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SX-1050 Full Rebuild Parts List - Completed Project

@jberenyi - I originally created the list in this thread based on a combination of of the AK archive, MTF's list, and input from @merlynski. From there, I added additional components that I wanted to replace 'while I was in there' (e.g. Mylar caps, additional diodes, etc.). Then, I made a few more iterations; to increase the voltage on some caps, etc.

So, I'd say if you're looking for the best place to start for a comprehensive SX-1050 rebuild list, this is probably a good source for that. But, be aware that you may not want to replace everything on the list, unless you're looking to replace nearly every component that's replaceable! (note: I didn't do the ceramics and several of the transistors on the tuner board that aren't recommended to replace).
 
Wyatt Weeks said:
@jberenyi - I originally created the list in this thread based on a combination of of the AK archive, MTF's list, and input from @merlynski. From there, I added additional components that I wanted to replace 'while I was in there' (e.g. Mylar caps, additional diodes, etc.). Then, I made a few more iterations; to increase the voltage on some caps, etc.

So, I'd say if you're looking for the best place to start for a comprehensive SX-1050 rebuild list, this is probably a good source for that. But, be aware that you may not want to replace everything on the list, unless you're looking to replace nearly every component that's replaceable! (note: I didn't do the ceramics and several of the transistors on the tuner board that aren't recommended to replace).
Click to expand...

Totally understand. I have no desire to replace anything in the tuner section. I don't have the proper test equipment to align it. But when it comes to caps that are not in the tuner section you can see by my exhaustive list that we have a lot of mismatches and I'm not sure if its because of an obsolete part through Mouser or because one is now better than the other i.e. electrolytic vs film cap.
 
Hello Everyone !
Can someone please direct me to the SX-1050 recap list in Word format that is mentioned in the above post ?
Thanks very much in advance.

Pioneer SX-939, SX-1010, SX-950, SX-1050, SX-1250
Technics SL-1700 Mk II + Shure V15 Type III
JBL-L100 Century
Pioneer HPM-100
Technics SU-V9 + ST-S6
Denon DRM-800A
Akai GX-650D
Denon DCM-420
Technics SL-P350
 
ceejay67 said:
Hello Everyone !
Can someone please direct me to the SX-1050 recap list in Word format that is mentioned in the above post ?
Thanks very much in advance.
/QUOTE]

You can copy the text from the thread and paste it in a text file, save it with a .csv file extension and open it in Excel. I think the reference to 'Word' was incorrect.
Click to expand...
 
ceejay67 said:
Hello Everyone !
Can someone please direct me to the SX-1050 recap list in Word format that is mentioned in the above post ?
Thanks very much in advance.
Click to expand...

emsrph said:
Looks like the Word file is attached to the Feb. 19, 2021 post?
Click to expand...

FYI: The file in post #20 with "Word" in the file title is an Adobe PDF file, it is not a Microsoft Word format file. MS Word files cannot be uploaded to AK because of the security risk from Macro commands that can be embedded in them. You may be able to extract a Word file from the PDF if you have the correct software.
 
If there is something from a PDF that is "locked" (can't select a section of the page and copy it). I print the page in high-resolution using my Canon MX922 (photo printer with scanner). I then scan the printed page using the scanning software provided with the printer. I do not use any software WIN 10 will try to use as it is lousy IMO.

I can scan up to 1200 dpi and will depending on whether it is a schematic or something that I want in the highest resolution. Parts lists I scan at 400 dpi. I may then copy the scanned the doc into whatever software I want including Word (as a picture).

I tend to edit the scan first using something like photo shop as I may cut out areas that I don't want. Usually, I will save the page as a .jpeg. From there I can move it to where-ever I want it. I often print the jpeg from photo shop onto Matt photo paper. I use Accent Opaque White Cardstock Paper, 65lb,250 sheets for approx $12 from Amazon (standard 81/2 x 11). Again, I can print it in hi-res if that seems necessary. Also good for creating J-cards for cassettes if you are into that sort of thing.

I will do this with original SM's also. This preserves them and I can "slice and dice" the scanned image however it want. Some original services manuals have important info in color which copies from HIfiengine ( a great resource) doesn't seem to generally have. Granted I will accumulate a large number of very large files but it makes my life easier when working on a piece of equipment and disk space is very cheap depending. I also copy text and photos from AK into Word for reference.

