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SX-1250 Recap

MIJ_Pioneer

MIJ_Pioneer

Super Member
Found a very nice SX-1250 in Chicago this weekend. Purchased it from a very nice older man at a store front that I stopped in just to browse what was available. This diamond in the rough was stacked on top of some BPC. At first the man requested a ridiculous price and I was ready to move on. He mentioned it was not tested and needed to be serviced. Excitement got the best of me and we started talking numbers. I broke every rule in the book, didn't even open it or hook up a DMM (or DBT) to it. I tested it on his desk and while FM/AM did have signal, there was no sound. Zero. Tested headphones and all speaker channels. Nothing, not even a hum. Well, excitement still got the best of me and I offered a price that was probably the best anyone would pay for a non-sound outputting 1250. I knew this model was common and parts would be available. It was in great shape. I paid the man and put it in the car, grinning like a Cheshire cat all the way home.

Got home, hooked it up to the DBT and was reminded that I purchased a non-sound outputting SX-1250. Grabbed the service manual and checked the offset/amp current pots. All within (exactly) in spec. There was a moment of frustration and googling, when I eventually read someone post to make sure the pre-amp jumpers are in.

....


There were no pre-amp jumpers. Snagged the ones on my SX-1280 and we have sound! YAY! Wow, this stereo sounds FANTASTIC, especially for all 40+year components. Very very impressed.

Now its time for a recap. Similar to the SX-1280, Mattsd has a thread for the 1250 and I will be following it very closley. Luckily nearly all the components from his 2012 BOM are in stock except for a few PW caps. I want to take a bit more time with this one, make sure I get any additional components like zeneer diodes and any additional film caps. Any suggestions are appreciated!


20190720_174923_resized.jpg 20190720_174927_resized.jpg 20190721_150134_resized.jpg IMG_20190721_205610_01.jpg


Filter Caps x4: 661-E36D101N223TDB7M https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/661-E36D101N223TDB7M

From Mattsd's thread (Thank you!):
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/pioneer-sx-1250-recap-and-restoration-thread.420950/

Equalizer Amp Board (AWF-021-A) (Q1 & 3 and Q2 & 4 recommended for gain matching, but is not required)

AWF-021-A: C11: 470uF 6.3v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E471B 470uF 25v
AWF-021-A: C12: 470uF 6.3v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E471B 470uF 25v
AWF-021-A: C17: 3.3uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
AWF-021-A: C18: 3.3uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA 3.3uF 50v
AWF-021-A: C25: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C26: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C27: 220uF 63v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1J221 220uF 63v
AWF-021-A: C28: 220uF 63v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1J221 220uF 63v
AWF-021-A: C29: 100uF 35v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1H101 100uF 50v
AWF-021-A: C30: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C31: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C32: 100uF 35v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1H101 100uF 50v

Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q4: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q5: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q6: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q7: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q8: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q9: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q10: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q11: 2SC1735: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q12: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q13: 2SA850: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q14: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU

Function Switch Board (AWS-094)

AWS-094: C1: 220uF 6.3v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1A221 220uF 10v

Flat Amp Board (AWG-042-0)

AWG-042-0: C7: 330uF 63v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1J331 330uF 63v
AWG-042-0: C8: 330uF 63v CEA: 667-EEU-FC1J331 330uF 63v
AWG-042-0: C9: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C10: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C11: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C12: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C21: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-042-0: C22: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-042-0: C27: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
AWG-042-0: C28: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
AWG-042-0: C31: 330uF 35v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1V331 330uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C32: 330uF 35v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1V331 330uF 35v

Q1: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q2: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q3: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q4: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q7: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q8: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU

Control Amp Board (AWG-041-A)

AWG-041-A: C1: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C2: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C3: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C4: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C11: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C12: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C13: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C14: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C17: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C18: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C19: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C20: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C27: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C28: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C29: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C30: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C33: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C34: 100uF 10v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C35: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C36: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C37: 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C38: 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C39: 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C40: 100uF 16v CEA: 667-EEU-FM1E101 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C43: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C44: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v

Q1: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q2: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q3: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q4: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:

Filter Amp Board (AWM-089-0)

AWM-089-0: C3: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWM-089-0: C6: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWM-089-0: C9: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWM-089-0: C12: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v

Q1: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q2: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA:

