Switch lever repair

[Sansuiman]

@LBPete, I'm sure it was mostly an issue of cost reduction. But then I consider that all the other Japanese HiFi majors phased them out about the same time across the board, and have to think that the supplier (Alps was the primary manufacture of these switches, though SMK may have been a second source) may have informed all major users that these were going EOL. Obviously, some advance notice would be needed so that designs of upcoming product lines could account for no longer having lever switches to use. After all, these switches were ubiquitous for the entire decade of the 70's.

There is also no doubt these lever switches were more costly, having full metal bodies, and more requisite pieces involved in their assembly. Compare these to the standard issue push switches which largely replaced them. These had plastic and phenolic bodies,, and were also more flexible in terms of the number of poles, as well as being configurable as either a single function, or a bank of mechanically ganged switches were only one could be selected at a given time exclusive of all others. This probably gave manufacturers of audio gear a bit more design flexibility, and used up less panel real estate than a bunch of levers.

Even though "bean counting" for cost reduction had been taking place since about 1973, the loss of levers was a very noticeable step down in overall build quality, at least in my opinion. That it happened more or less industry wide at the same time serves to further accentuate the cessation of their use.

 

[richardpp]

@Sansuiman,

Thanks for the historical perspective. The Alps switches are hard to come by on the used market, suggesting they are mostly still in use.

I'm not sure of the exact materials that went into their manufacture but i would say steel, nickel, bronze, brass and silver, besides plastic and phenolic, making them expensive to manufacture.

I wholeheartedly agree, the feel of these switches is superb. Functionally, they remind me of the lever switch used in the 70's Beechcraft for the landing gear: if the switch was up, the gear was up and if the switch was down then the gear was down. Nice and simple, no mistakes.

 

[richardpp]

It takes the patience of a Saint to do that tiny tedious work so beautifully. Brovo indeed. We should look into getting you canonized.

@LBPete, we might both have a stake in Sansui heaven as you supplied the chassis screws and the feet to restore this amp, your dedication does not go amiss. Thankyou!

 

[richardpp]

How did you weld the new steel to the old levers? Any particular welding gear you used? I've never welded anything in my life but I have a broken switch lever

Hi @bolero,

The welding was done at a local shop, using MIG. Because the steel is not very thick it takes an experienced hand to get it right. I had one done first before going ahead with the others.

 

[richardpp]

... if you have both pieces you could try getting someone to braze them for you. I was thinking a jeweler's workshop would do a good job with this kind of repair.

 

[bolero]

Thanks!

I don't have the tip

I was going to dremel a slot in it & then insert a longer T piece using liquid weld, hoping it would bond & support it.

But your method looks much better

 

[richardpp]

... I can send you a few blanks if you want to PM me. No cost of course, I have big piece of 1.2mm sheet just sitting here.

 

[richardpp]

This is absolutely amazing! Your work is a labor of love. Do you want to start doing a switch repair gig? Not sure the labor involved would be worth it. Get job in keeping vintage stuff alive!

Thankyou ... or a job as a locksmith, lots of filing

 

[markkb]

Wow, very nice. thanks. question,
When you remove the pivot pin, it must have been originally flared, and when you punch it out that reshapes the flare to go through the hole? Hopefully you can use the pin again and reflare. If not thenI guess that's when you have to shape a brass rod.

 

[richardpp]

When you remove the pivot pin, it must have been originally flared, and when you punch it out that reshapes the flare to go through the hole? Hopefully you can use the pin again and reflare. If not thenI guess that's when you have to shape a brass rod.

Yes, that's right. You may lose a little edge material driving the flared end through the hole, but once cleaned up there should still be enough material to reform the flare. I did seven of them and reused the pin each time.

The need to make a new pin was for a different repair. The lever had been forced sideways causing the pin to shear and it was not reusable. That only came about last week so I thought I would add it in.