The Dreaded Grado Cracks of Doom

[boreas]

I've never tried a Grado of any sort but, over the years, I've accumulated three of them, all with busted styli. I have an F-3+, an XC+ P-mount and an MF3 which is either a P-mount or 1/2" if you have the NLA Grado kit for it.

I'd been thinking about trying the F-3+ but when I took a good look at it I saw that it had cracks running up both sides of the stylus receptacle. Bummer! So, the question is does this really matter? My guess is that it definitely does so the next question is whether or not it can be Super Glued or chemically welded with plexi cement. Again, my guess is no so I was wondering whether the MF3 with my home-made adapter. (see photo) is the right one to try. Any advice greatly appreciated.

John

 

[seminole54]

John

If you can show the F3+ so we can see the cracks, I am sure Marc will chime in. I thought he said in another thread that it wouldn't do any real harm. Let me know if you want to try a new stylus without going for the 8MZ I will point you to an F3+ stylus

Jack

 

[boreas]

Here's the photo. The crack is the same on both sides.

(Sorry for the glitched text.)

John

 

[seminole54]

John

Doesn't look all that bad. This includes what Marc said about them a couple of months ago.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=6530662

Jack

 

[marcmorin]

Yeah, it's a non-issue. Either one of us can send you a stylus to see how you like the sonic character before you jump into the 8MZ stylus. You'll notice the M series body you have has a thicker area there now. The F and G series were thin in material. The F and G series might ask to be loaded down from the "normal" 47K.......then again, they might not.

 

[boreas]

John

Doesn't look all that bad. This includes what Marc said about them a couple of months ago.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=6530662

Jack

Yeah, it's a non-issue. Either one of us can send you a stylus to see how you like the sonic character before you jump into the 8MZ stylus. You'll notice the M series body you have has a thicker area there now. The F and G series were thin in material. The F and G series might ask to be loaded down from the "normal" 47K.......then again, they might not.

Thanks, guys. I was thinking the way to get my feet wet would be to get a Blue from VoM. He has them for $40.00 I think. Then, if I ended up not liking it for some reason, I could send it down the road on a table or something.

John

 

[beej]

I'm also a member of the cracked Grado club. Been a bit reluctant to replace the stylus but will probably give it a shot now. Thanks for posting John and for the inside scoop, Marc

 

[ChairSpud]

Don't mean to rain on your parade but is my understanding the Grado cracks are not a good thing and from my experience can worsen with the removal and install new stylus. Sorry I can't find supporting documentation right now so just emailed Grado Labs to see what they say. Hopefully they will respond is OK because I too have a couple older cracked up Grados! Will post again if they reply.

Dave/ChairSpud

 

[marcmorin]

Don't mean to rain on your parade but is my understanding the Grado cracks are not a good thing and from my experience can worsen with the removal and install new stylus. Sorry I can't find supporting documentation right now so just emailed Grado Labs to see what they say. Hopefully they will respond is OK because I too have a couple older cracked up Grados! Will post again if they reply.

Dave/ChairSpud

You mean other than them trying to sell you a new cartridge. :thmbsp:

The original F and G bodies are thin there, the M, X, Z, and Prestige bodies all have an embossed area there. The original F(+) and G(+) styli (ie FTE+1 through F1+, GTE+1 through G2+) are a touch wider (read: red pubic hair) across the stylus assembly than the later ones and are kinda snug going into the later bodies. The inverse is true, puting an M through Prestige stylus into an F or G body is less snug (by a red pubic hair) I have several of the older bodies with this same crack including a Signature 2 body and they suffer no ill affects during playback. The styli don't want to fall out, they don't want to miss align.

 

[boreas]

You mean other than them trying to sell you a new cartridge. :thmbsp:

The original F and G bodies are thin there, the M, X, Z, and Prestige bodies all have an embossed area there. The original F(+) and G(+) styli (ie FTE+1 through F1+, GTE+1 through G2+) are a touch wider (read: red pubic hair) across the stylus assembly than the later ones and are kinda snug going into the later bodies. The inverse is true, puting an M through Prestige stylus into an F or G body is less snug (by a red pubic hair) I have several of the older bodies with this same crack including a Signature 2 body and they suffer no ill affects during playback. The styli don't want to fall out, they don't want to miss align.

Interesting stuff. My M body has those embossed areas and also the elongated mounting ears of the current series.

My concern about the cracks is that they may cause resonance in the body or allow the stylus carrier to resonate within the body. That's why I was considering gluing the cracks to eliminate resonance from the cracks.

John

 

[marcmorin]

Interesting stuff. My M body has those embossed areas and also the elongated mounting ears of the current series.

My concern about the cracks is that they may cause resonance in the body or allow the stylus carrier to resonate within the body. That's why I was considering gluing the cracks to eliminate resonance from the cracks.

John

Nah, no resonance there. At the very top of the stylus assembly where it butts into the top of the stylus pocket a little amount of blu-tac or similar substance is all you need. Regarding cart body resonance, there are some other areas to look at beyond those insignificant cracks. Potting the coils is one, a mounting plate for the body between it and the headshell. (that is arm, headshell dependant) I've made "intonating" plates for them to couple better to the AR XA/XB headshells, and I've made some for the generic bayonett types also. But I tune those by ear. Beatcomber and several other members here have those on their XA/XB tables.

 

[ChairSpud]

You mean other than them trying to sell you a new cartridge. :thmbsp:

I was thinking that too.

Just got a response back from Grado Labs - good news too

Please tell me if it's okay to use a Grado cartridge with cracks in
the plastic on each side where the stylus inserts and would using it
impair the performance?

it should work fine. the body has nothing to do with the overall performance

--
Thank You
The Grado Labs Customer Service Team

So you were right, I thought like Boreas that the cracks might cause resonance but seems that's not the case at all.

Dave/ChairSpud

 

[boreas]

Just got a response back from Grado Labs - good news too

Please tell me if it's okay to use a Grado cartridge with cracks in
the plastic on each side where the stylus inserts and would using it
impair the performance?

it should work fine. the body has nothing to do with the overall performance

--
Thank You
The Grado Labs Customer Service Team

So you were right, I thought like Boreas that the cracks might cause resonance but seems that's not the case at all.

Dave/ChairSpud

Thanks, Dave, Marc and all!

(Note to self: never try to second guess Marc. )
John

 

[marcmorin]

Thanks, Dave, Marc and all!

(Note to self: never try to second guess Marc. )
John

Thanks.......especially when it comes to Grado. Because I'm "head-masta-pimp" Would you like to try a stylus in one of those before you commit to "buy"