Power Amp Board (AWH-048-A) (This list times two for the two amp boards) (Q1 and 2 recommended for gain matching, but is not required)

AWH-048-A: C2: 10uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWH-048-A: C5: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
AWH-048-A: C11: .22uF 10v CSZA: 80-F612JF224J063A .22uF 63v
AWH-048-A: C15: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWH-048-A: C16: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v

Q1: 2SA750: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA750: 512-KSA992FBU
Q11: 2SC869: 512-KSC1845FTA

VR1: 470 ohm multi offset: 652-3296P-1-501LF 25 turn
VR2: 470 ohm single bias: 652-3386H-1-501LF 1 turn

TO-3 micas (Need a total of 8): 534-4636 (optional)

Protection Board (AWM-091-A)

AWM-091-A: C1: 470uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1C471MPD 470uF 16v
AWM-091-A: C2: 470uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1C471MPD 470uF 16v
AWM-091-A: C3: 4.7uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWM-091-A: C4: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWM-091-A: C5: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWM-091-A: C6: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v

Q4: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q5: 2SC1166 (2SC1384): 512-KSC2690AYS
Q6: 2SC1166 (2SC1384): 512-KSC2690AYS

S1: ASR-010 MY4-02-DC24 relay: 653-MY4-02DC24

Stabilizer/Power Supply Board (AWR-106-A)

AWR-106-A: C1: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A221MHD 220uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C2: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A221MHD 220uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C5: 47uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C6: 47uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C7: 22uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J220MED 22uF 63v
AWR-106-A: C8: 22uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J220MED 22uF 63v
AWR-106-A: C9: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C10: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C11: 47uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A470MPD 47uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C12: 47uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A470MPD 47uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C13: 1000uF 25v CEB: 647-TVX1V102MCD 1000uF 35v
AWR-106-A: C15: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C470MDD 47uF 16v
AWR-106-A: C16: 22uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C220MDD 22uF 16v
AWR-106-A: C17: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWR-106-A: C18: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C470MDD 47uF 16v
AWR-106-A: C19: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C470MDD 47uF 16v

Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q3: 2SC1318: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q4: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
Q5: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q7: 2SA720: 512-KSA992FBU
Q8: 2SA684: 512-KSA1220AYS
Q9: 2SD325: 863-MJE15032G
Q10: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q11: 2SC945: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q12: 2SD325: 863-MJE15032G
Q13: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
TO-220 micas (need 2 of them): 534-4672

D1: WZ-240: 512-1N5252B
D2: 1S2473: 512-1N4148
D3: WZ-240: 512-1N5252B
D4: 1S2473: 512-1N4148
D5: WZ-061: 512-1N5234B
D6: 1S2473: 512-1N4148

VR1: 4.7K Ohms single turn: 652-3386H-1-502LF
VR2: 4.7K Ohms single turn: 652-3386H-1-502LF

Soft start relay: LY2-DC48: 653-LY2-DC48 (NOTE: The new relay can fit into the old case without any modifications, just pop the new and old relay cases off and swap the old case to the new relay and remount it.)

Power Supply Board (AWR-107-0)

AWR-107-0: C6: 470uF 100v CEB: 647-TVX2A471MCD 470uF 100v
AWR-107-0: C7: 470uF 100v CEB: 647-TVX2A471MCD 470uF 100v
AWR-107-0: C8: 470uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V471MPD 470uF 35v
AWR-107-0: C9: 470uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V471MPD 470uF 35v

BOM List

647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA | 6
647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 12
647-UPW1V4R7MDD | 1
647-UPW1V221MPD6 | 1
647-UPW1H101MPD | 4
647-UKL1H3R3KDDANA | 2
647-UKL1E100KDDANA | 6
80-F612JF224J063A | 2
647-UPW2A471MHD | 4
647-UPW1E101MED | 1
647-UKL1V220KEDANA | 8
647-UKL1C221KPDANA | 4
667-EEU-FM1E471B | 2
667-EEU-FM1E101 | 10
667-EEU-FC1J221 | 2
667-EEU-FM1H101 | 2
667-EEU-FM1V331 | 2
667-EEU-FC1J331 | 2
667-EEU-FM1A221 | 1
647-UPW1C471MPD | 2
647-UPW1V471MPD | 2
647-UPW2A221MHD | 2
647-UPW1H470MED | 2
647-UPW2A470MPD | 2
647-UPW1C470MDD | 3
647-UPW1J220MED | 2
647-UPW1C220MDD | 1
647-TVX1V102MCD | 1
647-TVX2A471MCD | 2
512-KSA992FBU | 15
512-KSC1845FTA | 16
512-KSC2383YTA | 6
512-KSA1013YBU | 3
512-KSC2690AYS | 3
863-MJE15032G | 3
863-MJE15033G | 1
512-KSA1220AYS | 1
512-1N5252B | 2
512-1N4148 | 3
512-1N5234B | 1
534-4636 | 8
534-4672 | 2
653-MY4-02DC24 | 1
653-LY2-DC48 | 1
652-3296P-1-501LF | 2
652-3386H-1-501LF | 2
652-3386H-1-502LF | 2
 
