• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

Speakers getting blown

Not the connectors so much, but the switches. Also, if it has a mono switch, try that and if the sound returns in the quiet channel it is in the preamp section. Don't be plugged in to tape monitor at the time because on some units the mono switch does not affect that input.
 
In other words you'll have to open up the receiver. Read that Deoxit sticky thread and all will become clear. If not report back here!
 
Thanks Tox, we were looking to do a sticky on switch cleaning, etc in the marantz section. way too many people to reply to.
You can use your ohm meter on your speakers to check them. compare one speaker against the other. OHMS should be the same.
Have your speakers been refoamed??ff an off center job will rub your windings.
You also can check your windings for shorts by gently pushing the cone in/out with your ohm meter on them, look for intermittent opens/shorts.
 
Thanks Tox, we were looking to do a sticky on switch cleaning, etc in the marantz section. way too many people to reply to.
You can use your ohm meter on your speakers to check them. compare one speaker against the other. OHMS should be the same.
Have your speakers been refoamed??ff an off center job will rub your windings.
You also can check your windings for shorts by gently pushing the cone in/out with your ohm meter on them, look for intermittent opens/shorts.
They have been refoamed, yes. Not by me nor anyone hired by me. It was the guy that I bought the speakers from, he hired a shop of some sort to do that for him.

Would I need to remove the drivers from the cabinet of the speaker and unhook any leads from them? What's the process?
 
If you just hook your ohm meter to the main speaker input,(speaker unplugged from the amp) that will tell you the health of the circuit. Most speakers are in the 6-8 ohm range. Then after documenting that value, Just gently, Ever so gently... work the complete moving part of the speaker in and out and see if your ohms go crazy.
You may see a small change due to the induction, but it should basically stay the same. An off center cone, caused by the gluing of the paper to the foam, can rub your coil and change your resistance. this can cause amplifiers to fail also.

In your case, if you have 0 ohms on one speaker and 8 ohms on the other, its pretty obvious its not going to make a sound.

You may notice the coil rubbing if the force you use to move the cone "in" is off center
I have refoamed speakers by the seat of my pants, but the right way to seat the speaker during glueing is to run a frequency into the unit while the glue is setting up.
 
Last edited:
In other words you'll have to open up the receiver. Read that Deoxit sticky thread and all will become clear. If not report back here!
So, I'm finally getting close to actually doing this. (Too many things going on and it's pushing the fun stuff to the side.) After reading that sticky thread, I have to ask:

I have a can of D5, F5, and G5, but no tubes of anything. For the bass, treble, balance, volume, and tuning I should use a bit of the D5 then the F5 and then the G5? Then for the push buttons of speaker 1, speaker 2, mono, and contour I just use the F5? Or F5 and G5? Then for the RCA jacks and fuse housings I should use the F5?

I want to be careful because some people in the sticky thread are cautioning against using Deoxit. One guy even goes so far to say that it will ruin everything and use LPS-1 instead.
 
Here's my take on it. Assuming G is Gold and F is Faderlube: bass, treble, balance and volume are pots so use the D5 followed by a bit of F5 to lube and preserve the pots. Tuning should not need anything! If your HK is an analogue tuner, it will just have a string and pulleys driving the tuning cap. Do not get deoxit on the fins of the tuning cap!

For push buttons and switches, D5 followed by Gold to preserve the contact surfaces.

Don't overdo, and if possible, carefully stuff a small rag underneath where you're spraying to catch the maximum amount of liquid coming out. Allow to drain/dry a couple minutes between the cleaning and final preservation sprays.
 
D5 fresh from ('guitar center.'s) is good stuff and mild on the plastic inside the pots as in LPS-1. blagstrum (sp) member recommended that but pricey. the deoxit formulas have changed a bit by "code" e.g. D5 as it has lubricant as well.

Made by CAIG industries links to home page
http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.188/.ft

d5 off the shelf is pretty good and adjustable pressure on top.. (prices? vary but home page seems high unless I got it before prices went up? per ounce I wouldn't know)

For hard switches of radial contact. you would need some contact cleaner followed by a lube and all in all as said above? Little is best and a repeat lube is usually safe anyway.
-----------
side note. I also use liquid wrench with lubricant for stubborn stuff or if I can get a good short shot.. cleans more like flushing because of the can 'power' charged with propellant air. Have sprayed same in a small container to make a dip q-tip app. good for tuner bearings without the spray off.

I used to have a nice needle pen oilers I could spray lube into but can't find any of those anymore.

bink
 
Last edited:
"Just gently, Ever so gently... work the complete moving part of the speaker in and out and see if your ohms go crazy."

Yeah umm, there is a MAJOR part missing here. Move it yes but then it must be stationary. Moving it induces current which will screw up the meter reading. Probably best to put a weight on it for this.

Y'know, I wish I could record accurately all the faults possible and categorize them so that people could know. I can tell by listening.

But even that won't do it. An off center refoam job will sound the same as an amp with no bias. you have to run your hand on the speaker to find out for sure, unless you have an extra amp to compare. Or at least you know your normal amp did not have that problem this morning. Or whatever.
 
I finally got the time and the gumption to clean out those pots tonight. I did just a spritz or two of DeoxIT D5 followed up by a spritz or two of DeoxIT F5 in the pots and then rubbed just a bit of the F5 on the input selector switch. I worked them back and forth for a while as well. So far, so good. No scratchiness when making adjustments and this Brazilian jazz CD is sounding so good I want to marry it. Hopefully it will be sounding the same after continuous use for a week.

Thanks everyone for your input. It was all very helpful.
 
Back
Top Bottom