Technics SL-1900 not lifting.

[12ax7]

I'm not sure if I have any WD40 in the house right now. Which one of these from Tower would I use if I were to go with the silicone? Thanks.

There seems to be some confusion between silicone grease and silicone oil. The grease will remain slippery regardless of it's weight (caliper grease, plumbers grease). Silicone oil will get progressively "stickier" the higher its weight number. That's how it slows or "damps" the descent of the cue rod. You don't want any contaminants such as penetrating oil, motor oil, sewing machine oil or grease on the cue rod, clean it well with alcohol before applying silicone oil.

As far as WD40... yes, it will free up and lubricate the cam... for a while. If you've gone to the trouble to get to the bottom of the tonearm, why not take the extra step to remove and clean the cam and then use a proper grease to lubricate it. It will operate more smoothly and last longer. A "sticky" silicone oil is not the proper lubricant for the cam.

OK, time for my third cup of non-decaf.

 

[Puddintane]

There seems to be some confusion between silicone grease and silicone oil. The grease will remain slippery regardless of it's weight (caliper grease, plumbers grease). Silicone oil will get progressively "stickier" the higher its weight number. That's how it slows or "damps" the descent of the cue rod. You don't want any contaminants such as penetrating oil, motor oil, sewing machine oil or grease on the cue rod, clean it well with alcohol before applying silicone oil.

As far as WD40... yes, it will free up and lubricate the cam... for a while. If you've gone to the trouble to get to the bottom of the tonearm, why not take the extra step to remove and clean the cam and then use a proper grease to lubricate it. It will operate more smoothly and last longer. A "sticky" silicone oil is not the proper lubricant for the cam.

I was thinking it was in this thread, but I must have seen it in another one that I was also reading last night where someone was making a distinction (on this same subject) between regular silicone oil and the differential oils, and that the latter was what was to be used. That's how I was directed to Tower and why at their site I selected the category of differential oils. Going back now and looking at your earlier post above, you used both grease and oil (albeit on different parts), right?

 

[Oerets]

I haven't had mine opened up yet. But just for clarification's sake, are you talking about the black plastic cams identified in the pic above? Thanks.

On my cams I used white lithium grease. After cleaning with alcohol. The 300K silicone is for the shaft of the lift arm.



Barney

 

[12ax7]

On my cams I used white lithium grease. After cleaning with alcohol. The 300K silicone is for the shaft of the lift arm.

That's correct.

Puddintane: The differential lubricants from the hobby stores are silicone oil ie. 300K & 500K. This is what you want for the cueing rod. Hobby stores became popular places to buy from because it's difficult to source elsewhere. It's used in the axles of large scale radio controlled vehicles. Turntable manufacturers won't sell you the stuff. When you get it you will see what I mean about it being "sticky". Put a toothpick half way into the oil and what comes out on it will be more than enough to coat your cueing rod and it's cylinder. What you do with the remaining 39.999 CCs is up to you (theres got to be a way to share this stuff?).

 

[Puddintane]

Get you a box and a towel, remove the platter and top off the table. Forgot lock down the arm good. Flip it over into the box covered with a towel. Remove the screws remembering where they came from .

All eighteen of them? Sheesh, this thing has a lot of screws on the bottom cover. Oh yeah, the platter has a label that says to not remove it "unnecessarily" as it's part of the motor assembly or something. Does it just pop off? It seems pretty solidly fixed.

 

[Hifirob2]

Just hook your thumbs in the holes on the platter, and give it a good lift upwards. I always put a small priority mail box over the spindle, and carefully flip the table over, and lay it on a pillow - making sure the tonearm has clearance.

 

[Oerets]

All eighteen of them? Sheesh, this thing has a lot of screws on the bottom cover. Oh yeah, the platter has a label that says to not remove it "unnecessarily" as it's part of the motor assembly or something. Does it just pop off? It seems pretty solidly fixed.

If it is stubborn you can give it gently a tap with a rubber hammer or a block of wood. I laid the screw out on the table in the pattern of installed. Really all the long ones go into the middle portion IIRC. The rubber stopper on the top better place that somewhere special alone with the three screws from the arm.

Also be very careful when flipping the arm over taking car with the wires going out to the RCA cables. You did remove the cart? Also I always wrap a trash tie around the arm. But you will need to move the arm to get it out of the plastic top cover. I can't remember for sure if the white plastic arm on the lift cam need to be reset after the lube to time everything again. Sorry.


Barney

 

[Puddintane]

If it is stubborn you can give it gently a tap with a rubber hammer or a block of wood. I laid the screw out on the table in the pattern of installed. Really all the long ones go into the middle portion IIRC. The rubber stopper on the top better place that somewhere special alone with the three screws from the arm.

Also be very careful when flipping the arm over taking car with the wires going out to the RCA cables. You did remove the cart? Also I always wrap a trash tie around the arm. But you will need to move the arm to get it out of the plastic top cover. I can't remember for sure if the white plastic arm on the lift cam need to be reset after the lube to time everything again. Sorry.