Last edited:
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Very nice find. I have found one of the most important things with these (have rebuilt two of them) is to make sure you replace the horrible tantalum capacitors (look like eggs) with film or good quality audio grade electrolytic caps. These tants are prone to failure and add harshness to the sound. I used audio grad Nichicon for that and in most places. Also used film wherever I could fit them. Mine sounds amazing!
 
I've restored my 2nd one, took much more time on the second than the first like SB above. I also added one thing to the 2nd one: I replaced all of the output transistors. I first thought that I'd pull them and test, matching pairs and quads as close as possible, found that there were no close pairs, ... decided to replace them all (as each channel has a complimentary pair current-sharing with the other) for more reliability and presumably less distortion near its output limits, ... IMO worth the extra few $$ and it seems that the heatsinks are running cooler than I remember my first 1250 running. I also bought extra outputs so that I could match them per channel, pretty close batch fortunately so that was easy.

I stayed incandescent in the bulbs, prefer the appearance and again they lasted 50 years, ...

There are several threads here where the owners have added to the heatsink on the stabilizer board also (runs really hot, but seems to survive for 50 years). I didn't because it ran up to 165F and stays there on mine, but nothing wrong with a little overkill I suppose.

Nice find, and I do know well that giddy feeling, looking over your shoulder at your new find behind you every few miles on the way home, congratulations. I'm on my way to pick up SX-1010 #3 for some reason I can't explain, ...
 
Nice score!!!
However, there are several things missing from that BOM.
Bump up the 3.3k 3W bleeder resistors on the boards next to the filter caps to 5W.
Upgrade the protection relay flyback diode D5 to a 1N4004, and R23 (680 Ohm 2W) on that board to 3W.
On the power supply/stabilizer board, for every resistor rated above 1/4W, bump up one rating and replace, e.g. R13 680 Ohm 2W up to a 3W.

I would not hesitate to regrease all output transistors as well.
Warm white LED's in all the x5x series make the face "pop" and look much cleaner.
 
You got crazy lucky op. No offense, but if you don't know to look for pre-power jumpers you /really/ shouldn't be looking at broken gear...
 
Yes, but if he bought it for an in-op price I guess it's all good.

OTOH I'd feel guilty if I had made that purchase from a little-old-widow and got it home just to find it works, buying it from a shop where the shop owner should know better is just a very good day.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies, keep the great info coming. Going to knock out some quick replies before I have a chance to filter through everything and organize the build.

ivandezande said:
Nice score!!!
However, there are several things missing from that BOM.
Bump up the 3.3k 3W bleeder resistors on the boards next to the filter caps to 5W.
Upgrade the protection relay flyback diode D5 to a 1N4004, and R23 (680 Ohm 2W) on that board to 3W.
On the power supply/stabilizer board, for every resistor rated above 1/4W, bump up one rating and replace, e.g. R13 680 Ohm 2W up to a 3W.

I would not hesitate to regrease all output transistors as well.
Warm white LED's in all the x5x series make the face "pop" and look much cleaner.
Click to expand...

I will be re-greasing everything. In the past I have used Arctic Silver 5 Ceramic paste. Works pretty well, hope it will stand up with time. I'll grab the data for the 5W bleeder too.

Those are the diodes are have been looking for. Have yet to in detail anylize the service manual. I replaced those diodes and zeneer diodes on a 1280 with great results. I noticed they were not on this list.

Great idea on the resistors on the power/stabilizer board. I like this and will do.

