The difference between hoarding and collecting is nice shelves.
- Thread starter FireGuruMN
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- collection display hoarding shelves
That’s not the question that came to mind.
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Thanks for the amazing Photo dump~!
Am currently arguing with my friends, Trying to identify every piece.
Reminds me of the old TV show "Concentration". Very Satisfying...
Am currently arguing with my friends, Trying to identify every piece.
Reminds me of the old TV show "Concentration". Very Satisfying...
Blowed Fuse
ok ok ok….. It’s just a little pin prick
Looks like a Pink Floyd album cover
FireGuruMN
Active Member
OMG. You should win a prize for that one.
I plan on doing an inventory of this and other shelves. I have sadly added duplicates to my hoard since my CRS is getting worse. (lost a bid on a Phase Linear 700 II and just found I already have one that has not seen daylight in a couple years. And for insurance purposes you need to have an inventory and they really like receipts. Ha! Where did I put that Craigs List receipt now. . . I do make screen shots of most of the listings I purchase which helps. It will be interesting to see how much I paid over they years versus what they are going for now. I usually put a post it note on the side of each item as it comes in. Model, date, price, source, condition, manual, remote and such. Then I keep track of what parts/repairs I put into it. I hope the values have gone up but I know I have some black face modern stuff that I would have to pay someone to take away. Good luck figuring out some of that old tube stuff. I have some amplifiers without a manufacturer even.
Here are a couple of pictures of some of my collection.
View attachment 3386233View attachment 3386232
Yes, yes, I know what all or you are asking "How did he build those nice shelves"?
Well let me tell you. . .
Figure out what size shelves you need to hold your equipment and what space you have in your house (garage, trailer, cave). This set of shelves is basically acting as a room divider. It is built in four sections with the back to back ones being exactly a mirror image so you can have equipment pushing through from one shelf to the next. That allowed the SA1000 (22 inches deep) to fit in the shelf and not need to waste space for all the more shallow equipment. I could even put some shallow equipment (tube amps) on the back side of the monster receivers. It ends up being a production fitting deep and shallow things at the end but it all works out. I built a previous set that was against a wall and those I made 18" deep which worked for almost all my equipment.
Each section is 15.5" deep which allowed me to cut three strips from one sheet of plywood with some scrap to cut off the chewed up edges from the lumber yard. If I built two shelfs 31" deep I never would have gotten them in the basement much less been able to lift them or stand them up with the low ceilings. As it is they had to go through the patio door sideways and rotate and stand up in the tall area in the middle of the room then slide sideways into the soffit area. What a production. On Christmas day even. Its good to have guests with strong backs.
How to pick plywood. It depends on what your goal is. If this is going in a garage (that would be sad) then who cares. But assuming they are going in the house you need something with veneer ON BOTH SIDES. Often this means "Baltic birch" plywood. To most people that means $140 a sheet special order time. The $140 plywood usually has 15 or so layers and there are very few voids. Fortunately I found some $85 plywood at Home Depot that was veneer on both sides but only 5 or so layers. That was good enough for me. I bought 22 sheets. Later I found our I needed 5 more because I forgot to double the shelf count. But regardless, draw a plan and layout a cutting sheet so you can figure out how many sheets you need. A warning about $50 A/C plywood. It warps. You might need extra fixed shelves to keep it in line. Really, just don't go there.
View attachment 3386208View attachment 3386210View attachment 3386218
You also need some trim boards for the top, bottom, verticals and possibly the faces of the shelves. And some 2x4's for the base.
While you are there pick up a short piece of melamine shelf board with predrilled holes. I used that as a template to keep my holes aligned. There are 1000 other ways to do that. Live your life.
When getting shelf pins, get the "L" shaped ones, not the simple pins. The pins can drift out if your holes are loose. These are held in by the shelf and they have a hold so you can screw your shelf in place.
View attachment 3386227
Screws: 1-1/2" countersink with the T10 driver. Or what ever makes you happy.
