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Tandberg TR2055 - Needs Replacement Relay

If - as you say, the contacts on yours are immaculate - just spend a bit more time setting it up so that the contacts operate properly and of course are clean, as they should already be clean from what you say. It will take less time than sourcing and ordering and fitting a new one. And free of course.
 
If - as you say, the contacts on yours are immaculate - just spend a bit more time setting it up so that the contacts operate properly and of course are clean, as they should already be clean from what you say. It will take less time than sourcing and ordering and fitting a new one. And free of course.

I agree free is nice and I agree it would be nice to keep the original relay. It just seems weak to me. The physical position of the receiver, heat inside the case, etc etc all make a difference in terms of whether it works or not. I have tried to get the contacts as close as possible to each other. The contact surface is immaculate unless the corrosion is invisible and remains after thorough cleaning.
 
I agree free is nice and I agree it would be nice to keep the original relay. It just seems weak to me. The physical position of the receiver, heat inside the case, etc etc all make a difference in terms of whether it works or not. I have tried to get the contacts as close as possible to each other. The contact surface is immaculate unless the corrosion is invisible and remains after thorough cleaning.

OK, I thought of another way of describing the situation. If the problem was corrosion on the contacts or being spaced too far from the armature contacts this assumes the relay activates. Often it doesn't activate, not because the protect circuit is not telling it to but because it is just weak. I can tap on it with a screwdriver handle and the relay will activate. How else do I interpret that symptom but a weak relay? The armature moves freely too so it's not stuck.
 
OK, I thought of another way of describing the situation. If the problem was corrosion on the contacts or being spaced too far from the armature contacts this assumes the relay activates. Often it doesn't activate, not because the protect circuit is not telling it to but because it is just weak. I can tap on it with a screwdriver handle and the relay will activate. How else do I interpret that symptom but a weak relay? The armature moves freely too so it's not stuck.

That being the case you're saying that the pull in force of the relay is poor/weak. That's either due to the relay not functioning properly (relay coil problems such as intermittent/partially short or open circuit, or a mechanical issue) or, the coil voltage being insufficient ie too low for a firm pull in. Have you checked those? Because if it's the coil voltage that's too low, buying a new relay won't fix the problem.
 
That being the case you're saying that the pull in force of the relay is poor/weak. That's either due to the relay not functioning properly (relay coil problems such as intermittent/partially short or open circuit, or a mechanical issue) or, the coil voltage being insufficient ie too low for a firm pull in. Have you checked those? Because if it's the coil voltage that's too low, buying a new relay won't fix the problem.

I checked coil resistance and it's at the rated 1kOhm and voltage going to the relay/coil is 27.8 VDC, schematic says 28 VDC. Minimum to operate is 13 VDC with this relay. I got one of the relays I ordered yesterday. I will find out soon if the problem indeed is the relay.
 
It's alive ... I put in a relay suggested by @MisterFishey in a post from 2018 ostensibly for the 2025/2040. The specs were good for my 2055 but the contacts are not bifurcated like the relay being replaced. Fortunately it is just plug-in with the recommended socket. It works beautifully and I couldn't be happier. Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried several times to bring back the old one but it was just too tired. It lasted 45 years so it did its job well. Listening to the Tandberg goodness now... Thanks again AK !
 
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