Silentnet said:
You got crazy lucky op. No offense, but if you don't know to look for pre-power jumpers you /really/ shouldn't be looking at broken gear...
Click to expand...

Can't really back this one up. Lucky as hell, so much could have gone wrong. During the testing, the stereo was on the owners desk the stereo rear was facing him! I was facing the front, controlling all the knobs reporting that there was no audio. Due to how cluttered the place was and the size of the thing, I dind't event think to walk around and take a peak at the pre-amp jumpers. He didn't even notice.

He did say I have 30 days, if there is something major wrong with it I can bring it back. He was confident there was only something minor wrong with it. Works flawlessly after about 7 hours of audio producing use.

SaturationPt said:
Yes, but if he bought it for an in-op price I guess it's all good.

OTOH I'd feel guilty if I had made that purchase from a little-old-widow and got it home just to find it works, buying it from a shop where the shop owner should know better is just a very good day.
Click to expand...

The non operational price I paid was no thrift store price, it was discounted but not given away. It was his stereo repair shop that has owned for 49 years (he told me). He is no stranger to audio equipment and certainly knows pricing. He had a photo of him working on a work bench from 1983!

Spe@kerBox said:
Very nice find. I have found one of the most important things with these (have rebuilt two of them) is to make sure you replace the horrible tantalum capacitors (look like eggs) with film or good quality audio grade electrolytic caps. These tants are prone to failure and add harshness to the sound. I used audio grad Nichicon for that and in most places. Also used film wherever I could fit them. Mine sounds amazing!
Click to expand...

I know those ones! The little blue egg guys. Previously I used Nichicon FG and Muse to replace these. I later found out that some of them may require very low leakage (Nichicon KL I believe) and audio grade caps arent the best. If the farad rating is low enough I might try film caps this time.

SaturationPt said:
I've restored my 2nd one, took much more time on the second than the first like SB above. I also added one thing to the 2nd one: I replaced all of the output transistors. I first thought that I'd pull them and test, matching pairs and quads as close as possible, found that there were no close pairs, ... decided to replace them all (as each channel has a complimentary pair current-sharing with the other) for more reliability and presumably less distortion near its output limits, ... IMO worth the extra few $$ and it seems that the heatsinks are running cooler than I remember my first 1250 running. I also bought extra outputs so that I could match them per channel, pretty close batch fortunately so that was easy.

I stayed incandescent in the bulbs, prefer the appearance and again they lasted 50 years, ...

There are several threads here where the owners have added to the heatsink on the stabilizer board also (runs really hot, but seems to survive for 50 years). I didn't because it ran up to 165F and stays there on mine, but nothing wrong with a little overkill I suppose.

Nice find, and I do know well that giddy feeling, looking over your shoulder at your new find behind you every few miles on the way home, congratulations. I'm on my way to pick up SX-1010 #3 for some reason I can't explain, ...
Click to expand...

The output transistors, I noticed those for sale for about $8 a pop. Pretty cool they still exist new. I haven't gotten that far in my research to see if they need to be replaced or what type of matching is involved. If it's worth it I'll do it.

Yes that ride home was awesome. There were sweaty moments were I realized what I just had done, paying good cash for a "non working" 1250, but I was excited for the challenge.
 
I bought both of mine without plugging them in, if they're cosmetically excellent and complete they're easily worth north of 5 Benjamins already. If you're paying $800, $1,000, more, ... I can see worrying more about whether it works properly but for the most part they made a lot of these, some of them are being parted out, there's really nothing that you can't replace if you're patient.

There's probably one on a FedEx delivery truck somewhere right now, inadequately packed, Next week's part unit.

The MJ21193/4 do add $50-$60 to the BOM, about the same as two of the big caps https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/661-E36D101N223TDB7M but I think it's worth the trouble, need to remove them to replace the chalk that used to be grease anyway (or use silicone pads).

19 capacitors left in stock, ...
 
ivandezande said:
Nice score!!!
However, there are several things missing from that BOM.
Bump up the 3.3k 3W bleeder resistors on the boards next to the filter caps to 5W.
Upgrade the protection relay flyback diode D5 to a 1N4004, and R23 (680 Ohm 2W) on that board to 3W.
On the power supply/stabilizer board, for every resistor rated above 1/4W, bump up one rating and replace, e.g. R13 680 Ohm 2W up to a 3W.

