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The difference between hoarding and collecting is nice shelves.

FireGuruMN

Active Member
Here are a couple of pictures of some of my collection.
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Yes, yes, I know what all or you are asking "How did he build those nice shelves"?:rflmao:
Well let me tell you. . .
Figure out what size shelves you need to hold your equipment and what space you have in your house (garage, trailer, cave). This set of shelves is basically acting as a room divider. It is built in four sections with the back to back ones being exactly a mirror image so you can have equipment pushing through from one shelf to the next. That allowed the SA1000 (22 inches deep) to fit in the shelf and not need to waste space for all the more shallow equipment. I could even put some shallow equipment (tube amps) on the back side of the monster receivers. It ends up being a production fitting deep and shallow things at the end but it all works out. I built a previous set that was against a wall and those I made 18" deep which worked for almost all my equipment.

Each section is 15.5" deep which allowed me to cut three strips from one sheet of plywood with some scrap to cut off the chewed up edges from the lumber yard. If I built two shelfs 31" deep I never would have gotten them in the basement much less been able to lift them or stand them up with the low ceilings. As it is they had to go through the patio door sideways and rotate and stand up in the tall area in the middle of the room then slide sideways into the soffit area. What a production. On Christmas day even. Its good to have guests with strong backs.

How to pick plywood. It depends on what your goal is. If this is going in a garage (that would be sad) then who cares. But assuming they are going in the house you need something with veneer ON BOTH SIDES. Often this means "Baltic birch" plywood. To most people that means $140 a sheet special order time. The $140 plywood usually has 15 or so layers and there are very few voids. Fortunately I found some $85 plywood at Home Depot that was veneer on both sides but only 5 or so layers. That was good enough for me. I bought 22 sheets. Later I found our I needed 5 more because I forgot to double the shelf count. But regardless, draw a plan and layout a cutting sheet so you can figure out how many sheets you need. A warning about $50 A/C plywood. It warps. You might need extra fixed shelves to keep it in line. Really, just don't go there.
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You also need some trim boards for the top, bottom, verticals and possibly the faces of the shelves. And some 2x4's for the base.

While you are there pick up a short piece of melamine shelf board with predrilled holes. I used that as a template to keep my holes aligned. There are 1000 other ways to do that. Live your life.
When getting shelf pins, get the "L" shaped ones, not the simple pins. The pins can drift out if your holes are loose. These are held in by the shelf and they have a hold so you can screw your shelf in place.
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Screws: 1-1/2" countersink with the T10 driver. Or what ever makes you happy.
Glue. Tight Bond 2 or 3. Or what ever makes you happy. And one of those awesome "glue bot" glue bottles. They make a great xmas present.
Continued. . .
 
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Here is the back side of one shelf mostly finished. I put in the lateral support braces just to give the shelf a little stability. DO NOT DEPEND ON THESE TO HOLD A FREE STANDING SHELF. My shelfs were screwed into the ceiling and the others I build are screwed into a wall. These braces are just enough to allow you to transport with out breaking the joints apart. You could put a temporary brace but some future idiot would try to move them and that would end badly. This does limit the depth on some shelfs so maybe not all 6 are required. Whatever. "I have spoken".
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Things I would do differently: I "toe screwed" the lateral supports in from the back on the first shelf. Those screws should go from the inside so you are biting into more of the wood.
After I was all done, I considered the possibility of finishing all of the plywood BEFORE building the shelfs. That is still a toss up for me. If you go down that road you have to consider that the glue will not bond to the stain and polyurethane as well as the bare plywood. Maybe you depend more on screws then. Pre-finishing would certainly be simpler without all the corners. But you have to worry about scratching the finish all during the construction. blah blah blah.

Glue all your joints. Be very careful about squeeze out and drips. Anywhere the glue touches will not absorb stain the same way as bare wood. You can wipe the glue off with lots of water on a towel and that helps. Just wiping with a dry towel does not end well.

Notice how the boards are joined. It minimizes the exposed end grain on the sides.

The 2x4's are necessary to support the sides and the two center shelfs. There will be hundreds of pounds on those two center dividers and they have to get that weight to the floor. You could put the plywood directly on the ground but if you have carpet it works better to do it this way. You could use 2x2's I suppose. Whatever.