Glue. Tight Bond 2 or 3. Or what ever makes you happy. And one of those awesome "glue bot" glue bottles. They make a great xmas present.
Continued. . .
Damn, brother. Save some gear for the rest of us!
FireGuruMN
Active Member
Anyone got any smart ideas/products for lighting these shelves? I was thinking of those lights for pictures but I don't know if they would cast far enough down the stacks.
Blowed Fuse
ok ok ok….. It’s just a little pin prick
Some type of light you could control. Colors and brightness. Something you could program to do cool stuff like lighting up one receiver for a few seconds then on to the next one. That would be a night light you could stare at for hours!
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I envy you all that don't live in earthquake country, waist high is as high i feel comfortable with in my So Cal.location.Here are a couple of pictures of some of my collection.
View attachment 3386233View attachment 3386232
Yes, yes, I know what all or you are asking "How did he build those nice shelves"?
Well let me tell you. . .
Figure out what size shelves you need to hold your equipment and what space you have in your house (garage, trailer, cave). This set of shelves is basically acting as a room divider. It is built in four sections with the back to back ones being exactly a mirror image so you can have equipment pushing through from one shelf to the next. That allowed the SA1000 (22 inches deep) to fit in the shelf and not need to waste space for all the more shallow equipment. I could even put some shallow equipment (tube amps) on the back side of the monster receivers. It ends up being a production fitting deep and shallow things at the end but it all works out. I built a previous set that was against a wall and those I made 18" deep which worked for almost all my equipment.
Each section is 15.5" deep which allowed me to cut three strips from one sheet of plywood with some scrap to cut off the chewed up edges from the lumber yard. If I built two shelfs 31" deep I never would have gotten them in the basement much less been able to lift them or stand them up with the low ceilings. As it is they had to go through the patio door sideways and rotate and stand up in the tall area in the middle of the room then slide sideways into the soffit area. What a production. On Christmas day even. Its good to have guests with strong backs.
How to pick plywood. It depends on what your goal is. If this is going in a garage (that would be sad) then who cares. But assuming they are going in the house you need something with veneer ON BOTH SIDES. Often this means "Baltic birch" plywood. To most people that means $140 a sheet special order time. The $140 plywood usually has 15 or so layers and there are very few voids. Fortunately I found some $85 plywood at Home Depot that was veneer on both sides but only 5 or so layers. That was good enough for me. I bought 22 sheets. Later I found our I needed 5 more because I forgot to double the shelf count. But regardless, draw a plan and layout a cutting sheet so you can figure out how many sheets you need. A warning about $50 A/C plywood. It warps. You might need extra fixed shelves to keep it in line. Really, just don't go there.
View attachment 3386208View attachment 3386210View attachment 3386218
You also need some trim boards for the top, bottom, verticals and possibly the faces of the shelves. And some 2x4's for the base.
While you are there pick up a short piece of melamine shelf board with predrilled holes. I used that as a template to keep my holes aligned. There are 1000 other ways to do that. Live your life.
When getting shelf pins, get the "L" shaped ones, not the simple pins. The pins can drift out if your holes are loose. These are held in by the shelf and they have a hold so you can screw your shelf in place.
View attachment 3386227
Screws: 1-1/2" countersink with the T10 driver. Or what ever makes you happy.
Glue. Tight Bond 2 or 3. Or what ever makes you happy. And one of those awesome "glue bot" glue bottles. They make a great xmas present.
Continued. . .
søren krabbe
Member
is it all connected - would like to se a photo of the cabling on the backsideHere are a couple of pictures of some of my collection.
View attachment 3386233View attachment 3386232
Yes, yes, I know what all or you are asking "How did he build those nice shelves"?
Well let me tell you. . .