I would not hesitate to regrease all output transistors as well.
Warm white LED's in all the x5x series make the face "pop" and look much cleaner.
Click to expand...

3.3k 5W resistor - Which option would be best? Examples I pulled

Wire Wound: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/WS5M3301J?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidMYzlI7tBU5A1n5wX9/ZQgJZHvaPN%2BEoDw==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/IRC-TT-Electronics/W2153301JALF?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidJZ74nKwK95CnsisEqj6I8k=

Metal Film: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-CGS/SQMR53K3J?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG9gR7/u94EVJ96s4SDqGaEw=

Protection Board D5 1N4004 - D1,D2,D3,D4, and D5 are all the same 1S2473 diode - Replace them all right? :)

680 Ohm Resistor - This should do the trick: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ERG-3SJ681A?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvmQ%2BOLa8n/M5GUYlen8HzH2ooskAj3o3E=

PS/Stabalizer board

680 Ohm Resistor (same as protection) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ERG-3SJ681A?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvmQ%2BOLa8n/M5GUYlen8HzH2ooskAj3o3E=

The other resistors will take a moment to organize. Keep them all Metal Oxide?
 
Last edited:
SaturationPt said:
I bought both of mine without plugging them in, if they're cosmetically excellent and complete they're easily worth north of 5 Benjamins already. If you're paying $800, $1,000, more, ... I can see worrying more about whether it works properly but for the most part they made a lot of these, some of them are being parted out, there's really nothing that you can't replace if you're patient.

There's probably one on a FedEx delivery truck somewhere right now, inadequately packed, Next week's part unit.

The MJ21193/4 do add $50-$60 to the BOM, about the same as two of the big caps https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/661-E36D101N223TDB7M but I think it's worth the trouble, need to remove them to replace the chalk that used to be grease anyway (or use silicone pads).

19 capacitors left in stock, ...
Click to expand...

That is what I was thinking, you put it into great words. After dealing with a 1280, knowing how unobtainable those outputs were and reading all day that the 1250 has discreet outputs, I felt a lot more confident in a semi-blind purchase.

Output transistors - I haven't looked into too much yet. I'm liking the idea. Do the new set need to be matched in any way or they old one out, new one in?

For the filter caps - These exists too, 181 in stock. 12mm shorter than the ones above (same 63.6 width), with ~4 more amps of ripple current and a 105C temp rating. I wonder if these are better... https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22b0zSdKjonvphyQwbyFGpqw=
 
MIJ_Pioneer said:
3.3k 5W resistor - Which option would be best?

Wire Wound: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/WS5M3301J?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidMYzlI7tBU5A1n5wX9/ZQgJZHvaPN%2BEoDw==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/IRC-TT-Electronics/W2153301JALF?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtbXrIkmrvidJZ74nKwK95CnsisEqj6I8k=

Metal Film: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-CGS/SQMR53K3J?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG9gR7/u94EVJ96s4SDqGaEw=

Protection Board D5 1N4004 - D1,D2,D3,D4, and D5 are all the same 1S2473 diode - Replace them all right? :)

680 Ohm Resistor - This should do the trick: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ERG-3SJ681A?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvmQ%2BOLa8n/M5GUYlen8HzH2ooskAj3o3E=

PS/Stabalizer board

680 Ohm Resistor (same as protection) https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ERG-3SJ681A?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvmQ%2BOLa8n/M5GUYlen8HzH2ooskAj3o3E=

The other resistors will take a moment to organize. Keep them all Metal Oxide?
Click to expand...
First option for the 3.3k, we don't need anything fancy here, it's just dropping voltage and getting hot.
No actually, just replace D5. The others, if you really want to, should be replaced with 1N4148. D5 is the only one seeing appreciable current across the relay coil, which still isn't much.
Those 680 ohm's are great, those are the exact ones I use. Metal Oxide or Metal Film is just fine.

Use E36D101LPN223TEA5M for the filter caps.
 
ivandezande said:
First option for the 3.3k, we don't need anything fancy here, it's just dropping voltage and getting hot.
No actually, just replace D5. The others, if you really want to, should be replaced with 1N4148. D5 is the only one seeing appreciable current across the relay coil, which still isn't much.
Those 680 ohm's are great, those are the exact ones I use. Metal Oxide or Metal Film is just fine.

