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Sound still present even with volume on "zero" position

The old potentiometer has a loudness tap. Not present in the new potentiometer. Loudness won't work without that 4th lead.

Seems you bought a potentiometer with center detent. Used mainly for balance and tone controls. Usually you can disassemble and null that detent. It's usually a small ball with a spring.

But to restore the loudness function you need a potentiometer with a loudness tap.
 
Search my recent posts about potentiometer with loudness tap. I replaced one in a pioneer sx-650 recently. Got it from Radio Shack (NO AFFILIATION)
 
Yea I did see that post of yours . Will look for a tapped one
I did come across this one
https://www.order2india.com/product...mHFLdFuNyXLKKoAt89XwUo0WVyXKSVlRoCCu8QAvD_BwE

I live in India and this is the closest match I can find. I understand this may be original or may not be . But do you think the specifications match ? @elnaldo
seems to be a fake though
I read over here https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/fake-alps-blue.349758/page-2
to understand the difference between a fake and an original
 
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Since its really tough to get a replacement with a loudness tap where I live (like an original pot), I decided to open up the volume potentiometer and see what can be done.
I opened the back of the potentiometer and started with the right channel.

What is usual in many pots - Three ends of a single wiper (which slide on the track)

RIGHT channel pot

The wiper end has three slider like ends which rub on the surface of the carbon track. I lifted two of them upwards away from the carbon track. The third one I decided to shift its position. So using a thin needle I carefully shifted it towards the near end on the carbon track. I tested it after a couple of adjustments . I shifted the inner most slider of the wiper end towards the outer near end of the carbon track surface (where the slider/wiper has never rubbed on before). The other two sliders are just bent upwards away from the carbon track (no contact on the carbon).
NOTE - All of the above work was first done on the R channel carbon track

When the potentiometer/ volume/ wiper/slider is kept at minimum level, the wiper tip (the single slider tip whichis the end of the wiper i altered) touches the leg which is soldered to the Vol assembly board at the beginning of the carbon track. (which I never planned for) and the sound cuts of to ZERO.

LEFT channel pot
I did the same for the L channel. Then I closed up the volume control, soldered it back to the Volume assembly board and it works.

There is just a slight imbalance between the L channel and R channel when you increase the volume initially but then immediately as u go on increasing the volume to a moderate level the L and R channel balances perfectly and then all the way to the highest level the L and R channel balance is fair.

The results ? Well so far I am satisfied. I have managed to cut of the volume to actually no sound when its kept at ZERO on the control.
I am still testing it. Here is a pic of the slider ends of the wiper of the R channel

IMG_9365.jpg
 
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Alright. So I have been playing dangerous with a cheap fix until I finally decided to order an alps 100k volume control. I was skeptical to buy it as I knew it would turn out to be a fake.
But I ended up buying it. I get it after a month and I fix it up the very next day.
Performance- well balanced signals through out the tracks.
- A little tight on turning but that’s ok
- it’s shuts the signal output to *silence* on the minimum level
- it’s not even an alps . It’s called Hi-Fi
Love the performance so far. Check out the video.

https://youtu.be/eod5aj5AGPo

 

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A control with loudness taps and shuts down the sound completely as a volume pot is designed to do and you like the sound, excellent repair.
 
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