Spec 2 Salvaged
- Thread starter rhodus
- Start date
infullview
Super Member
Wow I just can't believe the level of damage this unit sustained. You are truly a brave person. How did you fix all the bent sheet metal? I feel humbled. I'm currently restoring an HK-825 and HK-870, and I was whining because I had to cross reference and source a proprietary relay!
I hammered out the rear and left side panels on a 4" vise. I bought a right side panel off ebay. The bottom panel has only light damage and is out of sight. The top panel, well, I hammered it out as much as possible but it will never be presentable. I might make a wooden cover for it. The faceplate had to be sanded down to remove numerous pits and scratches. I painted it to see how it looks and I plan to get it anodized at a later date. Can't decide on black or silver....I know the purists hate it but there was no way to save the faceplate lettering. The controls really don't need any lettering' the meter lights indicate off/on and the meters themselves indicate gain right/left levels.
Answer to your relay question:
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-spec-2-unstable-bias.113229/
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-spec-2-unstable-bias.113229/
Thanks! I knew I had seen that post when I was working on my other Spec 2 last year just confused by the diagrams
Yea I bought a few extra of those from the last one because I think I read somewhere that particular replacement might be discontinued. But Mouser still has plenty. I think I also should replace the other reed relay adjacent to it. It is very corroded and even has traces of dirt, like maybe water damage. The coil tests 1k ohm but I don't trust it. I've been looking around for a shielded replacement.
I think I would desolder the relay RL6 on the main scat (RL2, as listed in the SM pictured in the trace illustration) and clean it with a tooth brush and Deoxit. re-tin the legs, reinstall and see how the initial pre-checks go.
Removing the amp assemblies is fairly easy if you have to go back and replace it.
If you want to go further check out this product:
Removing the amp assemblies is fairly easy if you have to go back and replace it.
If you want to go further check out this product:
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Thanks for that tip. # C242A2RO looks like an exact pinout. Is the metal shield necessary?I think I would desolder the relay RL6 on the main scat (RL2, as listed in the SM pictured in the trace illustration) and clean it with a tooth brush and Deoxit. re-tin the legs, reinstall and see how the initial pre-checks go.
Removing the amp assemblies is fairly easy if you have to go back and replace it.
If you want to go further check out this product:
Hi, I need some of these for my Spec 2, and I didn't know Mouser had them. Do you have the part number?
And when it operates the amp goes inop.
Manufacturer # HE3621A2400
For clarity:
RL6 is located on the amp boards, mounted in the RL2 location and selects the 4Ω and 8Ω load. The switch is located on the back of the amp. It would need a six pin reed relay to operate correctly (Like this 8 pin Littlefuse, Mouser P/N 934-HE722A2400, two pins are not used).
RL5 is the pesky muting relay and is also located on the amp boards, mounted in the R1 location. The Mouser P/N 934-HE3621A2400 will work for RL5 but not for RL6.
Mouser part numbers:
Littlefuse
Dead bug mounting style
RL5, 934-HE3621A2400, Amp board location RL1
RL6, 934-HE722A2400, Amp board location RL2
RL6 is located on the amp boards, mounted in the RL2 location and selects the 4Ω and 8Ω load. The switch is located on the back of the amp. It would need a six pin reed relay to operate correctly (Like this 8 pin Littlefuse, Mouser P/N 934-HE722A2400, two pins are not used).
RL5 is the pesky muting relay and is also located on the amp boards, mounted in the R1 location. The Mouser P/N 934-HE3621A2400 will work for RL5 but not for RL6.
Mouser part numbers:
Littlefuse
Dead bug mounting style
RL5, 934-HE3621A2400, Amp board location RL1
RL6, 934-HE722A2400, Amp board location RL2
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slipstream55
Active Member
Hi, rhodus. I dug thru my paperwork and I got those TB strips from Mouser. Part number for the two-contact TBs is 571-282861-2 (MFR # 282861-2, TE Connectivity) and 571-282861-3 (MFR # 282861-3). Hope this helps you.
