We need to do some ohmmeter work. The + 60v and -60v didn't show up at the amplifier card according to the diode voltage readings you posted. Without those voltages, the amp has no hope of working correctly. D111, D112, D117 & D118 are supposed to allow the +54v and -54v to substitute for the missing + - 60 volts, but you read zero volts on d111, d112 cathodes and rally strange stuff on D117, D118...
edit: it may be safer to first trace the circuit paths looking for breaks before turning on the power and checking / verifying the voltages. Also you want to have all but the tip of your dmm probe insulated, so nothing can get shorted out accidentally. (Did so, see no visible and the DMM ohm check results are below for the path)
It starts at the pair of big caps you put the bleeders on. Turn the unit on with the DBT connected, and verify that there is +60v at one capacitor / bleeder terminal and -60v at the other. These measurements are taken from a ground reference - the black multimeter lead. (There is +51vdc on the main cap closest to the rear of the unit, on the pin closest to the center of the board. And there is -51vdc on the other main cap, closest to the front of the unit, on the pin closest to the center of the board. Both referenced to ground.)
we want to be sure the caps are charging and have the appropriate voltage. (At +51vdc and -51vdc...)
Then CAREFULLY reach over and measure the voltages on the heatsinks for the driver transistors - the collectors for those transistors are connected to the + and - 60v, the metal tab is connected to the collector, and the heatsinks were not insulated from the metal mounting tab. The outer two heatsinks are at -60v(orange wires) (Got -51vdc on these outer two heatsinks, with DMM black lead on orange wires and red lead on heatsink), the inner two heatsinks are at +60v(red wires) (Got +41vdc on these inner two heatsinks, with DMM black lead on the red wires and the red lead on the heatsink).
Turn off the unit. Make sure with the voltmeter that the voltages at the cap have decayed to zero. (Did so. Went to zero)
IF you find the + & - 60 volts at the heatsinks, that is all, post and let me know it's there.
If the heatsinks aren't at these voltages, then you have to find out why not, starting at the capacitor's terminals, going off the board on the pair of orange black and red cables across the unit's bottom to the amplifier board, then from the connectors on the amp board to the heatsinks through the transistors. There has to be essentially zero ohms from the cap tyerminals to the heatsinks. (With power off and caps discharged, from the main cap closest to the front of the receiver, pin closest to the center of the board to the inside heatsinks has continuity, 0 ohms. From this same main cap pin to the outside heatsinks it starts off at OL - No Continuity then climbs slowly on the meter, as if possibly charging a cap???. Then from the main cap closest to the rear of the receiver, pin closest to the center of the board has continuity, 0 ohms to all four heatsinks.)
Ideally, before applying power you could verify the ohms. The orange wires (-60v) go to the two heatsinks on the outside edges of the board, and the two heatsinks towards the center of the board go to the red (+60v) wires. (This one was tricky. When I check for continuity on the respective heatsinks with their respective wire color from the rectifier board, they start off for a split second with continuity, then lose the continuity and the ohms begin to climb. Not intermittent, but increasing resistance. I found myself trying this repeatedly with the same results, like chasing a ghost to get the continuity.)
At the capacitors, the cap terminals closest to the top of the unit are the grounds, and the cap terminals closest to the center of the board are the +60 v which exits at the red wire and is the cap closest to the back panel of the unit, and the -60v from the cap closer to the big transformer exiting through the orange wire.
This is the next step - get the appropriate polarity of 60v to the appropriate heatsinks for the driver (to-220) transistors along the bottom edge of the board.
I already did all of this on the bench unit, connecting to the appropriate capacitor connection, and probing the two appropriate heatsinks, then repeating for the opposite polarity.