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I spend several hours cutting 15.5" boards. It is wise to make sure you don't push your saw fence while you process through the big heavy sheets of plywood. Check your work because 1/8" will be frustrating when you start assembling. If you find any "cool" grain, set it aside for end pieces.
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Make VERY sure all your interior joints are square. I cut a "perfectly" square scrap to place on the ground and but the boards against before screwing. It can be held in place with clamps and if you think it through you can clamp your board to the scrap to hold it all together until you screw it. Sorry, no picture of that. Make sure your garage floor is level and you don't have junk building up to throw off your work. I cut a scrap the height of the center shelf so I could measure and square at the same time.

Oh, and about the center fixed shelf. Depending on your height you may not need one. Anything over 4 feet and you need one. Otherwise your plywood will bow out and once again your equipment will be sitting in a pile again. Some people might want more fixed shelfs. It might depend on the quality of plywood you bought. Live your live.

As I built these I made sure to line them up so I had correct mirror images.
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Not all the shelfs are the same width. One opening is 26" wide so it can hold the SA1000 with a little room to spare. Most of the others are 19" wide which if ALMOST the right size. But that is another fail. I did not figure in the width of face trim when picking 19" so I had to pull one of the face trim pieces off to get some equipment into the shelves. Then I put it back on with screws for future removal. It would be better to make it 20". And I would make another set of super wide shelves because I still have some monster receivers sitting in a pile. It's a good problem to have I guess.
 
Time for trim.
I bought pretty cheap pine boards for my trim this time. The stuff at Home Depot is usually pretty good if you pick through it. The "premium" wood at Home Depot is stupid expensive. A step up is the "select" wood at Menards. I would get that if I was doing things over. There were just too many knots in the boards I selected and that got worse once I started ripping them. Either way figure on getting a few extra boards because you will need them.

Start by ripping the thickest trim piece. The bottom. Then rip the center pieces. These should be about 1/4" wider than your plywood. Just enough to hold the shelfs on and hide the ugly gap between the shelf and the vertical. Then rip the outside vertical boards. These are 1/4" wider but only on one side. And decide what you want on the top. Then you need to decide what you are doing for the faces of the shelves. I chose to cut thin strips of wood and glue/nail them on. I figured that would look better than glue-on veneer. Live your life. Whatever little scraps you have left from the other boards can be used for the shelf trim. Remember to cut some extra for the fixed shelfs. And don't cut the shelves to length until after you have stained them. It is way easier to manage 8 foot boards that dozens of short shelfs covered in stain and poly. Voice of experience screaming at you here. Its easiest to sand the saw marks off the skinny shelf trim once it is glued and nailed to the plywood. Notice 2x4 and clamp to make this process more bearable.

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You will probably find that the trim is thicker than the plywood by enough just to be annoying. Plywood thickness is some stupid metric number that is slightly less than 3/4 inch that 1by stock is. So either just be annoyed by this or you can cut the strips down a hair (dangerous on a table saw). Or cut them down before making strips? Or sand them once they are attached. Put a pencil mark on the plywood and sand until the pencil mark goes away. Otherwise you will sand through your veneer.

You need to sand down the rough edges on all your trim where you ran the wood through the saw. Even if they look pretty now, they will look like crap once you stain them. Just a quick pass with a belt sander and 120 grit will be good enough. I made a jig from 2x4's to support the thinner boards and keep them from flying across the garage.
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Speaking of looking like crap, make sure you use "pre stain" if you are using pine. The oils in pine will cause it to absorb the stain unevenly. Maybe that is ok with these thin boards but I took the time to put it on. My favorite stain color is "golden mahogany" by Varathane. Whatever you choose, do a sample on your actual wood. The pre-stain will affect how the stain gets absorbed so you may need to leave it on longer. My plywood absorbed quickly so I was wiping it off as soon as I put it on so it would not get to dark. And it will get darker once the poly goes on. I put my stain on with a roller. (cringe). Whatever. The goal is to get it out of the bucket and onto the wood. Then wipe it off. Make sure you keep a fresh rag. You have to absorb the stain, not push it around the surface. RAGS/ROLLERS COVERED IN STAIN/POLY WILL HEAT UP AND CAN CATCH FIRE. Soak them in water and put then outside away from the house until spring. Told you so.
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I chose to finish all my trim before installing it on the cabinets. There are pros and cons to this. Probably some touchup where your saw chips the stain. And if you finish all 4 sides the glue will not hold the trim to the shelves as well. That worked out for me when I had to remove a couple of them!
Make sure you wear a respirator, gloves, headlamp once you start staining and sealing. And setup a fan blowing out of your garage. I'm living the winter dream hear in the north land so I cannot just open the garage door. And it kills me to blow warm air out the window but you have to do it to survive with this oil based stuff. And don't even dream of using the water based stuff. Its very disappointing in my experience.
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Because I don't bend like I used to, I actually flipped the shelfs over and finished the bottoms then flipped them again and did the tops. It saves a lot of kneeling on old knee joints. Just be careful of drips. Wipe them up as soon as you see them. And take time to constantly look for them. They will keep showing up as you work. As I said, I used mini rollers to put the stain on and then wiped it off right away to get the darkness that I wanted. I could complete one "cube" at a time. The 4" foam rollers work well and if you get the right ones, they have foam on the ends so you can get into the corners without needing a brush. Win! I wonder if you can spray stain? Hmmm. Let stain dry overnight before poly.