Figure out what size shelves you need to hold your equipment and what space you have in your house (garage, trailer, cave). This set of shelves is basically acting as a room divider. It is built in four sections with the back to back ones being exactly a mirror image so you can have equipment pushing through from one shelf to the next. That allowed the SA1000 (22 inches deep) to fit in the shelf and not need to waste space for all the more shallow equipment. I could even put some shallow equipment (tube amps) on the back side of the monster receivers. It ends up being a production fitting deep and shallow things at the end but it all works out. I built a previous set that was against a wall and those I made 18" deep which worked for almost all my equipment.
Each section is 15.5" deep which allowed me to cut three strips from one sheet of plywood with some scrap to cut off the chewed up edges from the lumber yard. If I built two shelfs 31" deep I never would have gotten them in the basement much less been able to lift them or stand them up with the low ceilings. As it is they had to go through the patio door sideways and rotate and stand up in the tall area in the middle of the room then slide sideways into the soffit area. What a production. On Christmas day even. Its good to have guests with strong backs.
How to pick plywood. It depends on what your goal is. If this is going in a garage (that would be sad) then who cares. But assuming they are going in the house you need something with veneer ON BOTH SIDES. Often this means "Baltic birch" plywood. To most people that means $140 a sheet special order time. The $140 plywood usually has 15 or so layers and there are very few voids. Fortunately I found some $85 plywood at Home Depot that was veneer on both sides but only 5 or so layers. That was good enough for me. I bought 22 sheets. Later I found our I needed 5 more because I forgot to double the shelf count. But regardless, draw a plan and layout a cutting sheet so you can figure out how many sheets you need. A warning about $50 A/C plywood. It warps. You might need extra fixed shelves to keep it in line. Really, just don't go there.
View attachment 3386208View attachment 3386210View attachment 3386218
You also need some trim boards for the top, bottom, verticals and possibly the faces of the shelves. And some 2x4's for the base.
While you are there pick up a short piece of melamine shelf board with predrilled holes. I used that as a template to keep my holes aligned. There are 1000 other ways to do that. Live your life.
When getting shelf pins, get the "L" shaped ones, not the simple pins. The pins can drift out if your holes are loose. These are held in by the shelf and they have a hold so you can screw your shelf in place.
View attachment 3386227
Screws: 1-1/2" countersink with the T10 driver. Or what ever makes you happy.Is it all connect
Glue. Tight Bond 2 or 3. Or what ever makes you happy. And one of those awesome "glue bot" glue bottles. They make a great xmas present.
Continued. . .
Nice woodwork!
lightcapture
Super Member
Looks like a well done vintage stereo shop.Here are a couple of pictures of some of my collection.
View attachment 3386233View attachment 3386232
Yes, yes, I know what all or you are asking "How did he build those nice shelves"?
Well let me tell you. . .
Figure out what size shelves you need to hold your equipment and what space you have in your house (garage, trailer, cave). This set of shelves is basically acting as a room divider. It is built in four sections with the back to back ones being exactly a mirror image so you can have equipment pushing through from one shelf to the next. That allowed the SA1000 (22 inches deep) to fit in the shelf and not need to waste space for all the more shallow equipment. I could even put some shallow equipment (tube amps) on the back side of the monster receivers. It ends up being a production fitting deep and shallow things at the end but it all works out. I built a previous set that was against a wall and those I made 18" deep which worked for almost all my equipment.
Each section is 15.5" deep which allowed me to cut three strips from one sheet of plywood with some scrap to cut off the chewed up edges from the lumber yard. If I built two shelfs 31" deep I never would have gotten them in the basement much less been able to lift them or stand them up with the low ceilings. As it is they had to go through the patio door sideways and rotate and stand up in the tall area in the middle of the room then slide sideways into the soffit area. What a production. On Christmas day even. Its good to have guests with strong backs.
How to pick plywood. It depends on what your goal is. If this is going in a garage (that would be sad) then who cares. But assuming they are going in the house you need something with veneer ON BOTH SIDES. Often this means "Baltic birch" plywood. To most people that means $140 a sheet special order time. The $140 plywood usually has 15 or so layers and there are very few voids. Fortunately I found some $85 plywood at Home Depot that was veneer on both sides but only 5 or so layers. That was good enough for me. I bought 22 sheets. Later I found our I needed 5 more because I forgot to double the shelf count. But regardless, draw a plan and layout a cutting sheet so you can figure out how many sheets you need. A warning about $50 A/C plywood. It warps. You might need extra fixed shelves to keep it in line. Really, just don't go there.
