• The move to the new server is done. There are some software and database maintenance updates in process. This has us passing the hat around to help out. We appreciate any donations. Seriously, even a dollar helps. The payment page may be found here - https://www.audiokarma.org/support.html

The Official -Technics SL-1600/1700/1800- Owners Thread

pockets64 said:
ok, thanks ,had another look should be able to do it with a small G clamp without dismantling
Click to expand...
If you remove the e clip that holds the large gear on it will come off, the nut is what holds the clutch assembly together, so long as you don’t undo that nut you should be fine to remove it.
 
pockets64 said:
I ordered one of those from Poland a couple of days ago , will let you know how it fits when it turns up , am in the uk , Like the wire mesh method , tidy job , I temporarily fixed mine with some customized staples and used a soldering iron to melt them in to bridge the cracks , not pretty but looks like It'll do the job , did try superglue in the cracks but it wouldnt adhere .
Click to expand...

Eastham said:
If you remove the e clip that holds the large gear on it will come off, the nut is what holds the clutch assembly together, so long as you don’t undo that nut you should be fine to remove it.
Click to expand...

Also hoping that myself/my tech won't have to perform any intermediate to difficult disassembly. Nice to hear it can be done without doing so, but may go the wire mesh route as it's something I can confidently handle on my own. Looking forward to @pockets64's progress!
 
Having had another look ,you dont have to dismantle it any further than removing the cogs and carrier as it comes off in one unit and you can push on the new cog with a suitable tool, but the mesh option looks like a good fix ,did think about using a suitable washer and epoxy on mine to reinforce the staple fix .
 
Seems to have a bit higher wow and flutter now around ,0.08 was around 0.03 before rebuild , not sure why , will have a look at the bearing again and maybe its a bit out of line on the rotor board , ,nothing obvious .
 
Hello everyone, I disassembled the tonearm and i have a problem with this gear. Is the inner part of the gear with this brass lever supposed to rotate or is it fixed inside the gear? I have a big problem because the tonearm does not return automatically, it just rises and the plate continues to rotate. When i press the stop button after one or two attempts, the tonearm returns to the rest position and does not go down. The tonearm lift motor still works. Then i press the cueing button and the handle goes down.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2025-08-27 at 13.06.14.png
    Screenshot 2025-08-27 at 13.06.14.png
    497.6 KB · Views: 11
which model table, you should be able to find a service manual for it, sounds like you may have more than one issue with the mechanism .
 
SL 1700 MKII. It won't return the tonearm when it finishes a record, the tonearm just lifts up, the record keeps spinning. When I press the stop button once (sometimes twice) the tonearm returns but doesn't lower to the rest position. Then I press cueing and it in rests.
 
that part does have a clutch, try tightening the nut slightly ,also your belt maybe slipping clean the pulleys with isopryl alcohol and renew the belt , make sure motor is spinning , how is the gear that has a habit of cracking ?
 
Last edited:
picturesd said:
Hello everyone, I disassembled the tonearm and i have a problem with this gear. Is the inner part of the gear with this brass lever supposed to rotate or is it fixed inside the gear? I have a big problem because the tonearm does not return automatically, it just rises and the plate continues to rotate. When i press the stop button after one or two attempts, the tonearm returns to the rest position and does not go down. The tonearm lift motor still works. Then i press the cueing button and the handle goes down.
Click to expand...
Whatever yo do dont mess with that part, and over all: do no disassemble it. You will end up with a bunch of inservible parts.
 
Does anyone have a photo or video of how to set the cam gear to zero? When cleaning the gears, it seems I didn't set the cam gear to zero.
 
The small gear that tends to break is in excellent condition. I just need to set the CAM to zero. I hope that is my solution to the problem. Otherwise I bought the SL 1700MKI in like new condition and I really want everything to work. Thank you.
 
Think I saw it mentioned on a vid, try search for other vids, the arm mech is on the 1600 and 1700 mk2 , did you download the manual?
 

Technics SL-1700 Cueing Problem - NOT the belt

I have a Technics SL-1700 with a cueing problem. The cueing does not work under any circumstances. It's in the down position. If I lift the arm and move it over the platter, the table spins (as it should), but I can't get the arm to raise. If I move the arm to the inside of the platter, the...
audiokarma.org
Could be some relevant info here
 
Hello everyone! Got Technics SL-1800 MK2 today from a seller. It's Japanese 100V, and has been sold to me with the converter and Numark CC-1 cartridge. Seller stated everything is great with the turntable. However, after plugging it in at home I encountered two problems:

1) Loud "static" high-pitched broad spectrum pops. POPS! Very loud. Every 10-20 seconds. Not like regular vinyl pops/crackle. Weirdest thing - sometimes they just go away for good 4-5 minutes. But then return again. Very annoying. As far as I understand it's something like a capacitor discharge, but not sure.
2) Lack of high frequencies. They gradually go down around 10kHz, and then almost nothing. Even with +6 dB treble equalization on the amp.

I got another direct drive - Sony PS-X45, I've been using quite a while through Optimus STAV-3590 amp (just for the phono preamp, don't judge haha), and non of the issues are present with it, so it's not Optimus problem.

Asked seller. Seller hasn't responded yet.

Any suggestions what could be the problem? Is that something that's relatively easy to fix? Thank you!

UPD. Seller responded. DJ cartridges generally lacks high frequency, especially used styluses. Popping might be static electricity due to high Numark CC-1 gain (6 mV vs 2.8-3 mV for general cartridges). My preamp might overload and pop because of the static, because it's only designed for 2.8-3 mV input. I'll order different cartridge and see.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom