• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

sx-1010 developed Crackling & Popping Sound overnight

The first antenna picture looks like a UHF loop which it's performance on VHF (FM broadcast) will be minimal at best. Strong stations will probably be fine. Your 40 meter wire is obviously working well and since you like the sound. You're lucky you're not getting any multipath. If you were you wouldn't be happy with the Fisher's sound.

Congrats on the repair!

Bob
 
Congrats from a fellow 1010 owner.

It's nice to see people come back and update after a few months, especially with good news.

How does the tuner in your 1010 compare to the Fisher? I hope you have tried the 1010 with a better antenna than the one you showed in the pix. That one looks more like an AM antenna or even one for UHF.
 
Onemug , i tried the sx-1010 with lots of antenna settings, with both, also listened to each for years, for hours, dailY

1. the fisher WILL get more cleanly (much less background noise)
he will get more stations with the same antennae

2. the fisher has more tuning ability ,
it got a "katode ray tube" showing you your current stereo resption levels.
as wall as the regular signal strength meter.

3. the sx -1010 has better moving parts mechanics , even better knobs & switches.

4. the fisher can produce 10 times more gain ( volume ) .

4. sonicly , both amazing , the fisher is better .

 
The loop in your 1st pic is an "AM" antenna. This was NOT original equipment with a PIONEER. The FM Antenna would have been or is a "T" dipole antenna made from 300ohm twinlead wire. Wrapping the tree may sound like a good idea but in reality it isn't for FM. FM needs a tuned antenna based on a formula that has the frequency in it. Try this site for the formula and base the length on 98mHz which is the center of the band. http://www.fmtunerinfo.com/

If you listen to AM a lot, you can run a 25' to 50' wire straight across to the tree. Make sure it's perpendicular to the direction of the transmitter or as close as you can to perpendicular (same for FM.)
 
The loop antenna, in front of the keyboard in the picture is a UHF loop antenna. The formula for loop antennas is 1005 divided by the frequency in megahertz, will give you the length in feet. For UHF television channel 40 is in the range of 620 - 630 megahertz, which gives you approx 1.6 feet. For FM broadcast, if we use 100 megahertz, we get approx 10 feet. Loops are basically one wavelength long.

The dipole antennas supplied with the Pioneers were a "folded dipole" which are 300 ohm antennas. With the 300 ohm antenna and an "electrical" multiple of a half wavelength feedline, it will be 300 ohms at the tuner end of the feedline matching the tuner's 300 ohm input. Dipoles are one-half wavelength long.

Bob
 
GITAY'ND said:
hey everyone :(

i have this sx-1010 that i bought on ebay 2 years ago.
had an sx-737 before it , sold it an upgraded to the sx-1010.
i have 2 pair's of hpm-60 & i uselly hear with 1 pair (they are different positioned).
also a tube tuner , The-Fisher kr-60.

so that's my system & let me tell u , it's sounds amazing !!!

sx1010 has a "monster" tone control that can push +15db for bass and\or treble (4 knobs).
the hpm's are bass'y & treble'y and very clear and crisp and also have a tone control that can push up.
not many systems sounds as big and real like it , not for that price ...
i bought all of those components after hours of reading here ,
your revives on the sx1010 & hpm60 & the fisher tube tuner convinced me , and u were right ...
all my of friends and family are amazed by it :beatnik:

i am an engineering student , study all they long while listening to the tuner, tv also connected to it.
so i use it all day long , morning til midnight every day , it's making my life so much better.
i don't have much , choose to buy the system over a new pc ,totally worth it ...

as u can imagine am connected to my sx-1010 like if it was my son...

2 days ago it started having crackling & popping sound from the speakers , only from the left side.
it's an loud crackles too , that can damage the speakers. :dunno:

it's on both a or b speakers ,
it happens even when i removed the jumpers (pre-amp to amp on the back side) ,
it happens even when i disconnected all input's (tube tuner . pc ) .
it happens even when i press and un-press all the buttons & levers .

something is probably wrong with the left amp board ...

i want to fix this , can u guy's help me to figure what and who ?
i read post's of members re-capping & re-building an i have always wanted to that too,
guess now am kind'a forced to, so maybe it's for best...


:needpics:View attachment 632542 View attachment 632543 View attachment 632544 View attachment 632542 View attachment 632543 View attachment 632544
Click to expand...
You are experiencing the dreaded "nova event". Those little unambiguous TO-220 transistors that are pepped through-out all vintage amplifiers get that black corrosion on the legs, It creeps up into the package and breaks the hermetic seal. With a junk pair of speakers, you can just touch each little transistor 'til you find one (or two) that make more/less noise. You might have noticed the long threads where folks change out (almost) every transistor in these prized monster receivers. The big reason is the newer silicon just sounds better, but also the old silicon does fail over time. I recently recapped a Sansui AU-9500 that came in for this very reason. The offending transistor was on the tone control board, after the volume control, so when it went nova, you couldn't "turn it down". But these little guys are employed though-out your receiver. If the offending transistor is on the pre-driver section of the amp, you will hear it when it goes nova, no matter what control you manipulate. Look for the ones with the black corrosion on the legs, (which may be all of them).
 
tutor_turtle said:
You are experiencing the dreaded "nova event". Those little unambiguous TO-220 transistors that are pepped through-out all vintage amplifiers get that black corrosion on the legs, It creeps up into the package and breaks the hermetic seal. With a junk pair of speakers, you can just touch each little transistor 'til you find one (or two) that make more/less noise. You might have noticed the long threads where folks change out (almost) every transistor in these prized monster receivers. The big reason is the newer silicon just sounds better, but also the old silicon does fail over time. I recently recapped a Sansui AU-9500 that came in for this very reason. The offending transistor was on the tone control board, after the volume control, so when it went nova, you couldn't "turn it down". But these little guys are employed though-out your receiver. If the offending transistor is on the pre-driver section of the amp, you will hear it when it goes nova, no matter what control you manipulate. Look for the ones with the black corrosion on the legs, (which may be all of them).
Click to expand...
I have never seen this happen with TO-220 case transistors. It is common with TO-92 case transistors, the small ones with black plastic cases that look like a half moon from the top.
 
My mistake, yes the TO-92's "jelly beans" called such by the old timers as they were pennies to buy back in the day,
 
the 2sc1451 is a far more dangerous part then a corrosion compromised to-92 transistor.
that round abberation should be universally replaced before it causes expensive damage..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom