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Souther linear arm

Here the pix, I had some problems with focus on some of them.

Pic one is the fully mod'ed complete assembly.
Pic two shows the auto-return-to-lead-in groove resilient stop on the rail gantry bottom, right.
Pic three shows the torsional damper counter-lever removed with the floating mass in place.
Pic four shows the floating mass removed, shown to be two trimmed .38 cal bullets.

I try the damper with the bullets in one or the other holes and adjust clamping tension while checking LF resonance for best damping effectiveness. I have good damping with the bullets in the hole nearest the spindle locator on my set-up.

This mod is mainly for the pre-Tri-Quartz gantry frames, the later frames appear to not have the extra end piece holes required. I've also added a glass bead filled rail plate damper, noted in a later posting.
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S.B.
 

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Hi S.B.
Thanks for the pictures. It seems fairly simple to duplicate. I may try it. But, could you explain the physics behind your technique? How and why does it work to dampen the structural resonnances of the arm?
Regards,
David
 
Hi S.B.
Thanks for the pictures. It seems fairly simple to duplicate. I may try it. But, could you explain the physics behind your technique? How and why does it work to dampen the structural resonnances of the arm?
Regards,
David

Understand that this specifically damps the torsional resonance in the framework of the structure itself. Lightly tapping the cabling off the back or the backside of the spindle end of the assy with the stylus resting on a still record will bring the LF resonant boom sound from the speakers. This damps that torsional resonance tendency on these series arms. If you dupe the damper be sure that there is just a bit of rocking movement in the counterlever, don't compress the felt with the fulcrum screw.
The friction of the slugs on the hole wall do some of the damping, the felt padding on the counterlever assy the rest as the slugs float loosely upon it in their roost. It's proved very effective in practice.
The arm stick itself is damped by filling the hollow tube version with tiny glass beads and lightly plugging the end so that they float a bit loose. I recommend this if nothing else for any of these arms as superior to the solid sticks.
S.B.
 
Thoughts on the Souther arm

As a longtime Souther Triquartz owner with a love-hate relationship with the arm, I've found this discussion interesting. Here are my own thoughts, late as they are. Most of my mods are the result of a long talk and visit with Los Souther after he sold out to ClearAudio. The issues with mass are things that came to him after the sale.

1) I removed the cover, which bound up the wire. In its place I put a steel bar, essentially making the arm a quad-quartz, or more accurately, a quad-supporting tube.

2) I filled the ends and the cross beams with sand.

3) Well Tempered wire soldered to some Cardas tonearm cable works in place of the Souther original. I use the little plug that was intended for the original harness as the connection point. I haven't looked into the Incognito, but it sounds similar, without the solder connections.

4) I tried a ClearAudio base adaptor which allows the arm to rest there rather than the spindle. It was a disaster. Very difficult to adjust, for one thing. I suspect that the ClearAudio arms eliminated the adjustment problem. Lou was skeptical about the idea, believing the spindle support was more stable. From my brief experienced with the base adaptor, I agree.

5) One of the biggest problems with the Souther is dirty railings that can lead to dirty stainless steel bearings. I was not aware of this the first time around and was late to discovering the need for cleaning those quartz rods. I use 91% alcohol from CVS to do it. 99% lab alcohol would be better, but I don't like having that stuff around. I've had residue free contact cleaner recommended, but sprays are tough to use in this setting. I just bought some Audioquest Ultra Connect 2 and will try that occasionally. Be sure the cleaner touches only the part of the rail that comes into contact with the bearings. You don't want it running down to where the rail is attached to the body--it might soften the glue.

I have had dirty bearings. I cleaned them with alcohol. Good bye bearings. That's when I met Lou: he sold me new ones. But this is no joke. Any dirt at all on those bearings and you're sunk. You really need to keep those rails clean, especially in high dust environments, not to mention high humidity. Recently, I was having tracking issues (remember, I said love-hate--there has been plenty of the latter), and I had to take the bearings off and clean them in warm soapy water. (Use mild dish washing soap.) Problem solved. For now, anyway. A word, then, about cleaning stainless steel. What makes it stainless is its alloy properties and a thin coating. Harsh cleaning removes the coating. Alcohol qualifies as harsh.

6) One of the Souther's Achilles heels is the foam-like damping beneath the track assembly and the frame. In my arm that stuff recently disintegrated. I noticed it when I was removing the bearings. I was having a lot of tracking problems then that even cleaning the bearings didn't eliminate. By then I was running the track directly on the housing (I probably was before, given the condition of the damping.) Desperate, I stuck a small rubber washer on each end. The problem was eliminated completely. The arm hasn't tracked so well in years. I suspect the issue isn't damping so much as decoupling. I'm now experimenting with some damping material that Michael Percy sells because I find it hard to believe that the washers are the complete solution. We'll see.

7) I consider that damping noted in 6 a very bad design flaw--on a couple of levels. To begin with, of course, the damping disintegrates over time--something more permanent needs to be there. But worse than that. The track is held to the frame by two plastic screws that clamp the track and the damping to the assemply. The problem, damping aside, is that nowhere in the directions for setup are these screws mentioned. Not that I can see. Yet they're critical to adjusting the arm! You can perform all kinds of hijinks setting the level as per the instructions, but if those screws have moved with the disintegration of the damping or just over time, you could be missing a major cause of your difficulty. Should leveling prove difficult, pay attention to those screws.

8) I find Souther's "great little gauge" a pain. I use an inside caliper to set level, but you have to be careful lining it up and in not scratching the quartz. Gentle is the word. And slow.

