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The Realistic 42-2109, The Licorice Component

How do you feel about the 42-2109?

  • It's the greatest preamp in the whole world

    Votes: 2 33.3%

  • Meh...

    Votes: 1 16.7%

  • Garbage

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Never heard of it

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • Total voters
    6
  • Poll closed .
Wow, first time listening to this preamp. It’s really interesting how good it sounds. I’d like to live with it awhile before making any statements, but I’m certainly impressed. Is there anything that really needs to be replaced in here to make sure this doesn’t potentially cause any damage downstream to my other components?
 
I've been keeping my eye out for another one for a good price. Someone told me they run one of these for each channel for improved stereo separation.
 
I haven't posted in a while. I hadn't used mine for 10+ years. Plugged it in, still works great. I'm thinking it ain't broke...I'm running an Artdj pre on my other table with a 12v battery, lead acid. I just got a aa battery holder, holds 8, so I can try alkaline v lithium v lead acid. Starting to look like a rabbit hole. Also just bought a Dual 1219 that the platter spins when its plugged in, otherwise everything works. And I'm building a sub. Got to thin my collection, no more room for records unless...
 
1rpp.jpg 2rpp.jpg 4rpp.jpg 3rpp.jpg go fo it, the realistic 42-2101, 42-2101a and 42-2109 are all decent and worth upgrading. i've found the thick film metal ox resistors to work sound pretty good. i don't mind which ones ohmite, dale vishay etc. the FR series electrolytic caps sound decent and last LONG time ( sure you can use vishay muse or silmic ii) the 4.7 mf caps are your choice, they do change the sound a bunch, the carli from madisound fit good, the kemet from digi key fit, and if you want to get a big metal case then you can spend all the money on better caps. but i've found the clarity cap px series to do very good especially for the low cost. just get a good soldering iron and go for it!
 
I bought a 42-2109 5-6 years ago to serve as a backup(plus it was very cheap). I had no idea that it had such a fan club. When I first read about it here my memory was jogged that I had one in a box somewhere. Finally had reason to use it recently with a newer pre-amp that had no phono input. It worked and sounded very good. It will probably be my first re-cap project after I retire in a month. I believe all the info I will need is here in AK but it's scattered here and there in different threads. I need a Dummies Guide to re-capping a RS phono pre-amp LOL.
 
BobHol said:
I bought a 42-2109 5-6 years ago to serve as a backup(plus it was very cheap). I had no idea that it had such a fan club. When I first read about it here my memory was jogged that I had one in a box somewhere. Finally had reason to use it recently with a newer pre-amp that had no phono input. It worked and sounded very good. It will probably be my first re-cap project after I retire in a month. I believe all the info I will need is here in AK but it's scattered here and there in different threads. I need a Dummies Guide to re-capping a RS phono pre-amp LOL.
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Me too.
 
I've been reading this thread and other similar threads on AK and other forums. I was wondering how, or would, updating change the specs. The specs say the frequency response is 30-15,000. Would updating the components increase the frequency response? I've attached a list of the specs I lifted from another forum.

Stereo Pre-Amplifier
(420-2101A) Specifications Faxback Doc. # 40137


Sensitivity (for 200 mV output at 1 kHz, 50 K Ohms)
Phono............................................................... 2.5 mV

Output Level, 50 K Ohms Phono, 3 mV Input........................... 240 mV

Maximum Output Level at 1 kHz........................................ 6.0 V

Input Overload Level (for 1% THD) Phono............................. 100 mV

Signal to Noise Ratio Phono, 3 mV input.............................. 55 dB

Frequency Response.................................. +/3 dB: 30 - 15,000 Hz

RIAA Equaliztion................................................... +/-2 dB

THD at 200 mV Output.................................................. 0.5%

Stereo Separation at 1 kHz........................................... 50 dB

Impedance
Inputs............................................................ 55 KOhms
Outputs........................................................... 50 KOhms

Power Requirements..................... 120 volts AC, 60 Hz, 1.5 Watts Max.

Size.......................................... 50 (H) x 90 (W) x 120 (D) mm

(km-06/20/1997)
 
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Just got a Realistic 42-2109 about a week ago. Beautiful sound! Could have something to do with the $1.6K (list) .8 mV moving coil I have running straight into it, but still...wow!
 
A mate has experimented a fair bit with changing the 4.7uf cap in Realistic 42-2101A phonos.

My two favorites so far are Jupiter Copper Foil and Jantzen Silver bypassed with Russian K72-P6 Teflon caps. Just spectacular.

I suspect that Miflex KPCU would have been even with the Jupiters for a fraction of the cost though the money has been spent now ;)
 
I just picked up one of the 2101A units and think it sounds quite good for what I paid. Listening through it right now.
It seems a tad harsh and bright - maybe time will help there. Midrange does seem to have good detail.

Wondering how the 2109’s compare to it when both are stock, and which one sounds better once modified.
Any informative threads regarding thoroughly going through these and massaging ‘em to sweetness?
 
I believe it's also been discussed a bit over on Stereonet. One member ditched his genuine EAR 834P in favor of one, myself and mates have all ditched the Douk Tube Phonobox (834P copy) in favor as well.

My Valab LCR-1 exposes it's shortcomings (treble and bass extension) at a far higher price point. The Realistic is more musical though so every bit as enjoyable in its own way.

It's important to note that cap upgrades are needed for these to really shine.
 
After changing the .1uf and 4.7uf caps it has a lot of hum, but it was very quiet before. Why? I used Audiophiler 4.7 and they barely fit but the solder joints are good and I don’t see anything wrong. I did one a few weeks ago with small Wimas and it is very quiet.
 
Blackdog61 said:
After changing the .1uf and 4.7uf caps it has a lot of hum, but it was very quiet before. Why? I used Audiophiler 4.7 and they barely fit but the solder joints are good and I don’t see anything wrong. I did one a few weeks ago with small Wimas and it is very quiet.
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A mate of mine found that. He wrapped the caps in Dynamat Extreme and made sure that was grounded. Cleared up the hum. Also certain caps are more prone to hum than others. What did you use?

You can get away with 1uf in place of the 4.7uf. Suggest Russian KZK Orange Line caps ;)
 
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These barely fit inside the case and the hum is present with the cover on. That seems strange. There may be something to your experience because touching these makes the hum much worse so I’ll try some foil tape first and then dynomat if that doesn’t work. Dynomat may force them outside the case.
 
I don’t have dynomat but I wrapped the caps several times with electrical tape and then aluminum foil tape. Then, a bare 14g copper wire was wrapped around each cap and more electrical tape. Still, the hum. All the hot and ground connections to the board are good and I have good solder joints with no shorts. This thing sounded pretty good and quiet before I tore into it. Baffled, but I have other options so it will be put in the ‘someday’ pile.
 
Anyone know if the 42-2109 and it's siblings were sold over here in Europe in a version adjustedfor 220 volts?
 
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