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Speaker wire update-- Don't use extension cords!

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zenith2134

zenith2134

Lunatic Member
Ok, not looking for ny kind of trouble, I just want to share my experiences wih speaker wire vs extension cord with my equipment.

For the last ~2 years I've been running 16awg extension cord as speaker wire, since my runs are under 20 feet. It's cheap, sounds good, and is practical. I didn't buy into Monster cables, cable tweaks, etc.

I was in Home Depot yesterday before the game, and decided to buy a 100 foot spool of GE 14-gauge 'HD speaker cable' (lol).

When I swapped out the cables on my speakers, the difference was night and day.... I swear, this was the first time I heard a difference.

With the extension cord, the top end just didn't have that sweet 'sizzle' I was missing. Also, oddly, the dynamics got stronger and more pronounced. This isn't in my head, it was a blatant improvement. (And the speaker wire hasn't even had a chance to burn-in yet! KIDDING!)

So this morn' I measured the resistance of both types of cable, and while the extension cord came in at an average of 0.03 ohms, the GE speaker wire came in at 0.01 consistently.

I'm thinking this isn't due to the wire's actual composition, but oxidation of the terminals over time.

In any event, I am happy. The importance of proper wire cannot be ignored.
 
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zenith2134 said:
I'm thinking this isn't due to the wire's actual composition, but oxidation of the terminals over time.

In any event, I am happy. The importance of proper wire cannot be ignored.
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You do a very nice job of contradicting your self here. If the problem was corroded connectors how does that have anything to do if the wire is called speaker cable or an extension cord. You also changed the gauge of the wire. So while I have no doubt you heard a difference you assumptions that speaker cable made from an extension cord is some how not as good as Zip cord type speaker cable is flawed.

And I'm sure that there are many many people who are using the Home Depot speaker cable design that would disagree with your finding's
 
I've encountered a situation similar to this about a year ago when I replaced my gold binding posts with (hold your breath) chrome plated ones. The treble was brought back to life and it was due to tarnish not of the wire, but the posts in my case.
 
I have to throw in here with corroded connections here. Since you haven't answered that.

I would think that you might have measured corroded copper versus newly exposed copper.

A slight series resistor won't hurt sound quality. But I have heard better speaker wire sound better. I only question your scientific method.

I have tinned my zip cord ends so there is no corrosion. (I'm using zip cord, but bi-wired, right now)

Maybe you did the same, but you didn't say so.
 
Tangent said:
So no one thinks that maybe... just maybe.... they designed speaker wire a little different than lamp cord?
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The two serve very similar functions. when it comes down to it. Both speaker wire and lamp cord have to get an alternating current from a source (amp/wall outlet) to a destination (speaker/lightbulb) with minimal deterioration of the current, voltage, or waveform. Granted, lamp cord is alot more tolerant of imperfections and is designed to operate at about 10 times the voltage, but that shouldn't make a tremendous difference. In terms of all the various wires out there, lamp cord is alot closer to speaker wire than, say, pcb traces, or high tension wiring, or RJ11.
 
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I have to amend my post, but it is so far away no one would look back that far. (I looked, it is 6 posts up. There is only one page of this!)

I DON'T use zip cord! I have a double run of CAT-5 cable (still bi-wired), the plus and minus running in both cables.

I have some bi-wired Audioquest I should throw into the system and see what differences it makes. I might like it better.

But to put it in perspective, for me, in my system, I would spend $100 on capacitors before I would spend $100 on speaker wire.

As always, YMMV!
 
Thar be a lot of lakes around here... I'm sure I can find something!

But now I know what it looks like. :)

Thanks....
 
More likely, the act of installing new wire "disturbed" the contact surfaces enough to make a better connection.
I don't believe electrons like monster cable etc ............ put it this way, the area of a cable is probably more than a thousand times greater than the contact area at the speaker or amp connection interface. THAT is the important interface to get right.......... spray deoxit there.
 
Marine wire is cool

AU20K said:
Well Ok. I posted this in another similar thread but I cannot find it now so here goes again. You who advocate the suppression of oxidized wiring are on it. I tried several wiring configurations and after testing (by ears), I settled down with 12 awg marine wire. The reason is simple enough. The copper is number 1 grade and each and every strand is individually tinned to resist oxidation and moisture, then it is twisted and insulated. After trying this setup, I sold my (can't even remember the name now but they cost me about $200.00) manufactured speaker wires. With the marine wire the highs were especially clear and non-harsh. The stuff is about $0.65 to $0.85 per foot but it was worth it to me.
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I was an ET for NOAA National Ocean Service maintaining sonar systems and such for something like 14 years. They are really mostly just high frequency audio systems (60 KHz to 250 KHz) depending on application. So we had long runs of cable from the through hulls on ships to the Sonar Lab - maybe 200 ft? Marine grade wire was the only way to keep them running over time. The key is the fully tinned wire. It works like a charm.

You can buy the wire from on line marine suppliers like West Marine, Boaters Friend and such. It usually comes in red/black for 2 conductor in what ever gage you want. Makes great speaker wire - highly recommended for any critical application. :yes::yes:
 
Wow, AU20K and BrocLuno, that is a super-cool idea. I have a spool of marine-grade wire is sitting right under my nose (yuk!), and I never thought of using it. Thanks!
 
AU20K said:
Well Ok. I posted this in another similar thread but I cannot find it now so here goes again. You who advocate the suppression of oxidized wiring are on it. I tried several wiring configurations and after testing (by ears), I settled down with 12 AWG marine wire. The reason is simple enough. The copper is number 1 grade and each and every strand is individually tinned to resist oxidation and moisture, then it is twisted and insulated. After trying this setup, I sold my (can't even remember the name now but they cost me about $200.00) manufactured speaker wires. With the marine wire the highs were especially clear and non-harsh. The stuff is about $0.65 to $0.85 per foot but it was worth it to me.
Click to expand...

Now that really makes sense. As does "changing the wire cleans oxidation."
 
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