Speaker Coating Question (JBL L100)
- Thread starter RedDelidder
- Start date
So you can clean the L-pads with some deoxit, or you can replace them. If they feel smooth and work id say just spray them with some Deoxit fader lube (Green can) and be done with them.
Dropping the crossover on the L100' will require removing the foilcal as you stated, its not hard just takes some time. Or you can purchase a new foilcal on eBay but you will loose the correct serial #'s.
If you do want to re-cap them, do not use DAYTON or SOLAN caps, Dayton is going to be a line level swap, Solan caps are great in tube amps but not so hot in crossovers as they are to serial.
Use Jantzen Standard "Blue" caps, or the Audyn Q4. Also use bypass caps 0.01uF, the Audyn Q4 bypass caps pair well with the jantzen caps. Both play well with JBL Drivers.
You will want to upgrade your binding posts as well.
RedDelidder
New Member
I had pretty much decided that I was going to replace the binding posts the first time I hooked them up lol
The terminals or "binding posts" aren't horrible, they won't take a large wire but they are the same design that you will find on the back of JBL's drivers inside the cabinets, and on large pro-JBL speaker drivers. They hold the wires like a vice! The later version than yours are not good for much of anything.
IIRC the L-Pads can be accessed from the back by removing the woofer, just be careful where/what you spray.
IIRC the L-Pads can be accessed from the back by removing the woofer, just be careful where/what you spray.
Just my opinion, but I would not replace anything.
Two approaches - collectibility vs. utility. Either is valid but IMO you should pick one and stick with it.
Collectibility: A pristine L100 is valuable and any changes to the original state will make it less desirable to a collector. Components should not be replaced unless they. demonstrably fail (e.g. crumbling or stiff foam driver surrounds, bulging electrolytic caps, etc). More importantly, doing anything that requires removal of the foilcal risks damage/destruction of a critical piece of the speaker's appearance. Som might be great at this fiddly task, and L100s might be easier, but I did not find it all easy on my L166As.
Utility: If you must replace a failing part, go ahead and do it, but with great care to maintain originality wherever possible. Enhanced audiophile components such as the Jantzen caps are fine but they don't work any better than any other quality component. You need 4 if memory serves so it gets expensive if you get the $100/ea ones.
I don't love the binding posts - mine are the same as yours - but I live with them because, how often are you using them, really? I do use banana-to-wire adapters so if I need to unplug them I don't have to mess with that overly tight spring. But one practical caution that goes for any similar speaker: If you replace the binding posts, don't get the top of the line 4-ways UNLESS they are <5/8" high off the mounting plate. If they're too long you will not be able to lay the speaker flat on its back for service or storage. (Don't ask how I know!)
And one last point as a longtime audio fan/geek/mini-hoarder: Resist the urge to fix something that is not broken. Instead get something that IS broken, or wait until something breaks on its own. I understand the need to tinker but you can turn your soldering skills easily to tuneups of all kinds of worthy already-broken electronics.
Just my opinions and well worth what you paid for them
Two approaches - collectibility vs. utility. Either is valid but IMO you should pick one and stick with it.
Collectibility: A pristine L100 is valuable and any changes to the original state will make it less desirable to a collector. Components should not be replaced unless they. demonstrably fail (e.g. crumbling or stiff foam driver surrounds, bulging electrolytic caps, etc). More importantly, doing anything that requires removal of the foilcal risks damage/destruction of a critical piece of the speaker's appearance. Som might be great at this fiddly task, and L100s might be easier, but I did not find it all easy on my L166As.
Utility: If you must replace a failing part, go ahead and do it, but with great care to maintain originality wherever possible. Enhanced audiophile components such as the Jantzen caps are fine but they don't work any better than any other quality component. You need 4 if memory serves so it gets expensive if you get the $100/ea ones.
I don't love the binding posts - mine are the same as yours - but I live with them because, how often are you using them, really? I do use banana-to-wire adapters so if I need to unplug them I don't have to mess with that overly tight spring. But one practical caution that goes for any similar speaker: If you replace the binding posts, don't get the top of the line 4-ways UNLESS they are <5/8" high off the mounting plate. If they're too long you will not be able to lay the speaker flat on its back for service or storage. (Don't ask how I know!)