Continued. . .
 
I have built MANY wall shelves in my day...you use some of the same strategies! For mine I build boxes, join em and then frame the shared edge with something nice, like black walnut. I also use the top cleat for a nice place to drill into studs. But me? It's just books....
 
Even though you will think your shelfs are beautiful and you will want to be done after the stain is on. You gotta poly them. Just go get that nice feel of a finished product. And to keep the stain from rubbing off onto everything for the next 10 years. Some people will sand after staining. Personally I head right into poly. Choose your desired finish. Gloss, semi-gloss, satin, flat. I went with satin. Maybe do some samples. It does make a big difference in the finished product. Now experienced people will really cringe: I used the same 4" roller to put on the poly. This is a big no-no. It leaves all sorts of air bubbles in the finish and as much as everyone says they will pop as it dries, they are lying. But once I got the poly out of the bucket and on the wood, I ran over it all with a 3" foam brush to pop all the bubbles. You can also use a bristle brush but I' all about disposable when it comes to painting.
Bubbles (bad):
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Foam brush makes bad into good. Yes, you can use a foam brush to put on all the poly but it just takes for ever and ever.
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And why can't they make foam brushes that the handles don't break off after the first swipe? Or why am I too cheap to buy the good ones? It's not like I don't have money to spend on nice things. . .
Let that dry overnight or longer. Depends on humidity. My garage is drier that a popcorn fart in a Nebraska dust storm. So, once again, after you have done one coat of poly and let it dry you will think DONE! Nope. It may look pretty but if you run your hand across the surface it will feel rough. Maybe if you sanded earlier this would not feel rough? I don't know, I never tried. Regardless break out a small random orbit sander and some 180 grit paper and QUICKLY and LIGHTLY go over all the surfaces. Do not pause anywhere. Zoom Zoom Zoom.
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This will leave a fine white dust over everything. You can wipe this off with a cloth, or blow it off, or just leave it. It never bothered me once the next coat went on. And it makes it easy to tell where you have done the second coat.

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Let all that dry and take a break. You will need it.
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I case you missed it, I have not put the face trim on yet. It is far easier to so the staining and poly with out the trim on.
So once everything is dry you can cut the trim and nail it on. I use 2" brads from an air nailer. I guess there are nice electric nailers now too. I should probably get one of those. Maybe xmas next year. I did glue the trim on but since I poly'd it already the glue is probably not doing too much. I don't have a pictures of putting the trim on because I needed to get the shelves done so my wife could get back on the garage and we could move them to the basement when strong people were over for Xmas. If you have the luxury of waiting, it is good to let the poly cure for a week or so. It still stinks until it gets fully cured. And if you put equipment on the shelves the feet might stick.

I just used simple butt joints because it was good enough. You might have to touch up some chips if you are rough with your sawing.

So now it is time to drill holes. I had 2880 holes for my 4 shelfs. It's really good physical therapy for shoulder surgery. I didn't mention it before but the shelf brackets come in 5mm or 1/4 inch. I went with 1/4 inch freedom units. That matched my existing shelfs. Get a metal depth stop to screw onto your drill bit. Don't depend on tape. You will get tired and the tape will not be enough to stop you.
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You can't see it but the blue tape is marked with "outside" and an arrow to indicate which side of the template should be toward the outside of the shelf. The holes ARE NOT in the center of the template. They are off by 1/2" or so. That is so the template can be flipped around for the center opening so the holes are not lined up with the other side of the plywood. The shelf clips are long enough that they will hit in the middle if you try to use the same hole from both sides. But you say "that won't happen". Believe be, it will and you never figure out why the pins don't go in all the way. And the blue tape is good to remind you which side of the template is "down". Some how we still managed to drill half a row wrong. I still don't understand. Drunk elves maybe. Once you drill the holes, blow them out with compressed air. There always seems to be shavings left in there.

