLPS. It's just those two 350/400V caps I wasn't sure about.

- John
 
Whilst I prefer to keep vintage gear as-designed, I think a couple mods might be beneficial to the TA-F6B.

I noticed that a few of the caps in the signal path are back-to-back electrolyics, so Sony obviously knew a trick or two about getting better sound from the dreaded electrolytics even then. In the example of C206/C216 or C256/C266, there are two 47uF/50v caps back to back (creating a single non-polar 47uF cap). I am thinking about taking out all instances of these back-to-back caps in the signal path, and instead replacing with 47uF film caps, or - if too big - x2 22uF/16V Wima MKS2 caps in series. I would think that any film cap would outperform electrolytics in the signal path.

Worth a try?

- John


P.S. AFAICS the other back-to-back signal path caps are:

C111/C112 & C161/C162 - 47uF / 50V

C201/C214 & C251/C264 - 22uf / 50V ** (on my PDF it looks as if they're 22uf, and 2.2uF back to back - can anyone confirm this with a decent copy of the circuit?).
 
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Why not Nichicon Muse caps? They are specifically designed for audio applications and will likely cost a total of $10 more than using the Panasonics if you recap the entire tuner. Panasonics are fine for the power supply, but Muse are better in singal circuits.
 
I have used Nichicon Muse caps before (KZ and ES) and they were very good (preferred them to Silmics), however I prefer to avoid electrolytics in the signal path if/when possible. Decent film caps sound better, and more importantly they're far more reliable and shouldn't ever need to be replaced again.

As for the PSU I have a slight preferance (after many years of DIYing) for Rubycon ZL/ZLH caps over Panasonic FC or FM, but there's not much in it.

- John
 
I don't suppose anyone reading this has a decent quality scan of the entire service manual they could email me please? (I am getting an original but cannot afford that until next month, and would like to do some reading up before then). The 'Hi-Fi Engine' download of the manual has many pages missing, at least judging by the page numbers on the scans! (i.e. pages 2-8 missing; 11-16; 20-28...).

Many thanks,

- John
 
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