And one last point as a longtime audio fan/geek/mini-hoarder: Resist the urge to fix something that is not broken. Instead get something that IS broken, or wait until something breaks on its own. I understand the need to tinker but you can turn your soldering skills easily to tuneups of all kinds of worthy already-broken electronics.
Just my opinions and well worth what you paid for them
RedDelidder
New Member
I really like this perspective, and honestly I think I'm really getting ahead of myself.Just my opinion, but I would not replace anything.
Two approaches - collectibility vs. utility. Either is valid but IMO you should pick one and stick with it.
Collectibility: A pristine L100 is valuable and any changes to the original state will make it less desirable to a collector. Components should not be replaced unless they. demonstrably fail (e.g. crumbling or stiff foam driver surrounds, bulging electrolytic caps, etc). More importantly, doing anything that requires removal of the foilcal risks damage/destruction of a critical piece of the speaker's appearance. Som might be great at this fiddly task, and L100s might be easier, but I did not find it all easy on my L166As.
Utility: If you must replace a failing part, go ahead and do it, but with great care to maintain originality wherever possible. Enhanced audiophile components such as the Jantzen caps are fine but they don't work any better than any other quality component. You need 4 if memory serves so it gets expensive if you get the $100/ea ones.
I don't love the binding posts - mine are the same as yours - but I live with them because, how often are you using them, really? I do use banana-to-wire adapters so if I need to unplug them I don't have to mess with that overly tight spring. But one practical caution that goes for any similar speaker: If you replace the binding posts, don't get the top of the line 4-ways UNLESS they are <5/8" high off the mounting plate. If they're too long you will not be able to lay the speaker flat on its back for service or storage. (Don't ask how I know!)
And one last point as a longtime audio fan/geek/mini-hoarder: Resist the urge to fix something that is not broken. Instead get something that IS broken, or wait until something breaks on its own. I understand the need to tinker but you can turn your soldering skills easily to tuneups of all kinds of worthy already-broken electronics.
Just my opinions and well worth what you paid for them
I'll leave it stock (minus cleaning the L-Pads) and throw some adapters on the back. I'm not really concerned about resale value, but I do love the vintage styling it has. Every time I look at them, they just scream "Speaker".
The only real work I need to do with them, since they are actually broken, is repairing the frame cover. One of the frames is broken on three sides and both are covered with rotted and dried foam from the original. So I'll start saving my pennies to buy the new foam while I try my hand at repairing the frames.
You’re in the right place, there are a few of us JBL collectors who love JBL restoration.
Kinda hard to key all this up on my cell, but with a little elbow grease you can get them looking new.
Go slow with them and enjoy the ride, I’d say 1st clean them up, it’s a bit of a process but I have a good method if you don’t want to go all out and sand and reseal.
You can pull the drivers, careful on the woofers they will 10000000% be stuck. I’ll post some pic of the tool I use to break the seal from one of the screw holes. This is common known issue with the L-100s.
I’ll be as short as I can, this is my method so if anyone wants to chime in they can but keep in mind everyone has an opinion, I’d say take advice from folks who have been down the road, some folks say leave them stock and that’s great advice but I’d have to say swap the caps. This can be done with a mirror and some skillful soldering it’s not hard, I’ve done 4-5 sets of L-100s.
So to start, you will want to:
1. Clean cabinets with a new microfiber towel, soaked in hot water and add 2-3 drops of dawn soap. You don’t want a ton of soap but you want enough to break up all those years of gunk. Scrub one side of the cabinet at a time and instantly wipe clean with clean paper towels. Don’t soak the veneer to long, wipe up fast. Let air dry. This is a very important step. This will help with cleaning and softening the wood veneer for the next step.
2. Purchase some 0000 fine steel wool, and some Howard’s Feed and Wax. You will want to wet sand the cabinets with the steel wool and feed and wax. This will help break up any of the old sealer they used on the cabinets and help smooth out everything.
Do not wipe clean, allow to dry to haze, do not wipe clean, apply 2nd coat. Repeat for a 3rd time.
With some good wet sanding you will start to feel the veneer get super smooth.
Again do not wipe excess feed and wax off let it soak in for 12hours.
