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Sprague 716P Orange Drop, 200V & 400V Where to Buy ?

O but 716 orange drops sound so good in vintage gear and the cost is low. Antique Supply is where i got mine.

I have read the 716's are what you want to use over the 715's due to the properties of the caps themselfs. What I like especially about the the 716's is the leads are a soft easy to work with copper. I am always leary about breaking tabs and pins, the soft stuff is just sooo nice to work with
 
I have read the 716's are what you want to use over the 715's due to the properties of the caps themselfs. What I like especially about the the 716's is the leads are a soft easy to work with copper. I am always leary about breaking tabs and pins, the soft stuff is just sooo nice to work with

Excellent point, sometimes it's a bear getting stiff leads bent right, in tight spots. I think I prefer Brownie Moose Tracks, but just ran out. :tears: ;)
 
I have read the 716's are what you want to use over the 715's due to the properties of the caps themselfs. What I like especially about the the 716's is the leads are a soft easy to work with copper. I am always leary about breaking tabs and pins, the soft stuff is just sooo nice to work with

I am interested in what you've read about the differences between the 715's and 716's besides what's already been mentioned.

They are both polypropylene, work well for high pulse applications, but the 715's are available in smaller voltage and size ratings.

If you are replacing older capacitors I can't see where you are going wrong either way. Here's some good information from SBE's own website:

http://orangedrop.sbelectronics.com/images/PDFs/715p.pdf

http://www.sbelectronics.com/
 
The thing I'm getting at is cost and availability. Check epay on say Vitamin Q 200v oil caps, they are much cheaper, and 100v are cheaper still. The 400v are the ones that command big money, and if a simple mod (say delay on HT) will allow me to run 100v couplers, I'm for it, especially on custom built amps. I look at it like using compactrons instead of EL34s and such.

Why would you want Vit. Q in the power supply? Any decent cap of suitable rating will do there, even electrolytic would be better suited. The Good caps I would want in the signal path.
 
I have read the 716's are what you want to use over the 715's due to the properties of the caps themselfs. What I like especially about the the 716's is the leads are a soft easy to work with copper. I am always leary about breaking tabs and pins, the soft stuff is just sooo nice to work with

The 715 and 716 are exactly the same EXCEPT for the reason you like 716p. The leads in 716 orange drops are copper and in 715 are steel. It has nothing to do with the other mumbo jumbo.
 
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Why would you want Vit. Q in the power supply? Any decent cap of suitable rating will do there, even electrolytic would be better suited. The Good caps I would want in the signal path.

I am talking signal path, although I do use films and oils (cheaper ones) for bypassing lytics in the filter chain.
 
The 715 and 716 are exactly the same EXCEPT for the reason you like 716p. The leads in 716 orange drops are copper and in 715 are steel. It has nothing to do with the other mumbo jumbo.

They are very similar yes, "Exactly the same" I do not think so... According to the spec sheets the 716 is high performance 715 which to me means maybe a little better material selection and or mfg process. For the few penny's difference in price I will stay with the 716... Plus for a given voltage and capacitance, the 716 is a physically smaller cap.

So, its looking like nobody knows of a source for the 200V version ???
 
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I have been using the 600V version of the 716P. Space is kind of limited and I am pretty sure I can go down to 400V version in some of my more crowded positions and possibly 200V. Does anyone know where I can buy the lower voltage versions ? Looking for 0.010uF and 0.047uF especially...

supersoundmusic has the .047 200v on ebay. cheers it's the 715p not the 716p
 
Why don't you contact SBE and see what they have to say. Plus maybe they can direct you to a vendor that has 716's.
 
Mouser has a few

Type "716p" in the search on Mouser.com - then select "passive components capacitors" there's like 6 choices so not many but a few.

Cheers,

Bob
 
Type "716p" in the search on Mouser.com - then select "passive components capacitors" there's like 6 choices so not many but a few.

Cheers,

Bob

yeah its strange...

Mouser has .01uF and .10uF in the 200V series but no 400V. They are the only ones I have found to carry 200V's yet. AES has a bunch of values available in 400V but no 200's.

Also kind of funny I received my order confimation from AES while typing this responce, I placed order last night

Edit, I see Mouser does not stock any 716P's...
 
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Someone can correct me if I am wrong here but my research shows another difference between the two.

In addition to the copper vs steel leads the 715P is a round cap whereas the 716P is a pressed (oval) cap. Some argue that pressing a cap (usually done after winding) introduces uneven stresses in the cap that can show up in the audio band. That would make the 715P the preferred cap since the copper leads really have no effect in the audio world (subjective vs objective views aside).

I hope in the future to be able to examine this since I now have access to a network analyzer.
 
Someone can correct me if I am wrong here but my research shows another difference between the two.

In addition to the copper vs steel leads the 715P is a round cap whereas the 716P is a pressed (oval) cap. Some argue that pressing a cap (usually done after winding) introduces uneven stresses in the cap that can show up in the audio band. That would make the 715P the preferred cap since the copper leads really have no effect in the audio world (subjective vs objective views aside).

I hope in the future to be able to examine this since I now have access to a network analyzer.

It really has been a long time since I saw a Sprauge 715 but I seem to recall they were oval. I do so because we used to distinguish 715 from 716 by plucking the leads.
Copper vs steel leads do have a profound effect in the audio world. Set yourself up a test bed and get an oscilloscope to measure the noise on each. I bet you'll take the copper leads. Many will cut the steel leads on Russian PIO caps and extend them with copper wire for this reason.
 
About those copper and steel leads...I've always wondered why the heck steel leads...apparently some parts have steel leads to shield themselves or the surrounding circuit from dissipated heat. Steel is a poor conductor of heat, problem solved...
 
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