Use E36D101LPN223TEA5M for the filter caps.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, learning a lot here. I've added the diodes to my notes. The filter cap - is 76.2mm the correct diameter? I used 661-E36D101N223TDB7M which are 63.5mm and they fit like a glove in a 1280.

Updated Stabilizer/Power Supply board (AWR-106-A)

R13: 680 Ohm 3w - ERG-3SJ681A

R14: 1.5k 2w = 1.5K 3W: 667-ERG-3SJ152A

R15: 3.3K 3W = 2 different ones. 3.3k 3w 667-ERG-3SJ332 or 3.3k 5w metal film 279-SQPR53K3J

R16: 3.3K 3W =2 different ones. 3.3k 3w 667-ERG-3SJ332 or 3.3k 5w metal film 279-SQPR53K3J

R17 = 3.9 1/2w CARBON FILM = 3.9 ohms 1W: 667-ERX-1SJ3R9

R18: 100 2w = 100ohm 3w: 667-ERG-3SJ101
 
MIJ_Pioneer said:
Thanks man, learning a lot here. I've added the diodes to my notes. The filter cap - is 76.2mm the correct diameter? I used 661-E36D101N223TDB7M which are 63.5mm and they fit like a glove in a 1280.

Updated Stabilizer/Power Supply board (AWR-106-A)

R13: 680 Ohm 3w - ERG-3SJ681A

R14: 1.5k 2w = 1.5K 3W: 667-ERG-3SJ152A

R15: 3.3K 3W = 2 different ones. 3.3k 3w 667-ERG-3SJ332 or 3.3k 5w metal film 279-SQPR53K3J

R16: 3.3K 3W =2 different ones. 3.3k 3w 667-ERG-3SJ332 or 3.3k 5w metal film 279-SQPR53K3J

R17 = 3.9 1/2w CARBON FILM = 3.9 ohms 1W: 667-ERX-1SJ3R9

R18: 100 2w = 100ohm 3w: 667-ERG-3SJ101
Click to expand...
My bad, use the 1280 ones. Same size in both, 2.5".
 
Here is my recapp list, took data from Mattsd and SaturationPT (thanks!) and combined them. Sticking with PWs for CEA caps and KL for higher uF ceanl, cssa, csza low leakage and Wima Film caps for lower uF low leakage. Added diodes and resistors as suggested here.

Not 100% final, when I do place the order and do my best to finalize it, I will update the OP. Still need to modify the Tuner section (not listed yet). Take a look, let me know if you see anything out of place.

No bold/underlining = MattSD
Any bold = SaturationPT
Underlining = I modified, usually the voltage got bumped

Pioneer SX-1250 recap list (Updated 10/3/17, added soft start relay replacement)

Board next to filter caps bleeder resistor x4 - 3.3kOhm 5w WS5M3301J


Main Filter Caps (Qty 4):
22,000 uF 80v CEA: E36D101LPN223TDB7M 22,000 uF / 100v
Bypass Caps (Stacked Film): Panasonic 2.2uF 250v ECQ-E2225KFB

X Equalizer Amp Board (AWF-021-A) (Q1 & 3 and Q2 & 4 recommended for gain matching, but is not required)

AWF-021-A: C11: 470uF 6.3v CEA: UPW1E471MPD 470uF / 25v
AWF-021-A: C12: 470uF 6.3v CEA: UPW1E471MPD 470uF / 25v
AWF-021-A: C17: 3.3uF 50v CEANL: WIMA MKS2C043301K00KSSD 3.3uF / 63v
AWF-021-A: C18: 3.3uF 50v CEANL: WIMA MKS2C043301K00KSSD 3.3uF / 63v
AWF-021-A: C25: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C26: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C27: 220uF 63v CEA: UPW2A221MHD6 220uF / 100v
AWF-021-A: C28: 220uF 63v CEA: UPW2A221MHD6 220uF / 100v
AWF-021-A: C29: 100uF 35v CEA: UPW1H101MPD 100uF / 50v
AWF-021-A: C30: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C31: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWF-021-A: C32: 100uF 35v CEA: UPW1H101MPD 100uF / 50v

Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q4: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q5: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q6: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q7: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q8: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q9: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q10: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q11: 2SC1735: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q12: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q13: 2SA850: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q14: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU

D1: 1S2473: 1N4148
D2: 1S2473: 1N4148
D3: 1S2473: 1N4148
D4: 1S2473: 1N4148
D5: WZ-240: 1N5252B
D6: WZ-240: 1N5252B

Function Switch Board (AWS-094)

