Prob a 40amp?, match it up with the correct package on amazon.
The Official SOTA Turntable Thread
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- sota star sapphire sumiko
sarlocho
New Member
Hello all. I'm a new Sota owner. Here is my Star III. It's not up and running yet. But hopefully soon with this Xenon tonearm I had waiting for the right table. When I purchased the table i drove with it with the screws that raise the platter off the bearing not fully in. Essentially they were just threaded in until they stopped. The platter wasn't moving but i now know that those screws are supposed to be threaded all the way in for transport. So im a concerned that the saphire bearing has been damaged. It spins freely and I can't hear of feel any friction but that is just by hand and ear. I tried a spin down test from 33.3 rpm and got about a minute which seems pretty short. My AR XA has a longer spin down time. Do any of you Sota owners have input on what the spin down time should be with a fully functioning saphire bearing or other ideas?
Thanks so much for any input.
Thanks so much for any input.
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Hi, I’m new here and just noticed this Sota thread. I’ve owned lp12’s forever but have always wanted to try a Sota. I have the opportunity to buy 2 different tables but have no idea what they are. I contacted Sota they were super nice but couldn’t tell me what the difference is between a mk1 through 4 and what “deluxe means. I gave them the serial numbers and was told the California oak table is a mk3 deluxe and the Illinois table serial numbers 100108 is a mk3 or 4 deluxe. Can anyone help me out the power supply between the black table and oak table are different. The black table power supply is the square one on top of the lid. Here are some pictures if anyone can help guide me, also what type of arm board is on the oak table. If it’s possible can anyone suggest one or the other from just picture assuming the both run the same, thank you very much Paul.
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sarlocho
New Member
From my very limited experience.
The Black one looks like it has the simple MDF armboard while the oak might have a cast aluminum armboard.
Do they come with the tonearms and cartridges?
Perhaps that should be the deciding factor. Whichever has the better arm or cartridge.
Or which one you like the looks of better? Are they owned by the same seller? If so perhaps you could ask them to swap to the tonearm and see armboard you like to the table you like.
The Black one looks like it has the simple MDF armboard while the oak might have a cast aluminum armboard.
Do they come with the tonearms and cartridges?
Perhaps that should be the deciding factor. Whichever has the better arm or cartridge.
Or which one you like the looks of better? Are they owned by the same seller? If so perhaps you could ask them to swap to the tonearm and see armboard you like to the table you like.
It looks like neither have the vacuum platter (if that is important to you) - they both have manual speed control which I found to be tricky with no easy speed reference (I added the Roadrunner to mine for this reason). I can’t tell if the natural oak has the upgraded armboard - if it does it’s a serious upgrade otherwise - I think the tables are a toss up - go with the one that has the best tonearm/cartridge combination.
sarlocho
New Member
What do you consider the upgraded arm board? The new phenolic reason or the cast aluminum? I have a cast aluminum on the table that i have posted about a few posts up the thread.
The one I received was Composite according to Donna - it was substantially heavier, smoother and thicker than the original wood one.
MrIgotNomoney
Well-Known Member
I’ve got a couple of these turntables the earlier one I think used a threaded rod from the springs that went down through the sub chassis, and it hung down far enough. You could get to it, get a washer and a nut on there to secure the suspension.
The newer one that I have the cap head, screw comes up from the bottom into the spring and then screws in there.
Those are real pain in the ass to get started. You stand the chance of pulling the spring down, possibly damaging your Spring while you’re trying to get that screw threaded from underneath and up into the spring.
I think when I redo my later turntable, I am going to use 1032 threaded rod or a cap head screw through the Spring and then pointing straight down to the sub chassis like the original older version.
With those pointing straight down, then I can with a little bit of pulling on the Spring and get the washer and nut on to secure the suspension at all four points.
So if I take new springs put a threaded rod or a caphead screw down through the spring so then I have a spring with a stud that reached down through the sub chassis then I can attach the washer nut and Level the suspension up.
I think it would be more secure and I could easily make micro adjustments to get the sub chassis level once the main three turntable feet are leveled out.
I don’t know why they ever changed the design, but the earlier table was so much easier to work on and the risk of cross threading the screw into a spring was zero.
Seems to me the suspension is not gonna care how it’s attached as long as it’s attached.. all the force is going to be pulling down either way..
In the original table, when I changed the springs out, it was a little tricky to get everything started, but after that, the micro adjustment parts of it were a piece of cake.
That table has been fine for the last dozen or so years.
My point is I don’t know why they changed. it is way more difficult to get started and I think harder to get set up.
I follow their recommendations after that take the armboard out the lead shot build up a weight of 2 pounds 14.9 ounces level up the suspension. Then do the math with the arm the arm board and the lead shot to be the equivalent of 2 pounds 14.9 ounces.
Or easier for me 1329 g