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Speaker repair advice and help - I've never done this before!

Thanks for both replies. At some point last night I figured out that caps other than electrolytics were not normally polar, and so I didn't have to search for that characteristic except when buying electrolytics.

I will definitely be buying an electrolytic for the 50uF. For the others I haven't yet made up my minds completely, in part because of the combinations I need to get to 25 and to 7 uF. The only 7uF I found was $45. That's not going to happen on this project, so I think I'll do the 6.8 electrolytic + .22 Dayton that was suggested. For the 25 though (and there are two in each speaker) I can't decide whether to do 22 electrolytic + 3 PP,
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=027-348&scqty=1
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=027-418&scqty=1

or just go with a straight 25.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=027-438&scqty=1

The cost isn't extravagant, but will the sound be significantly improved over bypassing?

I am, at best, a semi-trained monkey, so I don't really know which ones are in the mid/tweeter circuit!
 
Without looking at a schematic it's hard to tell exactly what that 25 uf cap is doing. That's right on the edge of where I start to consider NPE's if the speaker is not high end. You might consider using a 25 uf electrolytic and a 0.1 or 0.5 uf bypass. I haven't done much bypassing but those who have tend to use these smaller values.

Again, +/- 10% will not affect the sound much. I would not invest the big bucks for a 7.0 either. In fact for most speakers I'd use the 6.8 and not worry about it. The error is only 3%.

When searching PE I like to use the Capacitor Index Page which lists all the brands. You can get to the full list for each brand from there.

http://www.parts-express.com/crossover-capacitor-index.cfm
 
I suspect that page is the reason I've been able to find what I want there.

It doesn't seem like there is a 25uF electrolytic, which is why I was going to bypass with the 3uF on a 22. The only 25 I found is a Ruby Gold that doesn't appear to be bi-polar.

I wish I did have a schematic. Oh well, more archaeological research lies ahead.
 
It's not hard to draw one and it helps to understand which parts are doing what.

Here's a good page about crossovers that will give you the standard arrangement as a basis. Inputs on the left, drivers to the right, then just trace the wiring to see what's connected to what.

http://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Tutorial/Crossover/

Your 7 uf cap is probably directly in series with the tweeter, and the 25 is probably in the woofer circuit somewhere. If there aren't any inductors, it's going to be pretty simple.

Edit: Oh, I see from the pics you have at least two inductors, 4 capacitors and a couple of resistors. A fairly sophisticated crossover.
 
Patrologia said:
Last question, one of the 5x7s, the first one the signal goes to, has this extra winding on the side. What is that? I don't assume that I will have to do anything with it at all, I'll just eventually reconnect the wires coming from the crossover area, but I am curious what they are.
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Click to expand...

I know the thread is long dead but the small coil is 100% OEM, I have the same ones in mine.
 
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