AWS-094: C1: 220uF 6.3v CEA: UPW1C221MPD 220uF / 16v



Flat Amp Board (AWG-042-0)

AWG-042-0: C7: 330uF 63v CEA: UPW1J331MHD 330uf / 63v
AWG-042-0: C8: 330uF 63v CEA: UPW1J331MHD 330uf / 63v
AWG-042-0: C9: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C10: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C11: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C12: 22uF 16v CSZA: 647-UKL1V220KEDANA 22uF 35v
AWG-042-0: C21: 100uF 10v CEA: UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-042-0: C22: 100uF 10v CEA: UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-042-0: C27: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
AWG-042-0: C28: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
AWG-042-0: C31: 330uF 35v CEA: UPW1H331MPD 330uF 50v
AWG-042-0: C32: 330uF 35v CEA: UPW1H331MPD 330uF 50v

Q1: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q2: 2SC1775: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q3: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q4: 2SA872: 512-KSA992FBU
Q7: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q8: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU

X Control Amp Board (AWG-041-A)

AWG-041-A: C1: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C2: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C3: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C4: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-041-A: C11: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C12: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C13: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C14: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C17: 100uF 10v CEA: UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C18: 100uF 10v CEA: UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C19: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C20: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C27: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C28: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C29: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C30: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C33: 100uF 10v CEA: UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C34: 100uF 10v CEA: UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C35: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C36: 2.2uF 50v CEANL: MKS2C042201K00JO00 / 2.2uF 63v
AWG-041-A: C37: 100uF 16v CEA: UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWG-041-A: C38: 100uF 16v CEA: UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWG-041-A: C39: 100uF 16v CEA: UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWG-041-A: C40: 100uF 16v CEA: UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWG-041-A: C43: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWG-041-A: C44: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v

Q1: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q2: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q3: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q4: 2SC1312: 512-KSC1845FTA:

X Filter Amp Board (AWM-089-0)

AWM-089-0: C3: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWM-089-0: C6: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWM-089-0: C9: 4.7uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWM-089-0: C12: 10uF 25v CSZA: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v

Q1: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA:
Q2: 2SC1313: 512-KSC1845FTA:

Power Amp Board (AWH-048-A) (This list times two for the two amp boards) (Q1 and 2 recommended for gain matching, but is not required)

AWH-048-A: C2: 10uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1E100KDDANA 10uF 25v
AWH-048-A: C5: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v
AWH-048-A: C11: .22uF 10v CSZA: MKS2C032201B00JA .22uF / 63v
AWH-048-A: C15: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWH-048-A: C16: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v

Q1: 2SA750: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA750: 512-KSA992FBU
Q11: AWH-048: Q11: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA

VR1: 470 ohm multi offset: 652-3296P-1-501LF 25 turn
VR2: 470 ohm single bias: 652-3386H-1-501LF 1 turn

TO-3 micas (Need a total of 8): 534-4636 (optional)

AWH-048: D3: 1S1886: 1N4004
AWH-048: D4: 1S1886: 1N4004
AWH-048: D5: 1S2473: 1N4148
AWH-048: D6: 1S1886: 1N4004
AWH-048: D7: 1S1886: 1N4004
AWH-048: D8: 1S2471: 1N4148
AWH-048: D9: 1S2471: 1N4148
AWH-048: D10: 1S1886: 1N4004
AWH-048: D11: 1S1886: 1N4004

Protection Board (AWM-091-A)

AWM-091-A: C1: 470uF 6.3v CEA: UPW1E471MPD 470uF / 25v
AWM-091-A: C2: 470uF 6.3v CEA: UPW1E471MPD 470uF / 25v
AWM-091-A: C3: 4.7uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H4R7MDD 4.7uF 50v
AWM-091-A: C4: 100uF 16v CEA: UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWM-091-A: C5: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J101MPD 100uF 63v
AWM-091-A: C6: 100uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J101MPD 100uF 63v

Q4: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q5: 2SC1166 (2SC1384): 512-KSC2690AYS
Q6: 2SC1166 (2SC1384): 512-KSC2690AYS

