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Technics Dustcover Fix Redux

i'm in the middle of doing this fix on a third table, none have broken yet
i worry more about the actual drilling causing cracking. so start with a sharp bit and small pilot hole
i belive leaving the 2 "ribs" intact helps keep it strong enough
 
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orsen said:
i'm in the middle of doing this fix on a third table, none have broken yet
i worry more about the actual drilling causing cracking. so start with a sharp bit and small pilot hole
i belive leaving the 2 "ribs" intact helps keep it strong enough
Click to expand...

When I did the first dustcover I drilled the holes first, thinking that, if the dustcover cracked, then I hadn't wasted a lot of time polishing and making the new parts. It turned out not to be an issue.

The ribs do add strength and, in addition, "capture" the nut so that it won't spin as toy tighten the screw.

John
 
I did this fix and it works ace. I would never have had the idea to start with but this inspired me to try a copy. Our DIY store only had ally angle that was 16th inch think, so I used that and made the hinge pieces. (it's easily strong enough) When I fitted the lid I could see that it was'nt quite closing fully because the hinge was binding on the deck. Now here comes the fortunate part..because the angle was only 16th thick, it was a sloppy fit in the hinge socket on the deck, so I made a shim that fits neatly into the socket in front of the new ally tongue. Thus creating a stepped tongue up to 18th think material and this made the tongue a snug fit in the slot. This step also raises the rear of the lid a 16th to stop it binding and close fully. Now that was just lucky!
Now if your really fussy (and I am) With any fix like this the rear of the lid will sit slightly high, by the thickness of the hinge. So I used a new 1 inch flat file to file a notch in the edge of the lid for the new angle piece to sit into. The angle piece then fits flush with the bottom edge of the lid and when it's closed the lid sits snug down to the deck all round.
Due to the after thought of filing a notch in the lid, the holes I had drilled initially did not then line up. I could have made new angle pieces but instead I turned them around and used the angle web with the holes in as the tongue, then I DSC_0590.JPG DSC_0592.JPG drilled new holes. Just so if I add some pics you will understand why the tongue has a hole in it! I guess I'm not that fussy after all.
 
Thanks OP for the dimensions and instructions. I've just come into a SL D3 with the same problem--both plastic tabs are broken, and will need to be replaced.

However, the hinges also seem to be stuck in a permanently open position. I can force them forward to where they would be when the dust cover is closed, but it takes way more force than the weight of the dust cover would provide. I assume there is a spring mechanism within the hinge that's causing this? Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Seems like a waste of time to fix the dust cover if it won't close.

Thanks for any help.
 
No leverage when you press directly on the hinge. I'm sure they're fine.

John
 
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I must admit, the Mk1 version is more 'traditional' and looks nicer IMO, like myriad other turntable hinge mount brackets, but I appreciate the work involved is significantly greater.

Well done and thanks for sharing a simple solution. :)
 
Thanks to John, the Technics I've rebuilt for my dad now has a functional dustcover. :)

I was initial hesitant about this new simplified design, but with countersunk machine screws instead of bolts and some finish work on the aluminum I think it looks sharp.

I cut the reliefs to let it sit flush by hand with a big bastard file. I checked the clearance by putting the dust cover down and sliding a piece of paper between the metal and the top of the table. I kept removing material until the paper slid in and out freely. No sense damaging the plinth!

I didn't want them to look like angle aluminum from the Homeless Despot, so I sanded every surface that's exposed when they're in use. 150-320 to take off the extrusion marks, then some finer wet sanding to get a bit of a tumbled-esque look.

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Now I just need to polish the cover itself!

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Cheers!
Nathan
 
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That's fantastic work, Nathan. It's great to see people take an idea (even my idea :)) and improve on it. Congratulations.

John
 
I also just repaired my sl-qd3 dustcover with this simpler version and it worked out great. I found that you can easily remove the broken DC tongue and between the two ribs by hand by using a metal file. I also recommend when drilling the DC holes by making a smaller pilot hole first, then using a larger bit, until you get the hole large enough for the screw. Use the drill on a slower speed, not high speed, and don't press the bit too hard into the DC, let the bit do the work. Also put a piece of scrap wood flat against the DC when drilling to avoid cracking when the bit comes through.

If you can't locate 90 degree angle material, you can get straight aluminum and bend it to 90degrees if you have a metal vise. You put the material in the vise, and bend it over by tapping it with hammer. THen you can use the metal file on the bend to make a very sharp 90 corner inside bend. You can remove the hammer marks after with either sandpaper or a bench grinder that has the steelbrush wheel. Then cut to the size needed.
 
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armand02865 said:
I also just repaired my sl-qd3 dustcover with this simpler version and it worked out great. I found that you can easily remove the broken DC tongue and between the two ribs by hand by using a metal file. I also recommend when drilling the DC holes by making a smaller pilot hole first, then using a larger bit, until you get the hole large enough for the screw. Use the drill on a slower speed, not high speed, and don't press the bit too hard into the DC, let the bit do the work. Also put a piece of scrap wood flat against the DC when drilling to avoid cracking when the bit comes through.

If you can't locate 90 degree angle material, you can get straight aluminum and bend it to 90degrees if you have a metal vise. You put the material in the vise, and bend it over by tapping it with hammer. THen you can use the metal file on the bend to make a sharp 90 corner bend. You can remove the hammer marks after with either sandpaper or a bench grinder that has the steelbrush wheel. Then cut the size needed.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:
 
Wow, I cant wait to try this. Looking to fix an MCS 6603 I've had without a dust cover for the last 6 years.

Any idea what the technical term for these aluminum angles is?
My instinct is to call it "angle iron" but how did you all find it with those handy metal bridge pieces?

- alex
 
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