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Styrofoam peanuts...

Seeing Terry's post reminded me of a MC 2500 that I have in the "to do" pile. Someone tried to ship all 125 pounds of it in nothing but peanuts. :no:

When it's finished...just ship it to me there Jay! :D :banana:

About the first post...'tis a shame. Frankly, I'm a firm believer in double boxing and wrapping in rigid foam to boot. It can be expensive, but well worth it.
 
On the RT-909 packaing, you need about 1" clearance arond the reel spindals. If the package gets dropped on the sides, top or bottom, the machine will move in those directions, while the face protection foam will not. This will cause your spindals to get bent.

Enjoy,
Rich P

Thanks for the concern Rich, Movement (and the related inertia) IS the #1 enemy, that's why I pack the way I do. If you take a closer look you will see the unit is supported on all 6 sides by form fitted foam sheets, notice the sheet on the sides, cut to fit under the rack mount flange. Wherever cutouts need to be made, a solid piece is placed over it, providing 4" total! The complete inner package is wrapped tightly in tape, and the outer box is formed tightly around the inner package, and stapled in place with an air powered stapler. NOTHING is going to move!

What you can't see in the photo, is the front plate is cut out for the flange on the spindles as they protrude about 1/4",and there is plenty of clearance around the spindles.

This is the closest to the factory style packaging possible!
 
I use over sized boxes and put in foam boards and bubble wrap. So far I had no problems with receivers or speakers sent as far away from me as the East to west coast and Japan. I had a guy tell me that my avid 100 speakers sat on his porch in 100 degree heat, had a hole in the outer box, but worked fine after he brought them down to room temperature in the room with ac. i think ups and usps try setting throwing records. I have a friend who designed a conveyor system for ups. He said the boxes are next to one another on the conveyor at speeds of 200 feet a minute. Try catching one of those!
 
Looks a bit better now...

Still tons of work to do, but at least the rear panel no longer looks like it fell off a truck. FWIW, that steel is awfully soft.
 

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Looks a bit better now...

Still tons of work to do, but at least the rear panel no longer looks like it fell off a truck. FWIW, that steel is awfully soft.

Has its strength been compromised? You could stiffen it up with a steel 'L' bar across the length on the top and bottom.

dew.
 
packing

Looks a bit better now...

Still tons of work to do, but at least the rear panel no longer looks like it fell off a truck. FWIW, that steel is awfully soft.

Hey Glenn, remember the box I sent my BA 3000 to you in?
Cost a bundle because it was so big, but it went from Seattle to Kansas City and back without any damage.
But I was still a nervous wreck while it was in transit.
Casey:D
 
I can't look.

No offense intended to other brands, but being a Mac fan, seeing some of these photos, just.................Is there no decency left in the world?.:tears:

Dave
 
Sorry, but I disagree. No styrofoam board should ever be in contact with finished metal. That stuff is way too abrasive to be up against aluminum faceplates, or painted cabinet walls. Wrap the piece first, in nice soft poly, then bring on the white foamboard.
 
Sorry, but I disagree. No styrofoam board should ever be in contact with finished metal. That stuff is way too abrasive to be up against aluminum faceplates, or painted cabinet walls. Wrap the piece first, in nice soft poly, then bring on the white foamboard.

Hey Boss! I don't know what the Styrofoam up in the Great White North is like, but down here in Florida it's soft and smooth!! Seriously, abrasive would be one of the last words I'd ever use to describe it. It's very soft but dense enough to provide protection. This stuff bends quite a bit before it breaks, the stuff I think you are talking about is much more brittle, and as such harder. I don't thing you could scratch plastic with this stuff if you tried!

I recently did a glass front Mcintosh 100 watt amp, that was a challenge! Used the 2 inch foam, and some of the denser pink 3/4 board, with a piece of plywood in between. Lots of thought went into how the force would transfer, if (when) an impact happened. I did not want to know how much that glass cost!

Here's a couple of shots of a 9090DB for now: one two three
 
You would be surprised how abrasive even the softest styrofoam is. It doesn't take many cuts to completely dull my utility knife's blade. Even manufacturers always wrap items in a bag before putting them in the styrofoam packing.
 
Nice save Glenn, post a picture of how you pack a spec 2 ,the packing is a work of art. and you could drop it from 6 feet with with no damage to the amp but the box would be done for shure!
 
Reminds me of the old story about how you can send a porclean teacup over Niagra falls in a sleet barrel and have it land safely. Tape it securely to the lid, as long as it does not rattle around it will be safe. Peanuts migrate if they are left loose. I keep the plastic bags from the daily paper and stuff them with the peanuts, then stuff them around the unit. I also save small boxes because if they are cut in half they make nice corner protectors. Then just make certain that it can't move inside the box.

This one also illustrates that in this restoration game you also have to be a sheet metal worker.
 
Nice save Glenn, post a picture of how you pack a spec 2 ,the packing is a work of art. and you could drop it from 6 feet with with no damage to the amp but the box would be done for shure!
There's a thread in this forum with a pic, somewhere.
 
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