R32 – 680 Ohm 3w - ERG-3SJ681A

D5 - 1N4004

S1: ASR-010 MY4-02-DC24 relay: 653-MY4-02DC24

Stabilizer/Power Supply Board (AWR-106-A)

AWR-106-A: C1: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A221MHD1TN 220uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C2: 220uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A221MHD1TN 220uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C5: 47uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C6: 47uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C7: 22uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J220MED 22uF 63v
AWR-106-A: C8: 22uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1J220MED 22uF 63v
AWR-106-A: C9: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C10: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H101MPD 100uF 50v
AWR-106-A: C11: 47uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A470MPD 47uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C12: 47uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A470MPD 47uF 100v
AWR-106-A: C13: 1000uF 25v CEB: 647-TVX1V102MCD 1000uF 35v
AWR-106-A: C15: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C470MDD 47uF 16v
AWR-106-A: C16: 22uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C220MDD 22uF 16v
AWR-106-A: C17: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWR-106-A: C18: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C470MDD 47uF 16v
AWR-106-A: C19: 47uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C470MDD 47uF 16v

Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q3: 2SC1318: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q4: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS
Q5: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q7: 2SA720: 512-KSA992FBU
Q8: 2SA684: 512-KSA1220AYS
Q9: 2SD325: 863-MJE15032G
Q10: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
Q11: 2SC945: 512-KSC1845FTA
Q12: 2SD325: 863-MJE15032G
Q13: 2SC945: 512-KSC2383YTA
TO-220 micas (need 2 of them): 534-4672

D1: WZ-240: 512-1N5252B
D2: 1S2473: 512-1N4148
D3: WZ-240: 512-1N5252B
D4: 1S2473: 512-1N4148
D5: WZ-061: 512-1N5234B
D6: 1S2473: 512-1N4148

R13: 680 Ohm 3w - ERG-3SJ681A

R14: 1.5k 2w = 1.5K 3W: 667-ERG-3SJ152A

R15: 3.3K 3W = 2 different ones. 3.3k 3w 667-ERG-3SJ332 or 3.3k 5w metal film 279-SQPR53K3J

R16: 3.3K 3W =2 different ones. 3.3k 3w 667-ERG-3SJ332 or 3.3k 5w metal film 279-SQPR53K3J


R17 = 3.9 (yes, 3.9) 1/2w CARBON FILM = 3.9 ohms 1W: 667-ERX-1SJ3R9

R18: 100 2w = 100ohm 3w: 667-ERG-3SJ101

VR1: 4.7K Ohms single turn: 652-3386H-1-502LF
VR2: 4.7K Ohms single turn: 652-3386H-1-502LF

Soft start relay: LY2-DC48: 653-LY2-DC48 (NOTE: The new relay can fit into the old case without any modifications, just pop the new and old relay cases off and swap the old case to the new relay and remount it.)

Power Supply Board (AWR-107-0)

AWR-107: C6: 470uF 100v CEB: MAL213819471E3 Vishay 470uF / 100v (105c)
AWR-107: C7: 470uF 100v CEB: MAL213819471E3 Vishay 470uF / 100v (105c)
AWR-107-0: C8: 470uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V471MPD 470uF 35v
AWR-107-0: C9: 470uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V471MPD 470uF 35v

AWR-107: D1: SIB01-04: VISHAY UF4005-M3/54 / 1 AMP / 600V (Ultra Fast Recovery)
AWR-107: D2: SIB01-04: VISHAY UF4005-M3/54 / 1 AMP / 600V (Ultra Fast Recovery)
AWR-107: D3: SIB01-04: VISHAY UF4005-M3/54 / 1 AMP / 600V (Ultra Fast Recovery)
AWR-107: D4: SIB01-04: VISHAY UF4005-M3/54 / 1 AMP / 600V (Ultra Fast Recovery)
AWR-107: D5: SIB01-01: ONSEMI 1N4004G 1 AMP / 400V
AWR-107: D6: SIB01-01: ONSEMI 1N4004G 1 AMP / 400V
 
These lists often change based on the available part, if the part isn't available in the voltage on the BOM, I would go up one step without concern, in the case of the main filter caps it is a matter of finding a part with the correct diameter for the clamps, correct height, correct (screw) termination, and in the case of my last 1250 refresh I used caps with a much higher ripple rating than the ones listed by others. Power filter caps can easily be over-thought.

As I like to tell people: it's not rocket surgery (LOL).
 
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