I have the stock set-on cover as well. It's in good shape but I rarely use it. Very 1970's smoked tint on mine. I added tiny adhesive-backed rubber bumpers for the corners. I rarely use it.
The SL-110/Sl-1100 and SP owners club.
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jcidave
Well-Known Member
I like operating dust covers . So I fabricated this rig and always play with the cover down. If your cover is home-made, you did a better job than I did with mine.
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AuralAbrasns
Member
Does anyone make replica wood tonearm boards? I like the look of the factory wood vs the aluminum.
Massive Lee
Active Member
I will have one CNC machined from 1/2" precious and dense wood as soon as I find a decent tonearm. My current original tonearm has some slack on the lower bearing and I can't undo that pesty screw which seems to be very problematic for many. I have an eye on some Grace 545 but I can't convince myself to pay current high prices for what used to be cheap...
BTW somebody local has some for sale. 120$cad for skirt and armboard. That's roughly $85usd
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BTW somebody local has some for sale. 120$cad for skirt and armboard. That's roughly $85usd
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bob smog
Creebling at the Turntables
Here's one I used to own. Sold, but I kept the arm. Nice deck overall.
So…15 years later, I gotten back on the direct drive train. I have an SP-25 that I’m loving, but I need a deck for the basement system. Thinking about getting another SL-1100/SL110 or maybe an SL-120. I have a Fidelity Research FR-24 MKII that needs a home.
lissenup
Super Member
I’ve owned this SP10 MK2 for about 10 years. Cosmetically it is in almost perfect condition. I just recently recapped the power supply and all 4 boards in the motor unit. I installed a fresh thrust pad and serviced the brake mechanism at the same time. The unit is working beautifully and sounds wonderful.
The plinth is homemade using 5 layers of Baltic birch and clad with IKEA Lysekil panels. The side panels are covered with a vinyl wrap. Arm is a Jelco 10” 750E. I will be installing my Denon 103 cartridge in a few days. The mat is a TTWeights alloy mat. When I got the TT it was housed in a SH-10B3 obsidian plinth which now houses the SP10R I purchased when they first came out a few years ago.
The plinth is homemade using 5 layers of Baltic birch and clad with IKEA Lysekil panels. The side panels are covered with a vinyl wrap. Arm is a Jelco 10” 750E. I will be installing my Denon 103 cartridge in a few days. The mat is a TTWeights alloy mat. When I got the TT it was housed in a SH-10B3 obsidian plinth which now houses the SP10R I purchased when they first came out a few years ago.
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bob smog
Creebling at the Turntables
Massive Lee
Active Member
I believe that the weak point of the SL1100 is its tone arm. Fit something better and you will fully enjoy that SL1100.
Well open the damn box already...
bob smog
Creebling at the Turntables
Going to make a wooden arm board and use an Audio Fidelity FR-24 Mkii tonearm I have.
Hi all, new 1100a owner here with a question. I recently picked up an 1100a locally after running a 1700 mk1 for the last year and being very impressed by it. The 1100a runs well but really needs a lot of love cosmetically as well as a refresher of the basic stuff (lube, pot cleaning etc). One thing that I'm stumped on and could use some help with though is cueing - the tonearm drops faster than it should using the cueing lever. Since this table doesn't rely on the typical piston/silicone oil set up I want to lean on the knowledge of folks that know this table better than I do. Is lowering speed controlled by the grease on the arm slider, or is it regulated by that funky circular cam (?) that rotates with the arm?
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
jcidave
Well-Known Member
I have tackled this fast cueing problem by applying high viscosity silicone gear grease directly to the shaft that moves up and down in the collar that mounts to the motorboard. This is all done externally with no dis-assembly. I use 500,000 cst grease, but I think 300K should work as well. I use a tiny eyeglass flat blade screwdriver to place one or two dabs of the grease on the shaft right where it enters the collar. It will take some time for the grease to fully coat the shaft and work its way into the collar. I'm talking several weeks, but it should work for you as it has for me. Slow, but for me, better than tearing things apart.
Thanks, I appreciate the reply. That’s where my head was at as well and I went that route first but I think I went overboard on the 500,000 cst and it basically glues that shaft stuck. No harm done as I can clean that up and go easier with it, but just wanted to check and see if there was a more “official” way to do it. Manual of course was no help… I guess I have a project for tomorrow
Hmm. Keep the Mayware that’s been on there for 50 years (and which is missing the antiskate weight/string assembly) or install the rebuilt Linn Akito arm that seems to have almost exactly the same geometry?