TIP, if you do this on a hot day the oils will soak in better. Not needed but it helps.
3. Pick out a nice wood wax, actual wood wax it’s thick like paste or soft candle wax. apply it with 0000 steel wool, Howard’s makes actual wood wax, it’s pretty good but others are just as good.
Apply a few coats of wood wax finish, allow to dry and wipe clean with microfiber.
If you follow this process you will be left with really clean soft non greasy or oily look. It takes 2 days but it’s worth it. The wax will help seal in the feed and wax.
This method will also help hide any scratches.
When done wipe the black face and back down with a damp microfiber with soap and instantly wipe clean with ceramic microfiber towel, you can use a sharpie to color in any black paint that’s chipped or been scratched.
This is the method I use when I don’t go full ham and sand them down and reseal them.
Need to slow down a little, ... many vintage JBLs don't need any "deep cleaning" at all. None of my JBLs ever needed anything other than a light application of oil.
If his are damaged or dirty as this implies, then certainly an aggressive cleaning is in order but only if.
My two pair, the brown grilles on my backup pair are original JBL replacements offered when the original Quadrex grilles disintigrated. The blue grilles are on my primary set and are replacements (obviously), the original Russett Brown grilles were disintigrated also.
If his are damaged or dirty as this implies, then certainly an aggressive cleaning is in order but only if.
My two pair, the brown grilles on my backup pair are original JBL replacements offered when the original Quadrex grilles disintigrated. The blue grilles are on my primary set and are replacements (obviously), the original Russett Brown grilles were disintigrated also.
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Na a good cleaning is always in order.
And just adding “oil” gives them an oily look… my method treats the dry veneer and seals it for years. But you do you
As they are oiled walnut from the factory, you don't slop it on, you apply and buff it off merely quenching the veneer, should never leave an oily look nor feel, ... but I'm pretty sure you know that already.
If they're not dirty/grungy, as is obvious from my pic #1 above, an aggressive cleaning is not necessary and can raise the grain unnecessarily.
Treating without first assessing is kind of like a Dr. giving out prescriptions without ever meeting the patient, ...
If they're not dirty/grungy, as is obvious from my pic #1 above, an aggressive cleaning is not necessary and can raise the grain unnecessarily.
Treating without first assessing is kind of like a Dr. giving out prescriptions without ever meeting the patient, ...
100% this. I use danish oil every year or so on mine applied in this manner.
My pair even still has some minor scratches on the top that I made when I was a kid…the danish oil does a decent job helping them not be so noticeable. It’s a part of their history I didn’t want to get rid of.
I still miss the original russet brown grilles these had…I used to try to break them off for fun!
Mine had caps set in sand/silicone sealant. Those last forever. I wouldn't worry about them.
You can try spraying the L-pads with Fader Lube. To remove the crossovers, you will need to remove the Foilcals on the front. That can be tricky, as it is easy to irreversibly tweak the aluminum. You need a heat gun and plenty of patience.
I would forgo doing that and hope that the Fader Lube solves the scratchy pot issue.
Actually, I rarely turn the L-pads. So, scratchiness is not a problem for me.
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They are 50/60 year old speakers, they will need some love to make them look correct. Also go back and read the OPs questions, he’s asking about care of said speakers.
They also used hot linseed oil, not “restore-O-Finish”
Just re-applying oil isn’t the best advice. Properly cleaning and softening the veneer helps with the re-oiling process. Sealing with a good wood wax seals and locks it in.
I’m glad you like your method, as I stated in my post, everyone has an opinion. This is my method.
What are you trying to tell me? My method is wrong?
I don’t understand what your point or question is? Not trying to be an ass, I’m just not sure what you’re getting at?
I have had many sets of JBL that don’t require much love, but just applying oil is your method, it’s not mine.
