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Tandberg TR 2060 No Sound Right Channel

T

TomHarrison1

Active Member
Having recently got a 2080 back up and running with the help of John and Gerrard here, I now have a 2060 that needs help. No sound in right channel, no voltage reaching right outputs. That's about as far as I've gotten. Oh, and dim bulb does not light up on Power on, protection relay clicks off after a couple of seconds as it should.

I checked HiFiEngine, and they have schematics for the 2060 and 2060L, but both are fairly fuzzy. No full Service Manual.

Does anyone know where I can find the 2060 Service Manual, or have a copy they can send me. Also, what is the difference between the TR 2060 and TR 2060L?

Other observations, there are some square white capacitors on the amp board that look original. They are

C713/714, 0.047, 20%, 100- (is that 100 volts?)
C715/716, 0.047, 20%, 100-
C718, 0.1, 20%, 100-

However, on the left channel, C717 appears to be a normal film style cap, that in it's current position is resting against R753, a large 3W resistor and the cap looks like it is cracked from heat. What type of transistor should I replace these with? (Note, this is on left channel, while it's the right channel that does not play).

I'm going to try and read the fuzzy scans and take some key measurements, make sure supply is reaching the right channel...
 
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OK, supplies appear good. I unplugged each of the output transistors on both channels and checked them and they all appear to be good. Plugged them back in and powered up. I am getting clean FM radio in both channels. But its intermittent. And when they are both playing, and I turn volume up to 4, left channel now cuts out. Actually, sometimes one channel cuts out, sometimes both.

I did a full Deoxit on volume, balance and other pots yesterday. Maybe I need to do it again.

This 2060 does have the single large Frako on the power board along with 2 each on the amp board for each channel. I replaced these on my 2080 as a couple of them were not measuring proper uF (one measured 0 uF). Does this 2060 sound like its a cap issue or leaking transistor issue that fails at higher volume? Or is it just dirty?
 
After another Deoxit cleaning, no change. Music still cuts out with any volume change on one or both channels. Almost always left side cuts out and then right goes with anymore volume change. Seems like it would be a dirty pot and that both channels wouldn't be failing at same time. I get same results with headphones. Music cuts out on same channels when it goes.

Maybe the relay needs cleaning, replacing?
 
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Came across this older 2060 thread that sounds close to what I am seeing as well.

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/tandberg-tr-2060-one-channel-cutting-out.694329/

1. Do I need to remove the relay to clean it? What's the trick to popping the cover off in place without unsoldering and removing it?

2. What caps on the amp can be suspect? Are these the metal electrolytics ones made in Germany? Not sure they are labeled Frako from what I can see. I'm struggling to identify them on the fuzzy schematics I have. But it looks like one pair may be mislabeled as C723/724, when in fact they are C725/726 according to labels on the board itself. The other pair are C711/712. All four appear to be 47 uF according to schematic. But I can't see that on the caps themselves. I only see 50/100 on each. I suppose 47 is close enough to 50..
 
There is no full service manual, just the "Circuit Diagrams" manual. You can however reference the TR 2025 full manual for such things as doing FM alignment; the power amp bias settings are marked in the 2060 Circuit Diagrams. 2060L is a 2060 with longwave band in addition to AM/FM. You lose one of the FM preset buttons to that L band; otherwise it's identical to the 2060. You can use either schematic for things like preamp, power amp service. If it comes down to legibility, I have high res scans of both and the original hard copies but haven't gotten around to editing them into emailable format so far.

Usually bad relay contacts will work the opposite, i.e. channel drops out at lower volume but comes back if you crank it up or tap on the relay/area around the relay. I'd clean the carbon off them anyway though, easy to do and will help prolong the service life of the relay.

I'd always replace the Frako caps you mentioned, seen too many of them bad to mess around with them at this point.

John
 
Can you post pics of the caps you're asking about? I have a bunch of 2060 boards sitting around, will take a look.

John
 
Hi John. Here are a couple pics. The metal ones are axial and silver in color. The second one on the right channel is hidden beneath the tuner board.

The 2nd pic shows left channel labels as C711 and C725.

Can the relay cover be popped of in place or do I need to remove the relay first?
 

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I've normally been able to pop the covers off w/o breaking them, but safest way with old plastic parts like that is to desolder the relay so you can get to the side latches better.

I was more curious about the smaller caps, but I can see in the pics they're just typical older film caps. Sounds like maybe someone replaced one of those with a newer part at some point.

The Frako axials should be replaced, IMO. Have you taken any measurements for DC offset?

John
 
Checked DC at speaker outputs w load and see -16mV left and -25mV right.