Barney

I gave it a little firmer tug and the platter came off okay. There are two rubber-stopper-covered screwholes around the arm (plus the center of the lifter has what looks like a slotted, hexagonal-shaped screw/nut). Do those come out before I remove the bottom? Or do I need to open the bottom first, then deal with those screws (that I assume hold the arm to the top)? I've never removed a tonearm before. So I'd prefer to not screw it up!

Hifirob2--

Do you mean that you use a box that's smaller than the actual tt so that the platter side sits atop the box while the arm side hangs free, as it's extended beyond the edge of the box? Just trying to picture what you're all describing.

Thanks.

 

[Hifirob2]

Hifirob2--

Do you mean that you use a box that's smaller than the actual tt so that the platter side sits atop the box while the arm side hangs free, as it's extended beyond the edge of the box? Just trying to picture what you're all describing.

Thanks.

Yep, the smallest priority mail sized box. I poke a hole in the center of it for the spindle, and then there is a good bit of space between the boxes edge and the tonearm.

 

[Oerets]

The three screws that hole the arm down are last to be removed. Mine only had one stopper that needed to be removed from the top, it was to the top right. Going from memory now but there might be two under the table (black) that hold the arm assembly down and one on the top. Sorry for the confusion.

Should of taken pictures and noted it more but didn't, thought I'd remember.


Barney

 

[Puddintane]

Okay, I'm feeling like a total bonehead here, but I'm not exactly sure the contortions I need to perform to get where I'm supposed to go. I removed the bottom cover and am looking at the entire mechanism inside. Am I now to somehow remove the tonearm screws (from the top, which is now upside down) in order to free it from the internal mechanism so that I can flip just the entire mechanism over to get at the cams and whatnot (while the tonearm remains connected via only the wires)? Is that the plan? Do I just let the tonearm rest on the table (or something else to support it a bit closer to the plinth) while I flip the mechanism? Thanks for your patience.

 

[Oerets]

From memory there are two black screws holding the bottom of the arm assembly.

If all the screws are removed from the bottom plate/top cover, then flip over and work the plastic cover off. You will need to move the arm over to the opening in the plastic. Once this is done then you will remove the two screws from under the arm. Then the one on the top side under the plug. Carefully move the arm over and pull the strain relief out. Be very careful remember the wires are fragile.



Barney

 

[Puddintane]

From memory there are two black screws holding the bottom of the arm assembly.

If all the screws are removed from the bottom plate/top cover, then flip over and work the plastic cover off. You will need to move the arm over to the opening in the plastic. Once this is done then you will remove the two screws from under the arm. Then the one on the top side under the plug. Carefully move the arm over and pull the strain relief out. Be very careful remember the wires are fragile.

Barney

So I just reread some of the above, and I'm thinking now I should have just removed the screws from the bottom and then turned it back over (without needing to remove the cover), and pulled the top off after unscrewing the arm, thereby working mainly from the top. Is that right? I'm all upside down here! :stupid:

 

[Oerets]

I removed the top plastic cover when I did it. But if you got to the cam then 6 of one.



Barney

 

[Puddintane]

This all explains why when we were kids my brother was the one inside building a Heathkit television set or something while I was the one outside playing football, baseball, or anything non-mechanical!!! But I see it now. Do I have to remove that spring on the lift shaft as well as the screw that holds the cam in place, and then remove them to clean them thoroughly? I can feel how that cam rotates pretty sluggishly.

 

[Oerets]

Loosen the phillips and pop the spring off leave the other alone if it was OK, or you don't have the proper fluid to apply. I keep getting bumped off line so going to bed now.


Barney

 

[jleon92f]

That's correct.

Puddintane: The differential lubricants from the hobby stores are silicone oil ie. 300K & 500K. This is what you want for the cueing rod. Hobby stores became popular places to buy from because it's difficult to source elsewhere. It's used in the axles of large scale radio controlled vehicles. Turntable manufacturers won't sell you the stuff. When you get it you will see what I mean about it being "sticky". Put a toothpick half way into the oil and what comes out on it will be more than enough to coat your cueing rod and it's cylinder. What you do with the remaining 39.999 CCs is up to you (theres got to be a way to share this stuff?).

I wonder if anyone has tried Honey?..LOL.

 

[12ax7]

I wonder if anyone has tried Honey?..LOL.

Bee serious. That will increase ow & flutter.

 

[jleon92f]

Bee serious. That will increase ow & flutter.

:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::thmbsp:

 

[Puddintane]

Okay, I took it apart, and removed the cam. And yes, it was a sticky green mess in there where it rotates on that brass bushing. Will alcohol clean that junk off adequately? And what are my options for grease? There is a hobby shop in town. Is there something I should look for there? Or is there an alternative available at Ace or Home Depot or some place similar?

And what should I do about the lift shaft? I'm not sure how it should feel to determine if it needs maintenance. If I were to use some of the silicone oil on it, how do I apply it? Just drop a little of the oil in or around the top of the shaft where it travels up and down (or in and out of) the outer sleeve?

And as was mentioned above, is there any product that will do double duty, so I don't have to buy yet another bottle of some specialized oil, grease, clearner, etc. that I use only once and then put on the shelf forever?