View attachment 3386208View attachment 3386210View attachment 3386218
You also need some trim boards for the top, bottom, verticals and possibly the faces of the shelves. And some 2x4's for the base.
While you are there pick up a short piece of melamine shelf board with predrilled holes. I used that as a template to keep my holes aligned. There are 1000 other ways to do that. Live your life.
When getting shelf pins, get the "L" shaped ones, not the simple pins. The pins can drift out if your holes are loose. These are held in by the shelf and they have a hold so you can screw your shelf in place.
View attachment 3386227
Screws: 1-1/2" countersink with the T10 driver. Or what ever makes you happy.
Glue. Tight Bond 2 or 3. Or what ever makes you happy. And one of those awesome "glue bot" glue bottles. They make a great xmas present.
Continued. . .
Wonderful job! And, having built many running feet of custom shelving, believe me, I know. But—looking at all of that stereo equipment—my first question is: When did your wife leave you?Here are a couple of pictures of some of my collection.
View attachment 3386233View attachment 3386232
Yes, yes, I know what all or you are asking "How did he build those nice shelves"?
Well let me tell you. . .
Figure out what size shelves you need to hold your equipment and what space you have in your house (garage, trailer, cave). This set of shelves is basically acting as a room divider. It is built in four sections with the back to back ones being exactly a mirror image so you can have equipment pushing through from one shelf to the next. That allowed the SA1000 (22 inches deep) to fit in the shelf and not need to waste space for all the more shallow equipment. I could even put some shallow equipment (tube amps) on the back side of the monster receivers. It ends up being a production fitting deep and shallow things at the end but it all works out. I built a previous set that was against a wall and those I made 18" deep which worked for almost all my equipment.
Each section is 15.5" deep which allowed me to cut three strips from one sheet of plywood with some scrap to cut off the chewed up edges from the lumber yard. If I built two shelfs 31" deep I never would have gotten them in the basement much less been able to lift them or stand them up with the low ceilings. As it is they had to go through the patio door sideways and rotate and stand up in the tall area in the middle of the room then slide sideways into the soffit area. What a production. On Christmas day even. Its good to have guests with strong backs.
How to pick plywood. It depends on what your goal is. If this is going in a garage (that would be sad) then who cares. But assuming they are going in the house you need something with veneer ON BOTH SIDES. Often this means "Baltic birch" plywood. To most people that means $140 a sheet special order time. The $140 plywood usually has 15 or so layers and there are very few voids. Fortunately I found some $85 plywood at Home Depot that was veneer on both sides but only 5 or so layers. That was good enough for me. I bought 22 sheets. Later I found our I needed 5 more because I forgot to double the shelf count. But regardless, draw a plan and layout a cutting sheet so you can figure out how many sheets you need. A warning about $50 A/C plywood. It warps. You might need extra fixed shelves to keep it in line. Really, just don't go there.
View attachment 3386208View attachment 3386210View attachment 3386218
You also need some trim boards for the top, bottom, verticals and possibly the faces of the shelves. And some 2x4's for the base.
While you are there pick up a short piece of melamine shelf board with predrilled holes. I used that as a template to keep my holes aligned. There are 1000 other ways to do that. Live your life.
When getting shelf pins, get the "L" shaped ones, not the simple pins. The pins can drift out if your holes are loose. These are held in by the shelf and they have a hold so you can screw your shelf in place.
View attachment 3386227
Screws: 1-1/2" countersink with the T10 driver. Or what ever makes you happy.
Glue. Tight Bond 2 or 3. Or what ever makes you happy. And one of those awesome "glue bot" glue bottles. They make a great xmas present.
Continued. . .
