yeah, that's just wow. WTF?! :sigh:Wow, what a hack job, I thought I was bad but good god!
i know some boards have "places" for components which are not used. definitely find out though since someone has been in it previously. odd that a resistor is hanging out on the bottom. was the tech stoned when he installed it?
I was under the impression it's running now - just that he wants to make it right for the long term.Great thread.....keep the info and pictures comin'. I hope you get it running again.
Very nice.
I was under the impression it's running now - just that he wants to make it right for the long term.
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I also PM'd Echowars about his current source, since I will need to do something about that. In its current state, there is a resistor in place as a current source (replacing the fet and diode circuit) on the -80v supply, and the +80v supply has a resistor between the base of q203 and the gate of 207 with an intact fet and diodes.
Morning cup of coffee?
That much caffeine would kill a horse.
The rest of it.... a VERY familiar view.
Whatcha gonna do about the EchoWars current source?
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I have (somewhere) two different data sheets for the 2SK34...one says a maximim drain-source voltage of 30V, the other says 50V. Regardless, the JFET is the weak point in this design, and the last three 1980's I've rebuilt left here with a current source of my 'design' (the basic circuit has been around for years...I just made a minor change and had some tiny boards built).
The 2SA720 is the error amp for the negative 80V supply. I use the Zetex ZTX795A, 'cause it works well and I've always got a lot of them around. Its high-gain will assist tracking.
If you haven't (or a previous tech hasn't) already replaced the failure-prone original D212 and D213 35V zener diodes with a series pair of 17V and 18V 500mW diodes, now is the time to do so.
They are properly called a 'current source'.
Derek..here's that thread...not terribly informative, but the attached Word doc here will help.
Sorry..has been a very busy day. I'll get back to you late tonight or sometime in the morning.I also PM'd Echowars about his current source, since I will need to do something about that.
I'm curious as to what the ramifications of this is. My PS PCB has the same configuration in two locations related to the eighty volt power supply....and the +80v supply has a resistor between the base of q203 and the gate of 207 with an intact fet and diodes.
I'm curious as to what the ramifications of this is. My PS PCB has the same configuration in two locations related to the eighty volt power supply.
This might give you a start...
(PM me)
Yes, that is a MTF rebuilt Power Supply, with MTF builds of EchoWars's current sources, operating...
and follow these links:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/92904-pioneer-sx-1980-regulator-driving-me-insane.html
here's the document:
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=50480&d=1180659339
The to-126 cases are optional - stick with the zetexes... they really don't get hot and the zetexes can handle some momentary current and heat when necessary.
I've been using Fairchilds, and thus a few to-126's...
hard to say about moving the to-220's.... I've been concerned about their heat load from the start, but the idea of pumping more heat into the power amp's heat sinks than it is generating itself just seems like asking for obscure problems.
These TO-220's get hot enough to raise the temp of the heatsink, which will muck with the bias current. You may attempt to mount them remotely somewhere, but I'd not do it on the output transistor heatsink.
I have taken to replacing those 220µf 160V axial caps with short, fat radial caps (Panasonic ED, #P13512-ND)...intentionally mounting them 'off center' to keep them as far away from the heatsink as possible. This allows more airflow around the heatsink, and keeps the capacitor cooler as well. It is not the neatest solution mounting-wise, but if you replace those hot-running TO-220's with nice rugged On-Semi transistors (MJE15032/33), then I think it's a combination that ought to be good for 20 years or more.