Set up well, the Souther is a fine performer. I've long thought of dumping it, but my sense is whatever I gain, I may lose something I don't want to lose, so I've hesitated. Finally here is a link to a very interesting account of Souther and the development of the arm.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?eanlg&1266367593&openflup&17&4

scroll down to the longer post
 
[I've also glass bead-damped it's hollow stainless steel "swizzle-straw" arm tube which audibly smoothed the mid-to-upper end response considerably.
Lou's since sold the company to Peter Suchy at Clearaudio in Germany quite a while back and I think passed on.

--Where do you get these glass beads?
 
Coarser beads are used in dental endo glass bead sterilizers and eyeglass fitting session temple piece warmers. Finer beads are used as reflectorizer additive for highway marker paint. I used the endo sterilizer beads as they were available at the time.
 
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I use either distilled water and/or naptha lighter fluid (as degreaser/cleaner) for most cleaning as they don't attack other materials or promote corrosion. The rail adhesives are assumed to be somewhat sensitive to solvents and cleaners and the rails are best not cleaned with anything more aggressive than slight amounts of either of the the 2 forementioned substances.
 
It was Lou who suggested alcohol--after he warned me about not using it on the bearings. I since became aware of the issue of the glue on the rails and am very care how I apply that alcohol. Still, I wonder if it would be safer going to your approach for cleaning, perhaps just occasionally using alcohol. I'll think about that.

Do you have any source for those glass beads? I have one thought. The place where I get eyeglasses.
 
Conn,

I have never seen the foam damping on my arm. I'll take a look. I have always used a long Q-Tip moistened with isopropyl alcohol to clean the rails and edges of the bearings. (I didn't say wet, just moist) I have had my arm for 20 years, it doesn't have any sticking problems. Oh, I also blow out the bearings with canned air every once in a while. This I assume cleans out any dust that has gotten into them.
 
If you look at the rails, there are two plastic screws a the ends that hold the rail assembly to the arm. Underneath that assembly on each end surrounding the screws is the damping. You would not see it if you didn't take off the track. And from what I gather, you are not supposed to take off the track. I had to to get the bearings off.

All I can say about the alcohol on the bearings is that the bearings were pitted and I brought them to Lou. When I told him how I cleaned them, he warned me not to use alcohol on them. On the track was fine. That's all I know, though when I googled how to clean stainless steel I read that the less harsh the cleaner the better. Warm water was best, followed by a little mild dishwashing detergent.

I was not good about cleaning the track in the early days and I live in a humid environment that holds dust. I had a lot of tracking problems until recently. I still wonder if I should get rid of the arm if only because there are so many great ones out there. Decisions, decisions.
 
I have never noticed those. There are two screws right where you said and you are saying under that part of the "bridge" there is foam. I do not seem to have any problems with the level on my arm changing. It has always (since I have owned it) been in conditioned space so temperatures range from 67-80 at the worst. The humidity is controlled in the summer and I add a humidifier in the winter to eliminate static. But I know the arm is old, probably close to 20 years old.

After I bought my arm I gave Lew a call and he had just recently sold the rights to Clearaudio. At that point my arm was 3-5 years old. But I can't even remember when that was exactly.
 
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I've been fooling around with a different "experimental" set-up for the last while and recently went back to the 'A' system with it's Souther combo with an O'fon MC-3 replacing the worn X3-MC. I had the Cambridge Audio 640P phono headamp I'd paired to the C-J Motif MC-9 line controller upgraded in the meantime. I am still astonished and pleased with the Souther, no regrets whatsoever replacing a Magnapan Unitrack with this thing.
Since the systems are very different it's not possible to compare the Matsushita strain gauge/Pioneer PL-L 1000 set-up directly with this other than to say the Souther is totally stable with warped records that pulse the output of the other TT.
My 'A' system is my audio comfort food. Whether or not it's "audiophile" is beside the point, it is by intent and outcome a music lover's system that serves the source material as well as I could desire within my means. The experimental system leans toward audiophile/analytical.
 
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For Souther owners this TT leveling combo is a godsend, speeding set-up considerably and making cart swaps MUCH more convenient. The smallest bubble weighs almost nothing as it temporarily rests between the screws on the arm head, e-Bay listing #170728697093
 

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Conn said:
I must have missed something. I'm not sure what you're talking about. What TT leveling combo?

Check the eBay item number refed in the posting.


Posted from Audiokarma.org App for Android
 
That small bubble is nice (I picked one up a while back) and will provide peace-of-mind regarding azimuth vis-à-vis merely eyeballing it. However as I recall getting azimuth right, even with the level, is still going to require some patience.
 
That small bubble is nice (I picked one up a while back) and will provide peace-of-mind regarding azimuth vis-à-vis merely eyeballing it. However as I recall getting azimuth right, even with the level, is still going to require some patience.

Incredibly fiddly to get perfect but much easier than the beam rod, and you have the headpiece bubble to ref VTA against the beam level during set-up. This thing is fab and may encourage some cart swaps in this arm, like a certain Grado combo.
 
First cartridge I used on my SLA-3 was a Grado Signature 8 - an excellent sounding combo as I recall.
 
It'll likely be an 8MZ in a Black body unless I do a Grado 'P' mount/ adapter for quicker cart swaps. Right now it's going into the mod'ed H-K T60/ 'P'mount and there's no reason to kick out the DL-110 yet as it's essentially new in this arrangement. I think these two TTs are the best sounding I've yet had in the house, mebbe time for another TT yard sale.
 
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