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Technics SL-M2

This is the best series of turntables that Technics ever produced. From what I've seen on the internet, some had the straight arm with the p-mount cartridge, and some had the s- arm with the standard headshell. I would love to have an opportunity to own one of these.

This was Technics at their finest.
 
The M series is on my purchase list for sure, but they are rare, especially in mint shape. I was looking to buy one in 1990, but opted for a 1200MK2 due to the standard mount head shell. As others have said, the specs are phenomenal and you can get a very nice p mount cartridge with Jico SAS stylus.

The S shape arm was Japan only IIRC, wish it was more widely available in NA market.
 
Track down the P mount cartridges that were intended for the SL-M2, the Technics EPC-310MC or EPC-P205CMkIII (MM). With either of these Technics P mount cartridges you will make a significant jump to what the SL-M2 is really capable of, running with the big dogs.
 
My advise is to upgrade to a Technics 310MC cartridge, and then you'll need a new preamp to go with the LOMC cartridge. It is what I did with my SL-M3, and it has worked out well.
 
By the way: I am sure the TS was aware of the quality of his turntable and was just looking for some flattery. Pics and name are pretty familiar, right?

http://www.sonyalphalab.com/forums/content.php?1028-Technics-SL-M2-Turntable

:)


Yes, that is me...
I've been a member of Jay's website since near the beginning...plus, a number of other "photography" forum/sites too.
I've also created a thread on AVS Forums http://www.avsforum.com/forum/173-2-channel-audio/1860530-technics-sl-m2-turntable.html#post31114026 looking for information...it was from there, I ended up here.

Just because I post my photos on another website, doesn't mean I wasn't actually looking for help/information.
You can "GOOGLE" search for "Technics SL-M2" and find hardly any information except here on AK...believe me, I've searched.

Afaik, the SL-M2 is considered one of the better p-mount TT that Technics has produced.
What concerns me is...how does it compare to the TT that are produced today?
Vintage vs. Modern, so to speak. Would it be wise to "upgrade" to a newer model?
 
Track down the P mount cartridges that were intended for the SL-M2, the Technics EPC-310MC or EPC-P205CMkIII (MM). With either of these Technics P mount cartridges you will make a significant jump to what the SL-M2 is really capable of, running with the big dogs.

My advise is to upgrade to a Technics 310MC cartridge, and then you'll need a new preamp to go with the LOMC cartridge. It is what I did with my SL-M3, and it has worked out well.

Thanks to both of you for the helpful suggestions...seems that either one of these cartridges will be some sort of treasure hunt.


Any idea on the comparison of the JICO SAS stylus replacement be to either one of these?
Just weighing out all my options.
 
The 310MC shouldn't be too hard to find used; it was the stock cartridge sold with the Technics SL-10 turntable. Just make certain that the cantilever is intact, and budget for a retip. Same thing goes for a used EPC-P205CMkIII; it may be a moving magnet cartridge with a removable stylus, but the replacements are very rare so you'll need to retip the stylus on it too.

I've got a collection of over 50 p-mount cartridges, and the 310MC is a clear step above all of the others. That includes a Technics P23 with a JICO SAS stylus, a Shure V15LT (the Era 4 p-mount V15), several high-output moving coil cartridges including Ortofon and Sony, but not a Shure with a SAS.

I also have a SL-MA1 turntable in my office at work; I currently have a HOMC Dynavector DV-10P on it (definitely a treasure hunt cartridge) but tend to swap around other cartridges on it. The 310MC will stay on my SL-M3 at home until it needs to be retipped.
 
My guess if you want to better the SL-M2 with either of the top two Technics P mount cartridges, EPC-310MC or EPC-P205CMkIII, you better be prepared to spend up to $5,000 for a new/modern turntable and cartridge. The JICO 205C replacement stylus IMO doesn't compare with the original Technics stylus, I tried one and wasn't satisfied with the sound quality, a retip is a much better option if needed.
 
I am not familiar with the VPI Traveler. Looking at the specifications for both the VPI and the SL-M2, I do not understand why the VPI would be an upgrade at all and why it should sound better. Being educated in the electrical engineering field, I am having a difficult time rationalizing that claim. What is it about the VPI that makes it sound so much better. Based on the specifications, they should have very similar performance. Am I missing something? And no, I'm not trying to stir anything up or start a debate. I really want to know what the factors are that would make one draw the conclusion that the VPI Traveler is an upgrade to the Technics SL-M2.

I am basing my opinion on 20 years of listening to many different types of components.

However, let me answer your question specifically. In order to pull the maximum amount of information off of a vinyl record, you need to be able to capture very small movements. The closer you are to reacting to a single molecule of vinyl on the record, the better.

Once you get the basics right, and the turntable is rotating at the right speed and the cartridge is correctly aligned in the groove, the main thing that stops you from doing this is the sensitivity of the cartridge, and vibrations in the platter and tonearm. A $5000 moving-coil cartridge with a few rotations of gold coil will be much more sensitive to the smallest movements of the cantilever than a mass-market moving magnet. It will also put out a tiny signal that is very difficult to use. Any vibration in the tonearm or platter will mask the tiny movements of the cantilever that it is able to convert into an electrical signal.

So if you went and put a Shelter Harmony or a Koetsu Rosewood on your Technics SL-M2, you would not get the sound you paid for. Vibrations in the platter and arm would prevent the cartridge from properly responding to the smallest wiggles in the groove.

The key to a high-end turntable is high-quality bearings and very precise machining, as well as proper isolation of the platter and armboard from the motor. Many high-end manufacturers also use massive platters, which of course requires even more expensive bearings. The tonearm in these turntables is more precisely machined, is better damped, and has more adjustments to properly align the cartridge in the groove.

Naturally, all this costs money. Turntable makers like VPI, Basis, and ClearAudio typically spend 15-20% of the list price of each turntable on the component parts delivered to their factories.

When I was at the VPI factory last year, I got to hear a demo of the 3-D printed arm on a prototype of the VPI direct-drive turntable, which is now in production. Because VPI arm wands are quickly interchangeable, we were able to hear five minutes of a record with a convention steel VPI JMW arm wand, and then switch in less than a minute to the 3-D arm and hear the same five minutes of the record again. Cartridges were identical stock Grado Golds. Even with such a cheap cartridge, the 3-D arm was obviously and audibly superior. This simple demo showed the significance of materials quality in turntables and arms.

Correction: It was in 2013 my audio club was at VPI in Clifton, so make that two years ago.
 
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sticky cue button on my SL M2

turntable works fine otherwise. I just have to tap the botton a few times for it to catch. Any suggestions on how I can clean it up?

Sorry to sidetrack the thread, but we are on the beloved SL M series subject and there doesn't seem to be many of us around.

Thanks
Ren
 
I have/had one just like that and let my sister have it when I got an SL1200. I've since added a Scout and a Project Perspex, but if I had it to do over I wold have passed on the upgrades and just kept the SL-M2 and gotten one of the much better P-mount carts that are available now. Not saying the other decks are not better, just that in my little office system, the M2 was fine and besides it's one of the best looking decks around.
 
I just bought the one! It looks very good, but has a counterweight problem.


Maybe the oil has leaked out? But why? Can there be damage inside? For some reason, the limit ring is not centered ... How can I disassemble it? What kind of oil should be filled?
 
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