I have been dying to get a few sets of JBL's going, I have a number of random sets that are sitting in one of the bedrooms just waiting to be used. We purchased a new house in San Jose a while back and we have been slowly making upgrades to it, a few large ones like all new hardwood floors, that kept me doing any sort of audio work as all of our belongs were packed up, just had all new HVAC and new windows done as well, new electrical panel, should be finishing up the kitchen in the next week or so, have an electrician out today to move an outlet in the kitchen. All this work has kept me from doing any real audio work as i don't solder in the house, and our studio out back is full of all of our belongs that will be put in the house when its done. That said we should have our kitchen done this week, witch means i can start the process of bringing in the table and large hutch my wife has, from there we can start to set up the house, and I can set up shop in the studio. From there I can start the process of a few tube amps im working on and a number of sets of speakers. This thread has had me dying to dig out the L-100s and get them going. Soon!
Good luck with the speakers. Before starting, I have one suggestion — as a possible option.
The L166 is a better speaker.
Good luck with the speakers. Before starting, I have one suggestion — as a possible option.
The L166 is a better speaker.
I have a set of L-166A's
The early versions that lack the word "Horizon" They have the upgraded woofers with the -1. and a few of the L100's A's and Non A.
a few L-16's
many different drivers.
I have had a lot of the L series JBL, and the signature series as well. I was rid of a bunch of JBL stuff a number of years ago, Was working on a deal for some L-200's just the other day but I dont have the room, i just picked up some massive Bozaks and between those and the other large speakers i have i am kind of swimming in speakers. Pushing nearly 50 tube amps as well. I got rid of a ton of gear when we moved, but ive been slowly rebuilding.
I use JBL speakers for trade, I restore them and trade them for tube amps, or other gear. JBL stuff moves fast and makes for great trade material.
@spidermanwrx ended up with a few sets of my L110's, L100's and L166's.
I live in an audio rich area, I can find JBL speakers on my local CL weekly. Nothing special in our area.
Good luck with the speakers. Before starting, I have one suggestion — as a possible option.
The L166 is a better speaker.
I morose focus on rare stuff, but I do love JBL. The coaxials are a set of RGF Mass I was working on
Lots of stuff! You must have a good-sized room to store them.I have a set of L-166A's
and a few of the L100's A's and Non A.
a few L-16's
many different drivers.
I have had a lot of the L series JBL, and the signature series as well. I was rid of a bunch of JBL stuff a number of years ago, Was working on a deal for some L-200's just the other day but I dont have the room, i just picked up some massive Bozaks and between those and the other large speakers i have i am kind of swimming in speakers. Pushing nearly 50 tube amps as well. I got rid of a ton of gear when we moved, but ive been slowly rebuilding.
I use JBL speakers for trade, I restore them and trade them for tube amps, or other gear. JBL stuff moves fast and makes for great trade material.
@spidermanwrx ended up with a few sets of my L110's, L100's and L166's.
I live in an audio rich area, I can find JBL speakers on my local CL weekly. Nothing special in our area.
Mine are the "A's."
The earliest JBL speakers that I have are in Fender amps.
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Lots of stuff! You must have a good-sized room to store them.
Mine are the "A's."
The earliest JBL speakers that I have are in Fender amps.
I have a bedroom dedicated to just audio gear and my other hobbies. That will all get moved to our little studio we have our back. My whole house has gear all over it and I’ve been looking to downsize. Talking to a buddy now who has a nice set of Quicksilver KT88 monoblocks we are considering trading for something. It’s a never ending hobby.
I’ve never actually owned any of the JBL/fenders stuff, I had a few drivers but never an actual amp. Those look great!!
I use to play the guitar, I still do just haven’t picked it up in a few years. Had a really nice ovation from the late 60s early 70s that my grandfather purchased new that I absolutely loved. Not a fan of the ovation shape but I loved that guitar as it was American made and the SQ was just fantastic. Back in 2019 we were in the process of a move and I had put some stuff in storage, on new years 2019 someone broke into our storage unit and stole a ton of Audio gear, high end road bicycles, and basically my childhood. This was at a “public storage” on the 4th floor with onsite security, and you have to use a pin to even access the property. It was 100000% some of the employees. I asked for camera footage and they would not help me and said I’d have to subpoena them for it. Called the police they said they were to busy as it was New Year’s Eve, so we had to wait until the next day to file a report. The officer finally shows up and says “it’s an empty locker, what do you want me to do”? I said take a report, he took a few minutes to write something down so that it would provide a case #. Lesson learned. Don’t store valuable items at Public Storage…