Sorry to jump in on this post and if this is too long and boring but pdf files can be a pain to deal with if you want to edit them and not pay the price for Adobe or other some software. I have yet to find good cheap software that will accurately translate a .pdf file directly into a Word doc. Maybe others have but this is how I handle it and get what I want.

Again, sorry to jump in on this post.
 
212 Protection chassis S2 ASR-015 0 0 0 0 653-LY1F-DC48

In this position my machine has an ASR-028 relay rather than an ASR-015. The 653-LY1F-DC48 is a bit of a different configuration than my stock relay.

The fastener slots on the ASR-028 are on the same side as the relay leads. The fastener slots on the LY1F are opposite of the relay leads.

With the machine laying on its top (upside down), the original ASR-028 drops through the chassis leaving the relay's leads facing up.

The only way I see to mount the LY1F-DC48 is to fasten it to the top of the chassis and reroute the wiring up through the chassis. This would then be visible from a bird's eye view. Am I missing something here? I would prefer not to have the wiring facing up.

What did you encounter in your amp @Wyatt Weeks ?

Edit: I found this....but mine is marked ASR-028.

SX-1050 #1: asr-20 protect relay pcb mount 48 v 653-MY4-02-DC48 (pcb mount pins)
SX-1050 #2: asr-015 soft start relay chassis mounted 653-LY1F-DC48 (solder tabs)
why is this soft start relay different than the original? answer:
a visual chassis inspection reveals a dpdt and that WOULD be a type ly2f relay that uses 48v, which doesn't exist,
there IS a ly2f type relay available, BUT it's available ONLY in a 24v coil!!
luckily 24v is available on awr-104 board if you want to convert it to the 24v, using the 653-LY2F-DC24
otherwise the ly1f type is available in both 24v or 48v (why convert to 24v when a 48v is available?)
all 3 (653-LY1F-DC48, 653-LY1F-DC24, 653-LY2F-DC24) are stocked in 40+ quan under $7.00

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...939-838-et-al-relay-replacement.150439/page-2
 

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Look at reusing the original clear cover and the new relay. They might work together?
Also I have some standoffs and hardware if you want to save some shipping. They will fit in an envelope.
 
zebulon1 said:
Look at reusing the original clear cover and the new relay. They might work together?
Also I have some standoffs and hardware if you want to save some shipping. They will fit in an envelope.
Click to expand...
The covers on the two i have here are not swappable. I appreciate you offering to send the hardware, but i already placed an order. Thank you very much. I have done everything but the filter caps and amp board. Saving the best for last.
 
Still waiting on the standoffs, but being perhaps the most impatient human on earth i finished things up and powered on. So far so good. My uncle bought this amp new in 77. Many components had never seen the light of day. I appreciate a stocker, but it was time to refresh. I didnt go as far as replacing everything on the op’s goodie list, but i can vouch for the majority first hand. Big thanks to @Wyatt Weeks, MTF, ole merlyn dawg, and zeb. Yall guys rock.

Update: the standoffs worked beautifully
 
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My 1050 (with reduced sound output - see separate thread) is going to an electronics doctor next week for fixing. He will check for obvious other capacitors and parts that could do with replacing

While it is opened up I’d like to replace parts that can make the biggest improvement to sound quality . Is there such a list?
 
Or are the eBay all in one kits the way to go (if so are the parts of better sound quality than the originals)?
 
I'm also in the process of recapping my SX-1050 and am slowly getting there. Going through Wyatt's thorough rebuild list and matching it up with some caps I already have, is it ok/wise to use Nichicon MUSE 10uf bipolar caps for C43 & C44 on the Control Amp board instead of the UKLs? Any risks besides a potentially slightly different sound?
 
I normally use 647-UKL1H100KDDANA on those.
I believe the study that everybody refers to when replacing polarized caps with bipolar caps points to 1uF and below. (look up for MIL-HDBK-217F 1991)
But, I had not taken the proper time to analyze the function of these specific capactors, perhaps it would be harmless, I would let others to comment.
 
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