John can you confirm what size C711 and C725 should be?
 
Also, there a few 0.1 uF film caps that looked cracked. Specifically, C717 and the 4 surrounding the rectifier (C775/777/779/780). What voltage should I get for replacements?

Also C710 looks odd. This should be a 27pF. But mouser only sells 22 or 33pF. Do I buy the smaller one or larger one as a replacement.
 
On the bottom of the board I see TR 44192-8.

If you look closely at the 4 caps around the rectifier you can see some cracking.
 

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John. Just powered it up and ran volume up. Both channels were playing fine. Then left went out at about 4 or 5 volume. Cold sprayed each of the left channel transistors. No reaction. Tapped on relay and bingo. Music cutting in out of both. Tapped enough to get both back again.

I'll pull relay in the next day or so and give it a god cleaning with your business card Deoxit approach.

I think long term I still want to replace metal electrolytic caps and the cracked film caps as well. So if you can help with proper sizes that would be most appreciated.
 
John, as far as bulbs go, one of the dial bulbs is burned out. How do you remove these? They don't appear to unscrew. Do you carry bulb kit for 2060? I'll check with owner to see if he wants me to place an order.
 
The lamps are wedge base, they just pull out. Yes, I have a listing for this series for lamp replacements - look for 2025/2030/2040/2045/2060 lighting kit. They're a fairly common lamp but the originals are frosted, which aren't available these days - I have to paint them w/glass paint to get that effect. Dial indicator lamp is an odd one, both electrically and it's red (with clear acrylic pointer) unlike the larger models (clear lamp/red acrylic indicator). No idea why they didn't just use the same solution from the larger models but they didn't.

I'll take a look on the film caps, for that application probably not critical to match the value exactly.

When you have the relay out, make sure there's no sign of overheating on the arms and that they still have good spring to them, and to make sure the contacts are in decent shape/not pitted - if any of that doesn't check out it's time for a new relay.

John
 
Hi Tom and John, Tom:actually you found another Tandberg, so you are deemed to like this stuff forever ;).

BTW the tropical fish caps are Philips, color code here http://www.petervis.com/electronics/capacitor/capacitor-colour-code.html

Myself, I have a lot of NOS ones, even those have cracks between the side and the body. Although I would replace them indeed having the receiver opened up, probably the cracks will not give a problem.

I have pictures of my only TR2060 repair and there are some of these almost white ones in there and green ones, but not the "tropical fish" (The Dutch techs call them Engelse Drop = "English Liquorice capacitors" )
 
Hi Gerrard. I do have some white ones that are labeled 0.1 20% 100- as well as some tropical fish which all appear to be brown/black/yellow/black/red. According to the calculator those are 0.1 20% 250v.

Before pulling one along with the 2 metal ones on left channel, I pulled and cleaned relay contacts. I didn't get any carbon marks on my business card. Appeared clean. But after reinstalling I get volume on both channels and it doesn't cut out as I raise volume.

So. Can I just replace the 0.1 fishy film caps with modern film caps of the same size? 0.1/20%/250v?

I have attached a pic of C717 showing the one crack. There is another crack on the other end, other side. All 5 of the cracked ones I see are same colors and have similar cracks.

Edit...my fish measures .111 uF

As for the metal caps that the schematic seem to indicate should be 47uF, mine are labeled RDE F2 100/50 W Germ EB-40 85 degree C

I measured the 2 that I pulled. One is 108 uF. The other measures 113 uF.

So the markings on them would seem to indicate that they are 100 uF 50v. Right?

Can you guys confirm what they should be since the schematic says 47 uF.
 

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Yeah but it may take me some time to get to one of those boards - they're inside a few 2060 chassis I have lined up waiting for service or to become parts donors, and I'm gone on a speaker retrieval mission this weekend.

John
 
I have always seen ROE instead of RDE, but indeed it could be a D.....Anyway it is the "Roederstein" brand. whether O or D it can fit as a shortcut for the logo....
 
Hi John and Gerrard. I ordered .1uF films and 100uF 63v electrolytics and all is well. I discovered one of the din cables the owner provided only works on left channel unless I switch to mono using the cable w iPod connected to Tape1. I tried the other din he provided and am getting stereo.

Or maybe I don't understand din. The 2 rca din has only 3 pins and only produced left channel. Maybe that one is for the phono. The other one has 2 pairs of rcas and seems like that would be Tape out and in. It does work with both channels and my iPod.

Radio plays fine in stereo.

But I'm seeing -12mV left and -19mV right at speaker outs. Without a service manual I'm not sure how to adjust voltage. Do you guys have steps for a 2060?
 
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