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Technics SL1200MKII Tonearm Damping and Rewire

Great work. I do use KAB USA's turret board mount to bypass the circuit board, however. I use it in a slightly different way than Kevin envisioned- it holds the wires nicely in place and bypasses the circuit board traces with shorter paths.

But that just means my method is a bit different. Both should work well.

I also coat the exposed wire ends with some "liquid tape" to insulate them.

I add a bit of cotton batting to the inner arm tube as well. Another personal preference.

Great tutorial.
I loosely filled that cotton sleeve inside tonearm tube.

I am looking for tag board pins which we used in school days for making learning diagram. But seems unavailable now. These could make better joint IMO. I will post update once done. Then I plan to remove that PCB.
 
Hi,

Please tell us where you got your bearing unlocking tool.

Those bearing can take a long long time to readjust !

Adjust at the edge of bearing play and no play ...

And the lock makes them tighter

Repeat till you go nuts !
 
Hi,

Please tell us where you got your bearing unlocking tool.

Those bearing can take a long long time to readjust !

Adjust at the edge of bearing play and no play ...

And the lock makes them tighter

Repeat till you go nuts !
Initially my TT tonearm has good and well aligned bearings. So I took some epoxy hard glue on tip of wooden toothpick and quicky applied to area where inner screw and locking ring meet. That fixed position of locking ring wrt inner screw. Then I marked current position of locking ring and opened it with help of tweezers. That's it. It came out along with central screw. It wasn't that tight enough and I put it in same place just at place where play diminishes. Also listening helped to find it its not too tight.
 
I never touched my bearings. I did remove the arm tube to make it a bit easier to shrink wrap and stuff.

You are correct! Actually I realized this at the time of fitting it back and getting it right. It was royal pain.

That is why I am telling to avoid removal of bearing screw for rewiring. Its not required. Tonearm tube can be removed with those tiny screws at the bottom. No need to remove bearing IMO.
 
You are correct! Actually I realized this at the time of fitting it back and getting it right. It was royal pain.

That is why I am telling to avoid removal of bearing screw for rewiring. Its not required. Tonearm tube can be removed with those tiny screws at the bottom. No need to remove bearing IMO.

Good advice. No need to undo the bearings. Most of the Technics, anyhow, seem to have a dab of a Lock-tite type material on them anyhow. They are precision set at factory, and while I'm not saying it's impossible to re-adjust, there's typically no ned to (unlike many Jelco and Sumiko I work on).
 
Did the rewire and tonearm dampening, but I didn't remove the arm from the gimble. It took a while, but I completed the process in about 2 1/2 hours. Now, unfortunately, I have a noticable difference in L/R balance. I think I've traced it back to an azimuth problem. I checked the level of the armtube and the headshell with a level, and sure enough, both are off. I've been twisting it back to get it somewhat level again, and althought the sound is getting better, the left channel is still noticeably louder. I'll see if I have any mono tracks that I can use for more tweeking today. If I were to do this again, I think I'd leave the tube in place. Any advice would be welcome.
 
Use empty headshell loosely fitted to headshell connector. I put everything upside down rested on glass table to level tube, headshell and tube portion where arm connects to support. Then tighten the screw to fix headshell connector.
 
I found that I had the right RCA lead wired backwards, so I was hearing the right channel out of phase. Once corrected, the results are quite impressive. Wider soundstage and improved bass response. Very musical!
 
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