Here is what they looked like before I cluttered them up with all my equipment. At this point I still have not screwed them together (front to back and side to side). And I also put two BIG screws into the ceiling which is what keeps them from tipping over.
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Put your heavy stuff on the fixed shelf. I used 4 screws per shelf and also glued. That's plenty strong for and 85 pound SA1000 which is my heaviest (so far).
I really cut it close with the shelf height. 1/2" to spare. I had to pull down a halogen puck light that was in the way.
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One more fail:
My daughter (the "tree hugger") immediately pointed out that my son and I (both mechanical engineers) never noticed that the shelf totally blocks my movie projector. I have not used the project in a while since several speakers are preventing the screen from rolling down. So hopefully I can move the project to the top of this shelf and it will still be able to fill the screen. If not, time for a new projector!
I've probably left out 1000 things. TTFN. Happy New Year.
 
Here are some beauty shots of the equipment. Obviously the goal is to display equipment and not have the shelfs be a distraction:
I plan on getting some better lighting some day. It's a bit cramped to takes some of these pictures for a variety of reasons (speakers, speakers, speakers).
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One whole stack of tube receivers and several mono amps and such spread around. Even church bell amps! And an AU-111. But its a lot to take in.

I spotted the Dyna amp and preamp equipment. The initial pictures reminded me of a fond memory I have of High Fidelity House, a stereo retailer in Wayne, PA from the 1970 and 80's. As a teenager, I would go in just to take in all the eye food. Back then, they would display all their wares in huge wood shelving units. Maybe that's where the phrase "wall to wall sound" came from..
 
What system is your daily driver? Or do you rotate gear all the time?
Can't be a collection without some Yamaha!
My home theater is driven by a Yamaha CX-A5000 and MX-A5000. I run them through a OSD ATM-7 switcher (2 sources in and 7 speakers out) to a group of speakers in the front of the room. Depending on what I am listening to, I pick different speakers. And rotate in speakers/sources as I see fit. I will be running a signal line and speaker line over to this shelf so I can hook up things that are too big to easily relocate. I also have Yamaha serving the garage where much of my listening happens. And of course one in my office. I can control all them with my phone and get music from a huge NAS on my network. I have a bunch of collectable Yamaha solid state stuff on my other shelves (MX1, CX1 C80,M80,T80). Maybe I will take some pics when I get those shelves filled back in again. I robbed some things to put sets together for these shelves. Some day I want to explore the history of Yamaha stereo equipment. I don't see much older items out in the world.

Sorry, brain cramp. I forgot about all the cool brushed aluminum/silver faced Yamaha products. I have CA810, CA2010, CT1010, CT7000 (with Japanese frequencies), CR1040 and CR2020. I absolutely love the look of that entire series with the little buttons and square selector knobs. Again, that's all on different shelfs and did not need to be moved for this production. This project was all about getting things out of piles. I almost have a dining room again. . .

My speakers-of-the-month are KEF 104's. I probably have better but those just sound good lately. JBL 4435's never rotate out. I will probably be buried in them. Polk 707's are my favorite modern speaker. But I don't have many modern speakers.
 
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A couple things I missed in the above narrative:
Make sure you stir all of your stain and also the poly. Maybe you can get the store to shake it but some of mine has been sitting in the garage a while. All of the pigment for the stain will settle out and STICK to the bottom of the can. You have to work to get it loose and mixed in the liquid. And the "goo" they used to make poly satin, semi-gloss, or flat also settles out. If you don't mix it up you end up with gloss. I usually pull out a cup or so and set it aside so I can put more power into the mixing without spilling over. A drill mounted mixer is best to break up the pigment chunks.
I used 2 gallons of stain and 2 gallons of poly for the 4 shelves that I built. That might help you get the right amount. It doesn't hurt to buy extra and make returns if you don't use it.
 
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