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The restoration of a Yamaha CA-2000 (Japanese CA-2010)

Some more pictures of the end result. I also performed a LED conversion with a rectifier, a smoothing capacitor and five 560 Ohms resistors in order to feed the LED's 13,6 VDC and 20 mA. I think it's a little too green, so some light filter tweaking will be done.

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After this, I decided to test the phono section and found out I am missing the left channel completely :idea: On both Phono 1 and Phono 2. Must be something in the phono section. The only parts that weren't replaced are the 2SK100 dual J-Fets. Let's hope that one of those two is not defective, because they are impossible to find :yikes:

Back to the drawing board!
 
Cleaning the switch is a good idea but the real problem on these switches is coming from there :

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you can easely see dark "zone" who are really oxyded . This area should be very well cleaned, and if you do it well , you switch will no more give you troubles. All the 12 contacts deserve it

The only parts that weren't replaced are the 2SK100 dual J-Fets. Let's hope that one of those two is not defective, because they are impossible to find :yikes:

no
 
Glad you found the problem with the solder bridges. I know after l rebuilt my CA-2010 l had some intermittent channel dropout. I noticed l could get it to dropout if l pushed down on the heatsink which would flex the chassis slightly. Even though l had been over all solder joints in entire amp l found l had to resolder nearly every joint on the selector board even though they looked fine, has performed perfectly ever since.

You have obviously tracked your phono problem to the selector switch, my problem was on all inputs.
 
Oldsansui441 said:
Glad you found the problem with the solder bridges. I know after l rebuilt my CA-2010 l had some intermittent channel dropout. I noticed l could get it to dropout if l pushed down on the heatsink which would flex the chassis slightly. Even though l had been over all solder joints in entire amp l found l had to resolder nearly every joint on the selector board even though they looked fine, has performed perfectly ever since.

You have obviously tracked your phono problem to the selector switch, my problem was on all inputs.
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Yeah, I don't think it's the Input selector, because I have problem in both Phono 1 and Phono 2. So the problem can be anywhere in the phono section. I'll try to figure it out tonight. I suspect IC104, because all other components were replaced.

Oldsansui441 said:
Are you still using the original blue tinted screen with your new LED's?
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Yes, I still use it. I will try to get it as close as possible to the original color. Which is greenish due to the yellow/orange light and the blue tinted screen. But the LED's I have are too yellow, so I will add some pink and orange LED filters I have. Used it also in the B-2. Works like a charm.
 
This baby sings again, all problems are solved. The Phono section left channel not working was a PITA to find out. It turned out to be a invisible crack in a signal pad trace, right after the Phono selector switch. What are the odds :rolleyes: I now also learned more about troubleshooting and I ended up with a nice Picoscope :D Thanks @Oilmaster for guiding me trough this whole project.

And man, this thing sings :music: The phono section is dead silent, sounds warm and presents lots of detail. It is Phono wise actually better than the B-2 / L-1000C combo in my opinion :eek:

Anyway, this unit is defenitely a keeper :bigok:

Here a picture of the cracked trace (you can't see it). Between Phono selector switch signal in and the left circle I measured 0,7 Ohm and between Phono selector switch signal in and the circle on the right I measured 200 kOhm.

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The bypass installed:

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I also did some LED color filtering. The light color is now exactly as the original:

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The end result:

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All good in the end :)
Good to see this dead puppy back in full glory; as it should !

I don't regret selling it to you knowing it will make you happy for many years to come and the education journey it provided.
The irony being that I bought this unit initially as a spare parts unit for my other two units, while living in Japan, and I haven't rebuild either one so far....

Amongst the 100+ vintage amps I own, the CA-2000/2010 is one of the best BJT amps to have. Period !!
 
Oilmaster said:
All good in the end :)
Good to see this dead puppy back in full glory; as it should !

I don't regret selling it to you knowing it will make you happy for many years to come and the education journey it provided.
The irony being that I bought this unit initially as a spare parts unit for my other two units, while living in Japan, and I haven't rebuild either one so far....

Amongst the 100+ vintage amps I own, the CA-2000/2010 is one of the best BJT amps to have. Period !!
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They definitely are some beautiful pieces and class" A " to boot.
 
Mr. Yamaha said:
If you need a list or some tips, let me know :p:p
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Hi!

Sorry, I'm new new here, just got my hands on a 2010 and was wondering if you would be kind enough to share the list of components to replace with their replacements. I have enjoyed this thread and l love to restore old equipment.

This I'll be my first amp of this magnitude/complexity, and would appreciate the help

Thanks

-Luis
 
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This is going to be very helpful to me. Specifically thanks for the pictures.
 
Mr. Yamaha said:
Some more pictures:

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i wouild have loved to be able to replave everything like you did but i wont be able to afford that. i already have all the electrolytic caps but im trying to sediced if I should also do those transistors. how should i test to determine if they are good or not?
 
Dadbeh said:
i wouild have loved to be able to replave everything like you did but i wont be able to afford that. i already have all the electrolytic caps but im trying to sediced if I should also do those transistors. how should i test to determine if they are good or not?
Click to expand...
I did not test the transistors beforehand, I just replaced them with modern subsitutes. But, you can test them with a cheap chinese component tester. I used one to be sure on pin outs and polarity.
 
Hi All,
I'm a new member and have a question. Please help or point me to the right thread. I've searched and couldn't find the right info. I recently bought a CA-2000 unit from Japan. The power switch was broken and bent to one side during shipping. My question is what is the simplest route to get to that switch? I need to take it out, bend it straight back and replace the broken cover.
 

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