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SX-750 recap

Mission Accomplsihed

I know it's been quite some time, but I finally got around to ordering the parts in October and installed them over Thanksgiving and Christmas break. This thing is a BEAST now! I put it through some major torture tests with some loud, "bassy" electronic music and four speakers (Ohm Model D and Pioneer CS-77A) and it handled everything like a champ. Heck, my ears had a harder time handling the volume than the receiver! If I had an instrument that could measure the power output, I'd use it. But, I'm a poor college kid and this is my second project ever. I'll buy one of those fancy meters one of these days.

Throughout the project I had no errors at all and nothing went horribly wrong. I triple checked every transistor I installed and made sure I knew what each pin was for each transistor. I've attached a picture showing my method for success. I look up the data sheet, draw the transistor on the package, and label the pins. I think everyone should do this, if they don't already. It decreases the potential for error by a very large magnitude. My biggest scare was when I went to test the unit after replacing Q5-8 on the amp board. There was no sound at all coming from the FM radio, which was what I had been using as a test source the entire time. Turns out I had turned FM muting on and it wasn't centered on a station. I was very relieved to find out I didn't screw something up!

Also, I did notice a few errors in the service manual. If I remembered exactly what they were, I'd post it here, but I didn't take notes. The errors were mostly found in the drawings of the boards, like there being two "C2" 's present on one board or a transistor's pins being labeled in the wrong configuration. All I can say for this is go with what's printed on the actual board. I trusted that before I trusted the manual drawings and it was a good move.

Upon completion of the insides of the receiver, I noticed the peeling wood vinyl laminate on the face plate and case and couldn't help but go the extra mile and fix that too. I did some research, tried Home Depot and Lowes, and the best solution to fix it is definitely something similar to contact paper. However, I did not like how the contact paper at Lowes and Home Depot looked. It was quite ugly and would have looked awful on the receiver. The guy at Home Depot ended up directing me to Parts-Express.com where they sell Dayton Audio wood vinyl laminate. It's expensive and so is shipping, but it's worth it. It was very easy to install too. Before the installation, I peeled off as much of the old laminate as I could. This created a nice clean surface for the new stuff to stick to. I was expecting to have to redo certain sections, but I was very careful and ended up only having to redo one side of the face plate. The stuff is very easy to work with and even easier to cut. After I finished that, I did a meticulous cleaning of the controls with some white vinegar. If there's a better way to clean these silver-faced receivers, I'd like to know. The vinegar did well with removing dirt, but I'd like the thing to really shine. I may try the mothers aluminum polish I have at my apartment at school. Normally you use that on a car, but hey, maybe it'll make the face plate on this thing look awesome. Someone please stop me now if they know the polish will destroy it haha.

I thank everyone who helped me initially with this, with special thanks directed to Mark for the semiconductor and pot list. Merry Christmas, everyone!
 

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I had a 1050 faceplate that had a large scrape on the bottom. You wouldn’t see it when the set was sitting on a shelf except for a small ding on the lower edge of the face where the damage began. Anyway, I decided to check this faceplate out, I felt I had nothing to lose. I sanded out the damage and found that the surface has a finish on it. I don’t know if it is paint or an anodized finish but it has some thickness to it (maybe .002-.003 thousands at the most). I wish I took some pictures but I ended up using some plastic filler (the gouge was that deep) and sprayed silver Krylon to the bottom edge to mask the slight butchery I caused. It looked a lot better than the original damage. You have to be careful when dealing with those faceplates and sometime you have to live with the blemishes; or you may end up causing even more damage trying to fix the little stuff.
Very nice Thread!
Happy New Year! Bob
 
Not to be pushy, but when on back order, perfectly reasonable alternates are usually available.

And that's a 9 tailed cat in a room full of rocking chairs :D

ALTHOUGH, mouse at a barn dance comes close too....


awe-073 Q11 2sa725 is a mic amp, so it's safe to pop in a ksa882 there...

not my most polished list:

and besides the "leave alone",
there are transistors included that really don't need replacing,
but are there in case a dead one is found and a replacement indicated.

Filters & Muting Assembly
AWM-094 Q1 2SA733-Q mute leave alone!! 512-KSA992FBU
AWM-094 Q2 2SA733-Q mute leave alone!! 512-KSA992FBU
AWM-094 Q3 2SC945-R leave alone!! 512-KSC1845FTA
AWM-094 Q4 2SC945-R leave alone!! 512-KSC1845FTA
AWM-094 Q5 2SC945-R leave alone!! 512-KSC1845FTA
AWM-094 D1 1S2473 leave alone!! 512-1n4148
AWM-094 D2 1S2473 leave alone!! 512-1n4148

