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SX-1010 Rebuild Questions

I to got a very good SX 1010 with a toasty but working power board. I added heat sink and a cooling fan in 2007 and it has lasted without issue since. Below is a link to my post of how I fixed it and it was not as much effort and cost of rebuilding or replacing the board.
I am not normally for looking for things to fix but a toasty board is worth doing a little fix to prevent more issues.

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sx-1010-mods.111648/

Charlie
 
I to got a very good SX 1010 with a toasty but working power board. I added heat sink and a cooling fan in 2007 and it has lasted without issue since. Below is a link to my post of how I fixed it and it was not as much effort and cost of rebuilding or replacing the board.
I am not normally for looking for things to fix but a toasty board is worth doing a little fix to prevent more issues.

https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/sx-1010-mods.111648/

Charlie

CharlieBee, have you had the bottom of the SX-1010 open in this intervening time period? I would be quite interested in the dust situation down in there.
This question is prompted by my industrial past experience.
You might have hit some "sweet spots" as far as airflow, heat exchange and keeping the dust airborne.
 
Mark
Thanks for the question. The SX 1010 is in a room with four receiver systems it has direct competition for operating time plus five other systems in the house, shop, and garage so it does not get a lot of hours running. The SX1010 also competes with a Lionel O gauge train layout and a flat screen TV for operating time.
The room has central air conditioning with a highly efficient air filter. I have a computer fan blowing 24/7 pm the AC thermostat that does not accumulate much in the way of dust. I have not opened the bottom of the SX 1010 in several years to check it out. If the SX 1010 got daily use and lots of hours it probably would need to opened and cleaned at least yearly.
I would not use the SX1010 with cooling fan in the dusty garage or shop.

Charlie
 
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Larry, just for your general hoard of information, the term capsistors came from member Fred Longworth, a very talented guy who kept a bricks and mortar store (Classic Audio Repair, Inc.) going in San Diego for years and years. His last posting was Aug 4, 2019 but his last activity was April 16, 2021. IIRC jdurban1 worked for him - but I could be wrong.
Fred Longworth still has Classic Audio and a tech J
 
@lopezluna; He moved to La Mesa recently? Used to be on Adams St., near Normal Heights IIRC
Yes Sir. I have not been to the new location but I do know they relocated. I have had them repair a few pieces of equipment for me and they do a great job. I had them repair a Fisher ta-600 tube receiver wich now is back installed in the console it came in.
 
Last time I was in S.D. was Dec '73 in Hospital Corp school @ Balboa (the old Hospital). We lived in National city @ 7657 Skyline dr in 1958-59 when Dad was in Navy on a sub. It only went up to Meadowbrook dr. at the time, as we only had 3 houses past us under construction when we moved in. It was fun riding a 10 spd down the hill on Park Ave., from the hospital to broadway, hitting 60 on ocassion (I was 18 and invincible at the time, LOL!). Not so fun walking it back up the hill. Wore out a set of brake pads every week. Visit my great Aunt in Encinitas on Sat/Sun's when I didn't have the duty.
 
Last time I was in S.D. was Dec '73 in Hospital Corp school @ Balboa (the old Hospital). We lived in National city @ 7657 Skyline dr in 1958-59 when Dad was in Navy on a sub. It only went up to Meadowbrook dr. at the time, as we only had 3 houses past us under construction when we moved in. It was fun riding a 10 spd down the hill on Park Ave., from the hospital to broadway, hitting 60 on ocassion (I was 18 and invincible at the time, LOL!). Not so fun walking it back up the hill. Wore out a set of brake pads every week. Visit my great Aunt in Encinitas on Sat/Sun's when I didn't have the duty.
Nice, I live about a 15 minute drive north of Encinitas
 
Personally I’m a fan of replacing the dial lamps with LEDs. It’ll lower the heat a bit and take a load off of the dimmer switch - which is a problem area.
Do you have to lower the voltage for that on a 1010? I had to on a recent 737
 
Do you have to lower the voltage for that on a 1010? I had to on a recent 737
I don't recall having to lower the voltage but if you use discrete LEDs you'll need current limiting resistors.
Also, if it's AC I like converting it to DC with a diode and a capacitor.
 
I don't recall having to lower the voltage but if you use discrete LEDs you'll need current limiting resistors.
Also, if it's AC I like converting it to DC with a diode and a capacitor.
Thanks for the input!
 
Greg64. For the 1010 it is NOT a swap and run like a 737. 1010 is NOT wired same (or even remotely similar) to the 737 when it comes to lighting. The dimmer switch itself has a DC and an AC circuit running to and thru it, and if you Gefunk it up, you got a lot of fixin to do. Look back thru threads on 1010's for Mark the Fixers explanation of how it works and how you can work it for LED's. Honestly, I'd just run the incandescents, (8V 250ma) and be done with it. The Dimmer doesn't drop that much visually.
 
Greg64. For the 1010 it is NOT a swap and run like a 737. 1010 is NOT wired same (or even remotely similar) to the 737 when it comes to lighting. The dimmer switch itself has a DC and an AC circuit running to and thru it, and if you Gefunk it up, you got a lot of fixin to do. Look back thru threads on 1010's for Mark the Fixers explanation of how it works and how you can work it for LED's. Honestly, I'd just run the incandescents, (8V 250ma) and be done with it. The Dimmer doesn't drop that much visually.
Yikes - good to know - thanks for that! My dimmer switch is acting like it's very dirty and inconsistent. I would love for it to work right but if I can't get it cleaned out and happy I might look to by-pass it and leave on full glow..
 
Greg64. For the 1010 it is NOT a swap and run like a 737. 1010 is NOT wired same (or even remotely similar) to the 737 when it comes to lighting. The dimmer switch itself has a DC and an AC circuit running to and thru it, and if you Gefunk it up, you got a lot of fixin to do. Look back thru threads on 1010's for Mark the Fixers explanation of how it works and how you can work it for LED's. Honestly, I'd just run the incandescents, (8V 250ma) and be done with it. The Dimmer doesn't drop that much visually.
While I got you here Larry - do you know if Rick@Stereomanuals.com is still around? I saw you mention him on another post. I took a chance and sent an email but not sure if he's still active..
 
My dimmer switch is acting like it's very dirty and inconsistent. I would love for it to work right but if I can't get it cleaned out
the switch needs disassembled and cleaned properly.

don't just hose it with deoxit and work the switch to clean it as there is a good chance that the resistance from oxidation and the current trying to pass thru will heat up the contacts and cause the deoxit residue to burn and smoke.

feel free to ask me how i know ;)
 
the switch needs disassembled and cleaned properly.

don't just hose it with deoxit and work the switch to clean it as there is a good chance that the resistance from oxidation and the current trying to pass thru will heat up the contacts and cause the deoxit residue to burn and smoke.

feel free to ask me how i know ;)
Guess I'll be searching for that thread next lol

Thanks for the tip - It is appreciated
 
Years ago I put leds in mine and did nothing else. The dim button has minimal effect, but nothing bad has happened.
I like the reduced load on a hot running power supply enough to lose the dim function. You can always do something better but just bulb swapping won’t harm a thing.
 
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