Power Amplifier Assembly
AWH-046 Q1 2SA798-F dual/diff leave alone
AWH-046 Q2 2SA798-F dual/diff leave alone
AWH-046 Q3 2SC1438-V vas 512-KSC2383YTA
AWH-046 Q4 2SC1438-V vas 512-KSC2383YTA
AWH-046 Q5 2SD357-C driver 512-KSC2690AYS
AWH-046 Q6 2SD357-C driver 512-KSC2690AYS
AWH-046 Q7 2SB527-C driver 512-KSA1220AYS
AWH-046 Q8 2SB527-C driver 512-KSA1220AYS
AWH-046 D1 1S2473 512-1n4148
AWH-046 D2 1S2473 512-1n4148
AWH-046 D3 STV4H leave alone
AWH-046 D4 STV4H leave alone
AWH-046 VR1 100 ohms might not fit 652-3386H-1-101LF
AWH-046 VR2 100 ohms might not fit 652-3386H-1-101LF



Power Supply & Protection Assembly
AWR-099 Q1 2SC869-C o/c 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q2 2SC869-C o/c 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q3 2SC945-A dc 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q4 2SC945-A dc 512-KSC1845FTA
AWR-099 Q5 2SA733-Q logic leave alone!! 512-KSA992FBU
AWR-099 Q6 2SC945-A dischg 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q7 2SC1384-R relay drive 512-KSC2690AYS
AWR-099 Q8 2SD313-D pass +13 512-KSC2073TU
AWR-099 Q9 2SC945-Q dar +13 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q10 2SD313-D pass +34 512-KSC2073TU
AWR-099 Q11 2SC945-Q dar +34 512-KSC2383YTA
AWR-099 Q12 2SB507-D pass -38 512-KSA940TU
AWR-099 D1 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D2 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D3 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D4 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D5 1S1555 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D6 1S1555 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D7 1S1555 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D8 1S1554 512-1N4148
AWR-099 D9 1S1555 512-1n4004
AWR-099 D10 WZ-140 (Zener) 512-1N5244B
AWR-099 D11 WZ-240 (Zener) 512-1N5252B
AWR-099 D12 WZ-140 (Zener) 512-1N5244B

Power Supply Assembly
AWR-100 D1 1S1885 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D2 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D3 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D4 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D5 1S1886 512-1n4004
AWR-100 D6 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404
AWR-100 D7 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404
AWR-100 D8 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404
AWR-100 D9 SR3AM-8 512-1N5404

Tuner, AF & Control Assembly
AWE-073 Q2 2SC535-B mixer leave alone!!
AWE-073 Q3 2SC717 loc osc leave alone!!
AWE-073 Q11 2SA725-G mic amp 512-KSA992FBU
AWE-073 Q12 2SC1344-D mic amp 512-KSC1845FTA
AWE-073 Q13 2SA733-Q muting 512-KSA992FBU
AWE-073 D1 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D2 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D3 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D4 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D5 1S188FM-1 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D6 1S188FM-1 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D7 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D8 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D9 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D10 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D11 1S2076 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D12 WZ-192 (Zener) no 19v zener , 18 leave alone!!
AWE-073 D13 WZ-210 (Zener) no 21v zener, 24 leave alone!!
VR1 C92-048 (Semi-fixed, 47k-B) meter cal leave alone!!
VR2 ACP-055 (Semi-fixed, 4.7k-B) 76khz leave alone!!
VR3 C92-047 (Semi-fixed, 100k-B) sep leave alone!!
VR4 ACV-135 (Balance) leave alone!!
VR5 ACV-179 (Volume) leave alone!!

Amplifier Assembly
AWK-065 Q1 2SA725-G (2SA640-E) 512-KSA992FBU
AWK-065 Q2 2SA725-G (2SA640-E) 512-KSA992FBU
AWK-065 Q3 2SC1313-G 512-KSC1845FTA
AWK-065 Q4 2SA726-G (2SA640-E) 512-KSA992FBU
What does "pass" and "dar" (on Q8, Q9) stand for? thanks
 
Q8 & Q9 form a darlington transistor
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darlington_transistor
in this case as the pass element in a +13v power regulator, pass is "power pass"

a pair of transistors that mainly act as one super gain transistor at the expense of two Vbe drops (1.2v vs. 0.56v)
Q8 pass +13 is the power element of the darlington that drives the current
Q9 darl +13 is the gain element of the darlington.

these lists are all notes to myself, that I started copying out and sharing (without editing out the notes)..
 
Power Amplifier Assembly
AWH-046 Q1 2SA798-F dual/diff leave alone
AWH-046 Q2 2SA798-F dual/diff leave alone
AWH-046 Q3 2SC1438-V vas 512-KSC2383YTA
AWH-046 Q4 2SC1438-V vas 512-KSC2383YTA
AWH-046 Q5 2SD357-C driver 512-KSC2690AYS pinouts
AWH-046 Q6 2SD357-C driver 512-KSC2690AYS pinouts WATCH
AWH-046 Q7 2SB527-C driver 512-KSA1220AYS pinouts
AWH-046 Q8 2SB527-C driver 512-KSA1220AYS pinouts
AWH-046 D1 1S2473 512-1n4148
AWH-046 D2 1S2473 512-1n4148
AWH-046 D3 STV4H leave alone
AWH-046 D4 STV4H leave alone
AWH-046 VR1 100 ohms might not fit 652-3386H-1-101LF
AWH-046 VR2 100 ohms might not fit 652-3386H-1-101LF
 
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